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Home > A-Series EFI / Injection > DC Motor Control from ECU ???

Rod S

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Colin,

Please try to stick with metric, it's what we work in as engineers, I have to get my calculator out when you quote "1.5hp".....

Your figures are correct but I guess the point Paul is trying to show is that it doesn't need 1.12KW to circulate an adequate amount of water through the engine with a reasonably designed impellor.

If it really requires 1.12KW then how do the aftermarket pumps with really crap impellor designs actually work ???

I've worked on some fairly big pumps in my time - 6 MegaWatt ones pumping 5 tonnes per second at 155bar - so I know what a proper impellor and inlet diffuser looks like.

Rod.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


stevieturbo

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On 10th Nov, 2013 Sprocket said:
working back from a 125amp draw on my starter motor at 11.5v would confirm the 1.4KW but remember that when the alternator is producing, the voltage is ~14.5v so urrent will be more like 95amps at full load. also taking into consideration the pump power absorption without the fan has been estimated at 1.5hp which is more like 75amps at 14.5v

But then you already know this :)


125A to turn the engine over....

It would be one hell of a water pump to need 125A to drive it !

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will


Sprocket

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On 10th Nov, 2013 Rod S said:
Colin,

Please try to stick with metric, it's what we work in as engineers, I have to get my calculator out when you quote "1.5hp".....

Your figures are correct but I guess the point Paul is trying to show is that it doesn't need 1.12KW to circulate an adequate amount of water through the engine with a reasonably designed impellor.

Rod.


Rod, as an Engineer you should be able to work with any type of unit *wink* Its just convenient to use one or the other which sometimes just is not the case. Complain about it or get on with it, it's still the same thing.

Since the subject originaly started with the suggestion that the mechanical pump and fan saps power from the engine, that KAD have measured this on their dyno, and that figure is quoted in horsepower, is why I state the power absorption figure in horsepower, and the only reason.

As a general rule 0.75kw is roughly 1 horsepower (for ease of conversion)

On 26th Oct, 2004 TurboDave16v said:
Is it A-Series only? I think it should be...
So when some joey comes on here about how his 16v turbo vauxhall is great compared to ours, he can be given the 'bird'...


On 26th Oct, 2004 Tom Fenton said:
Yep I agree with TD........


Sprocket

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On 10th Nov, 2013 stevieturbo said:



On 10th Nov, 2013 Sprocket said:
working back from a 125amp draw on my starter motor at 11.5v would confirm the 1.4KW but remember that when the alternator is producing, the voltage is ~14.5v so urrent will be more like 95amps at full load. also taking into consideration the pump power absorption without the fan has been estimated at 1.5hp which is more like 75amps at 14.5v

But then you already know this :)


125A to turn the engine over....

It would be one hell of a water pump to need 125A to drive it !


You obviously have not understood my post

On 26th Oct, 2004 TurboDave16v said:
Is it A-Series only? I think it should be...
So when some joey comes on here about how his 16v turbo vauxhall is great compared to ours, he can be given the 'bird'...


On 26th Oct, 2004 Tom Fenton said:
Yep I agree with TD........


Jawd

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Sleaford Lincolnshire

Hi Sprocket
My thoughts on your subject
Use the existing mini parts as you basis
For the design
I.e physical pump size and speed (we know this or it is easy to work out) apply motor speed or faster to the model to increase cooling if required
I would use a speed controller from a electric model car as some of these are now running 750 amps duty cycle or more on 7.4 volts (my son races internationally)
You would need to input a common radio control signal to the speed controller which can be programmed to suit your requirements via a laptop
Hope this helps
Jawd


Jawd

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Something LIKE this

Www.hobbywing.com

Edited by Jawd on 11th Nov, 2013.


Paul S

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We have one of those cars, the amps they draw is beyond belief. However, the circuits are overkill and do not interface with what I'm trying to do.

At the most, the pump needs to push at a maximum of 1 litre/second. No need to pump any more as the radiator will not perform any better if you do.

