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Home > Technical Chat > Tie bar droppers/ Anti-dive brackets?????

Evoderby

224 Posts
Member #: 9987
Senior Member

Amsterdam

The Owens tie bar / rod joint seems a sturdy piece of kit...

....and let's face it, we're all suckers for nice and shiny parts that are non-standard!*wink*


carl talbot

326 Posts
Member #: 1323
Senior Member

I've used Anti Dive on all Front engine RWD Hillclimb cars to National Championship winning level .
The usual reason for Anti Dive is to keep Aero Package stable .
I never had the benefit of any decent aero[much like a Mini] but found huge benefits in being able to run much softer front springs as the springs weren't compressed so hard under braking [running slicks]
Roll could then be finely controlled with ARB.
Definitely worth doing , but make it adjustable .
The Endaf ones that Paul S pictured look nice , presumably adjusted with washers/shims


Mowen123

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151 Posts
Member #: 5593
Advanced Member

Taunton, South West

Thanks, that old thread is useful, good link Paul :)

Carl,

It's good to hear from someone who's used it successfully.

I'm glad you think it's worth doing, and like I said I will incorporate an adjustable mounting system into the subframe I'm building, obviously allowing the standard position to be used as well. That way I can always revert back to standard arrangement if I find no benefit from it all.

I actually spoke to Endaf a few days ago and he said he tried and tested brackets of different heights until he had the optimum setup - he didn't mention anything about them being adjustable though.

Going off onto a slight tangent, but with regard to the softer front springs....what is the benefit of this? I think I'm right in saying Wil H also used yellow dots on the rear and softer red dots on the front...is that right Wil?

Cheers

Mike

Edited by Mowen123 on 15th Jan, 2014.


Mowen123

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151 Posts
Member #: 5593
Advanced Member

Taunton, South West

oh just checked Wil's website and it appears i'm confused. It's the other way round, yellow dots on the front and softer red dots on the rear. now i'm confused


wil_h

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9258 Posts
Member #: 123
Post Whore

Betwix Harrogate and York

Because of the way the top arm locates with the spring, as you lower the front the spring rate drops. I had to use the yellow dot on the front to keep roll in check.

I also ended up fitting ARBs to help. for a race car it's still pretty soft. Although my car is significantly ligher than a road car.

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

www.twin-turbo.co.uk

On 2nd Jan, 2013 fastcarl said:

the design shows a distinct lack of imagination,
talk about starting off with a clean sheet of paper, then not bothering to fucking draw on it,lol

On 20th Apr, 2012 Paul S said:
I'm mainly concerned about swirl in the runners caused by the tangential entry.


Mowen123

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151 Posts
Member #: 5593
Advanced Member

Taunton, South West

Right ok, I didn't know that. Is there a reason for not using yellows on the rear as well? I know the rear ARB would limit the roll, but would yellow dots have complimented it?


On 16th Jan, 2014 wil_h said:
Because of the way the top arm locates with the spring, as you lower the front the spring rate drops. I had to use the yellow dot on the front to keep roll in check.

I also ended up fitting ARBs to help. for a race car it's still pretty soft. Although my car is significantly ligher than a road car.


miniracer

25 Posts
Member #: 10295
Member

Any updates on this? does anyone know how far (mm) to lower the ball joint and caster arm pivot point? - interesting thread would love to hear some more feedback

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