RTS clutch
Turbo Mini Forums

Since the blue dot pressure plate is in excellent condition, i'm going to use that as the basiest of the RTS build with an additional 998 pressure ring.

Already stripped the 998 pressure ring out so it now time to start with the blue dot.

Hopefully Sprocket will be able to assist with the build but understand he's made busy at the moment.

On 8th Dec, 2013 lee.pb said:
AP clutch removed from mini:


Spare clutch:


Can the spare clutch be used with the AP for a RTS.

What the mind can conceive the mini can achieve
MITP 2012 17.01 seconds 1/4 mile against "The Don"
MITP 2013 16.83 seconds 1/4 mile

yeh!

Just reading up on rts clutches.
I have two very clutch set ups in the barn but unsure what they are.
One has a dark blue dot on it.
The other doesn't have any on it but the engine it's on is 1275 metro I belive.

Any ideas what the dark blue one could be?
Also is there a chart of what set ups should cope with what?

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985

measure the tickness of the springs,

they range from 1.65mm for a 998, top around 2.1-2.2 for 1275's to around 2.4 for the turbo one, and then on to 2.7ish for the uprated clutches.

two 1275 springs should easily cope with 200hp

Thanks Joe that's great. I'll have a measure up.

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985

It's hard to measure the springs as it seems to give slightly different reading depending on where you measure!?
It seems I have one at about 2.35mm and the other at about 2.5mm
So I'm guessing 1275 and turbo springs? Hopefully that'll hold!! Getting fed up of the clutch slipping every time I go out in it. Really ruins the fun!

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985

I also seem to be struggling to find any 11mm bar for the spacers.
Would 10mm or 12mm be OK to use?

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985

And 10 mm drilled to 11?

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018

Isn't it ideally 11mm OD with enough ID for a m8 bolt?

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985

12mm turned down?

If they are too big the wire rings won't go over. If they are too small you will end up with uneven clamping I think.

OK

Would this be OK then just drill out the centre to suit?

http://www.metalandplastic.co.uk/mild-stee...300mm-1958.html

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985

How will you drill that perfectly in the centre?

Probably won't.
I'm struggling to find any tube that's the right size.
Would stainless steel tube be OK?

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985

It dosent matter too much what it's made off, as the spring is pulling on the bolt head, the spacer is just to set the height of the bolt.

Edited by Joe C on 8th May, 2017.

I'm more concerned about locating everything centrally to keep as much of the original balance somewhere near true.

Each to their own i supose

yeah, really you want to drill it on a lathe to get it central.

I used 2mm wall 12mm OD tube and turned it down to 11mm as 12mm would not locate correctly when putting it together.

Might have some tube left somewhere.

I might have some 11mm somewhere chap. Will have a look.

If the others haven't got any just use a seller that still stocks the old imperial sizes and buy 7/16" round bar. There are plenty on eBay still, ie, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281923999444?var=580895952683

But, as already said, you really want the hole(s) bored in a lathe to make sure they are central and also the ends faced off in a lathe to make sure they are parallel and perpendicular.

7/16" is 11.1mm

EDIT -

Or better still buy 7/16" OD CDS tube like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Steel-Pipe-Tube-...cCSqiO2ljwvjLoA

Unfortunately they are out of stock for the 16SWG (which would have been very close to 8mm bore) but even the 14SWG would only need a little bit of enlarging to make 8mm. I would still do it in a lathe though to keep everything straight and square.

Edited by Rod S on 8th May, 2017.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

OK thanks for the help chaps.

My dad's mate is a engineer so I have access to a lathe.

Pm me jonny if you do mate. :)

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985

I don't, sorry. Although it might be at work so I'll have a look there tomorrow.

OK I've got the flywheels apart and tapped it ready for new bolts.
I've just ordered some 11mm bar, which I can then get drilled out on a lathe to 8mm.

No I've git the med lightweight flywheel, do u need to machine the lugs so it sits flat, like in the previous veto flywheels?
I'm sure I read something about doing that on the rts set up?

Thanks
Josh

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985

I've not bothered, I think the lugs are reduced hight anyway on the med and mini spares ones.

Same as above here and mine feels all good.