Assuming that the head loss through the system is, at worst, 1 Bar, then the water power needs to be 100W. Taking into account pump and motor efficiency then we are probably talking around 250W electrical power, approx. 20A depending on voltage. This follows others experience using the Meziere pump.

The maximum capability of the motor has no bearing on the amps required to drive the pump. However, the big motor will need a "kick" to get it rolling, so I expect to have to put some high duty cycle numbers in the table, just above idle, so that a quick blip of the throttle, once running, will get the pump turning.

Latest schematic based on using a spare injector output:



The biggest cost of this is going to be the enclosure and connectors. The component cost is beer money.

Edited by Paul S on 11th Nov, 2013.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Joe C

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Carlos Fandango

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is using a starter motor a good idea?

I'm thinking in terms of turns per volt ratio and magnetic core flux density... if these are both quite low will this not be inefficient.

could there be an issue where you find you have a sudden point where the motor turns on and goes above the required output?

basically should you be looking at a motor of a more suitable size.

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/



Paul S

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Let's be clear that this motor is nothing like a conventional mini starter motor. The Toyota starters are internally geared at about 4:1. They must run up to about 8000rpm to crank the engine over at 200rpm.

The motor itself is quite small at only 65mm diameter.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Rod S

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On 10th Nov, 2013 Sprocket said:

Rod, as an Engineer you should be able to work with any type of unit *wink* Its just convenient to use one or the other which sometimes just is not the case. Complain about it or get on with it, it's still the same thing.


Colin, you are absolutely right....
I'm so old I can use both, but I really prefer metric (SI) - it's so much simpler.
And I like complaining *happy*

Paul, as I mentioned earlier, starter motors are not designed to be efficient so I have some sympathy with Joe's comments.
They are designed for maximum torque for a short period of time.
The high speed (motor) geared ones will obviously be better than the older designs but they will still be compromised on magnetic core size just to keep the weight down and hence why they are not 100% rated.

But if all your other calculations come good, it shouldn't run too far into the in-efficiency region.

Let's see some results....


EDIT - and Colin, I'm not suggesting the KAD figures are wrong (whichever units we prefer to use) but more to the point that the power absorbtion figures simply aren't required so are a waste.
Drive a pump through a belt so it matches engine speed, and design the impellor/housing so it works well at low speed, is just throwing away power (and creating additional heat) at high speed.

Edited by Rod S on 11th Nov, 2013.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


evolotion

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On 10th Nov, 2013 Rod S said:

Paul can't do that (easily) as the negative side of the motor windings are connected to the case.


feeling a bit special now i never even considered that. Reason i brought it up is most (all?) solid state controlled devices with heavy current draw in the automotive world seem to be switched on the ground side, so suitable drivers seem to be a bit more plentifull.

turbo 16v k-series 11.9@118.9 :)

Denis O'Brien.


Paul S

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OK, so before I start cutting metal to make the motor mount, can anyone recommend a suitable motor, at least 500W and 5000rpm.

Or would I have more success looking for hen's teeth????

Edited by Paul S on 12th Nov, 2013.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Rod S

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On 12th Nov, 2013 Paul S said:
OK, so before I start cutting metal to make the motor mount, can anyone recommend a suitable motor, at least 500W and 5000rpm.

Or would I have more success looking for hen's teeth????


As rare as hen's teeth, probably at the price of a stater motor but they do exist.

One bit of engineering I used to be into when I was a lot younger was 5" gauge railways. Specialist 12V traction motors were (back then at least) available in 250, 500 and 750W versions. But not cheap...

Another one favoured by model engineers was the Sinclair C5 motor but I think it was only 250W

A final possibility is things like motability scooters / wheelchairs etc. (although a lot of them will be 24V) but should readily be available secondhand.


