Chalkie's Sc Small Bore Build.
Turbo Mini Forums

A couple more braces before you cut anymore ( perhaps towards the gearstick / handbrake area), then tack them all in and recheck the door gap.

Edited by PhilR on 3rd Feb, 2015.

Phil door gaps fine keep dropping do in every now and then but will brace it abit more tomorrow props do the other door aswell then cross them over

Didn't see you're last post about the sub-frame. are you doing a half floor of just the front footwell?

If the sections you are welding are not connected, then don't cut out more than you need to in one go. If you need to cut a lot more out then try to find pictures of other peoples bracing. Best to over do the bracing then it leaves you free to do it in the order you choose.

Edited by PhilR on 3rd Feb, 2015.

I gotta do Inner flinch, half floor, rear subframe mount and door step

okay ill get some more box secetion tomorrow

Got alot more bracing in today







Then welded a new bit into the shock mount.



but now gotta take on this lot





gotta get this lot into the above any tips?



so help be great thanks
Stephen

So is this enough bracing now? gotta add one or 2 more but is this good enough?









doors still fit same as they did day i brought the car odd either side haha gaps still measure the same

Evening guys


Got my Block back from the Machine Shop today.

What great service from Automotive Services in Northampton. Ill get some pictures up now of the block just debating myself on the colour at the moment.







Going for the Kent MD276 Cam shaft.
202 Head with twin cams

year after running engine in fixing issue with it going to go

Podifold (Maybe)
m45 charger running around 12psi of boost and fuel injection
on a 295 head

so we'll see as we progress

Thanks
Stephen

IMO the 274 would make a better boosted cam.

Just an observations but won't your centre strap needs to be wider and have a groove machined in or tangs to hold the thrusts in place? Mine does.

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!

Ha, loving the bracing. Got a bit out of hand with the welder?

Have a look at Pauls thread it shows the groove needed and iirc the 1275 and 998 straps are different

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!

There's several ways to do it. I've filed a groove on the block before and put them in upside-down.

This is a 998 block and a 998 centre main. I'm confused :(

This is a 998 block and a 998 centre main. I'm confused :(

There's a tang on one half of the thrust bearing that locates in a slot on the cap. When you machine a 998 cap down you have to delete that slot, so the bearing is now free to rotate more than intended. This isn't a problem with a 1275 cap as don't machine the slots out of the cap.

i was also advised to use the md274 cam from the few short runs ive had im impressed with the off boost torque if it was rubbish id certainly know running the clubman ratios and 2.95 FD low end torque is where its at for me then boost takes over for the top end

awesome idea on the filling for thrusts could also file the cap rather than block as then you can put it in the vise (soft jaws)to make it easier slot orientation dosent matter any really so why not put if where its easy to file

Will the 274 be okay on Na set up though I'm bedding the engine in na first then going boosted

I have an update!

so I was trawling Ebay a while back after reading Paul S recent project I brought a Bare MPI manifold gave it a quick test fit in a hollow engine in the car.


Clearance? not much


Front Shot



But the biggest part of this so far is Another Paul S purchase from him.













Incase you don't know what this is. Its the m24 Eaton supercharger

SPEC

Model Number: m24
Displacement per revolution, Liters: .393L
Displacement per revolution, Cubic Inches: 24
Sustained RPM: 15,000

weight: 4,8 kg
max. pressure ratio: 2,0 Bar
Max. RPM 17.000 (18.000)
pumps at highest rpm at 1,8 Bar so about 13psi: 380 m³ / h


Now just need to work out what size pulley I will need to get it down to 10psi as ill be running 9:1 comp ratio with intercooler

Thanks
Stephen

I've done some quick calcs.

Assuming 1030cc engine, 40 Deg C after intercooler intake temp and 0.7 Barg boost, then you need to run the blower rotors at 2.085:1. That will run the blower rotors at 15,637 rpm at your 7500rpm engine limit.

As the blower is internally geared at 1.93:1, your pulley ratio needs to be just 1.08:1. So the blower pulley will need to be nearly as big as the crank pulley.

How big is your crank pulley?

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."

Paul if i have worked this out right I hope


taking a standard 998 damper pulley I have 120.73mm and current SC pulley at 52.95mm

so 120.73mm @ 1 rotation = 52.95 @ 2.28 rotations

In your calculation your saying I need

120.73mm : 1 rotation BP to go to 1.08 ratio on the SC Pulley that would make the pulley 121.55mm

so that would then roughly if ive worked it out right

120.73mm @ 1 rotation = 121.55mm @0.993 Rotations

so at 7500 rpm that works out on SC pulley to do 7450.63RPM


So that is my go at maths and using a site for pulley sizing

just to be pedantic all measurements taking at 20degree's

Very interesting build. I wonder if the fuel injection will solve the supercharger's drinking problem.

On 18th Nov, 2014 D4VE said:
went down to my local hydraulics place and he gave me a suitable replacement larger nipple

Ummm... if you use a bottom pulley of 120.73 mm, that at 1.08:1, the blower pulley would need to be 111.78.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."