But, as I said before, although a starter motor will have a small magnetic core (and as Joe says, probably a poor turn per volt ratio), if you're not going to load it up to the very high torque it was designed to produce (for short periods of time) then you may not reach magnetic saturation or lack of back EMF in the windings. And the geared ones, with the motors running at much higher speeds, will be more efficient anyway

ie, if you are only using 1/3 - 1/2 of it's potential output, it may well be fine. Try it, and monitor its temperature, a very simple way of measuring electrical and magnetic in-efficiency.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Paul S

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Thanks Rod.

Right, off I go, G-Code in hand.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Paul S

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No going back now *smiley*

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Rod S

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Good start...

Although I'm not familiar with MS3, I assume you can log the PWM generated value as well as all the others from the engine based on your table.

If so, it should soon be obvious what the actual power required is.

Looking at the Meziere website (that Evoderby first mentioned) it seems they can cool a few zillion horsepowers with just under 20 Amps and some flowrate in units that Colin would need to explain to me (.....only joking Colin).

From their pictures I would think the motor they use is a permenant magnet type. The motor you've pulled out of a starter motor is 99% sure to be series wound.
Torque vs current characteristics are different from what I remember (most of my best knowledge is obviously 3 phase AC and large) but I still don't think it will be a problem at your anticipated low power level.

But once you know the actual power (from the PWM) it would be easy to choose an alternative motor if required.

From a mechanical point of view, I think your biggest loss will be with a Vee belt drive.

If this works out I would suggest switching to a small, thin and narrow polydyne Vee. Machine your own pulleys.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Jawd

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Paul
I would look at adapting a brushless motor and speed controller from the latest RC Cars and perhaps using a reduction gearbox to drive the existing mini waterpump.
A small device to convert a ECU signal to a signal the speed controller needs would be very simple to build.
But good luck with your project which I will watch with great interest
Jawd


Paul S

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Slight change of plan.

The MS mainboard I'm planning on using was built without the injector drivers. I've got all the components to add the injector circuits from the original kit, but there is about 30 of them *frown*

So, I'm going to use a MS3X output instead and will add the extra transistor and resistor to the controller circuit:



Rod, as you say, we should be able to get a idea of the power requirement from the duty cycle. We will need some long private roads to get some steady state conditions at high speed to dial it all in though *happy*

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


jbelanger

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Paul,

The MS3X PWM outputs are ground switching outputs that can handle more current that a ZTX450 (up to 3A). So you can go back to the previous diagram (actually you'd need a pull up resistor if you wanted to use the NPN transistor with the MS3X outputs).

Jean

http://www.jbperf.com/


Paul S

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Bracket/End Cover now finished:



Parcel Farce just delivered a package of electrickery bits *smiley*

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Joe C

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Carlos Fandango

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THAT is a nice bit of bracketry!

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/



Paul S

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On 10th Nov, 2013 Rod S said:
Mounting - ideally on a purpose made PCB (we can think about that later) but the main thing is to support the legs relative to the bolt/heatsink hole so, for a test, what I would suggest is a bit of veroboard with a nice slab of 1/8" (3mm) aluminium down one side - visualise the standard MS3 board and its simple heatsink but make it larger. And remove the copper from the veroboard where the bolts go through.


How the fook do you drill veroboard without it snapping.......Grrrrrrrrrrr

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Rod S

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On 15th Nov, 2013 Paul S said:
How the fook do you drill veroboard without it snapping.......Grrrrrrrrrrr


Really carefully I guess *happy*

I hate the stuff, I only ever use it for prototyping, once I know a circuit works, either veroboard or breadboard, I KiCad it and get a proper PCB made in HK/China for very little cost.

Seriously though, you need a really sharp drill if you want to enlarge holes in VeroBoard, and go through slow at a high drill speed.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Paul S

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Sorted now. I was milling off the copper then drilling.... not good.

Drilled first and then milled off the copper. No problem. Then realised that I did not need to mill off all the copper.......Doh.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Paul S

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Circuit built:



Some nice thick copper bus-bars run from the connectors to the MOSFETs.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."

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