Turbo Cooper - floor repairs
Turbo Mini Forums

some nice little touches here, i do like the damper pully 36-1 cutting tool

how have you attached the big silicone 90 to the top of the manifold?

edit:. does the ms2 use the standard sensors from the spi? never really looked into it

what fuel pressure does it run ? its 1 bar for the spi isnt it?

Edited by Brett on 11th Jul, 2014.

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

Cheers for your comments guys I'm making most of this up as I go along, so please also tell me if anything I attempt is a dumb idea.

Looks tidy, I could still do with a better clamp tbh, I had an old gasless mig which died, got a free 150T that needed some serious love and a new case, and combined the two haha. I picked up a different type of PSU, i can tweak the output voltage but I still think it needs a better motor really.

Edited by PhilR on 16th Jul, 2014.

excellent mate, its nice to see the custom parts and tools it shows that not everyone is purely copying whats already been done
my mig welder has turned into quite a franken welder aswell,
the wire feed on mine is useless at the minute but i think its alittle past its best to warrant spending money on it ( its a 20+ yo clarke) and is not a high powerd unit

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

I've changed direction with this slightly. I've had a rethink about some of the work I've done and I'm not happy with the way I'd pocketed the 998 block, so I've gone back to the 1275 block. I was expecting the machining costs to really hurt but I think I've gotten of lightly:

Re-bore - £80
Crank regrind - £45
Hone mains - £30
Centre main strap - £ree !

To keep the new parts costs down I bought some std 21253 pistons and machined the dishes out. I made a jig from scraps and my die grinder:



Pistons went from 8.4cc dish to 11.5cc which should give me a CR of slightly under 9:1. I'm really chuffed with how they came out.



Took an old bottle jack and some more scraps and made a mini bench press to remove the gudgeon pins. Like the piston jig, it's not pretty, but it did the job

This week, my engine work has really bottomed out. I've put effort and money into getting my 1275 block up and running, only to find the mains are a mess and it will probably need another £200 to line bore them back into shape.

I've put the 1275 block on hold and looking again at the 2 998 blocks that I have. I want to run a 12G 940 head so started taking measurements to work out how deeply I need to pocket the block, when I realised the head I wanted to use has been skimmed on the slant- It's been clamped down without the machinist noticing the valve stems stick out 1/2mm, so it's been cut 1mm deeper at the front than at the back, FFS.

The heads to scrap, but I'll lose volume in the chamber, so I may just save this for a NA engine. I've got another 12G940 that appears to be in good shape so I'm going to spend some time grinding that out over the next few days.

This is a 12G940 head I had tucked away and just found it recently. It hasn't been skimmed and looking at the valve seats, despite all the crud, it looks to be in really good shape. The plan is:

Open the ports closer to the gasket line / locator rings.
Grind out the valve bosses and open the throat a little.
New valve guides, bulleted.
Chamber volume to be decided(need to measure 998 with flat top pistons tomorrow) but aiming for CR 9:1

interesting read some wicked ingenuity, be interesting to see what you could do with some decent gear..

Yeah, I've gotten quite good at getting by with what every hand tools / power tools I have. A couple of months ago, I wanted to buy a bench grinder and realised that I don't even have a bench! Soon fixed with a bit of welding, and soon as it was done I wondered how I've managed for the last 15 years. One day, when I have my own double garage, I'd love some serious kit like a lathe and milling machine but that's a long way off.

Small updates; Cracking on as I don't want this to drag on as it's getting colder and colder. Valves were in pretty good shape. The exhausts had slight pitting which I've cut out and now look like new. Just getting ready to make the first cuts in the head tomorrow.

incredible inventiveness...makes me hang my head in shame at how little i get done.

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

Haha, only just seen your post Robert... If you don't think you get much done then check out the time-stamps on my posts!

Head almost complete. Thel Rover guides had been drilled miles off center. New guides went in fine, but the valves hardly touched the seats! It took more grinding than I'd expected to get them seated and left bad ridges where the valves were now recessed. I made a tool to cut a 30 /60 degree top and bottom angles to tidy the seats up and but 30 degree back cuts on the valves. In hindsight I would happily just have gotten someone with the right equipment to recut the seats, but glad I tried it.

Since I want to run this head without pocketing the block, sinking the seats a little can't hurt, and now I have poor-man's 3 angle seats

Edited by PhilR on 4th Feb, 2015.

Block next. This a 99p eBay engine and gearbox that looks to be in pretty good heath. Just need the block for now, so I'll crack on with a few modifications, 11 bolt, oil jets next.

Great job on the head.

The rods should have a squirter hole drilled in already so I don't think you need the jets really.

Made in Poland build thread:
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...tid=570363&fr=0

Excellent work. Well Impreseed with the homemade stuff.

Edited by theoneeyedlizard on 4th Feb, 2015.

In the 13's at last!.. Just

Awesome stuff!

Great work phil

Cheers Guys.

SadamPl, I had a really good think last night about what you said regarding the rod squirters, but I think I'd already made up my mind and was just thinking of reasons to back up what I wanted to do! My conclusion was that the rods should do a good job of getting a small amount of oil up there (enough to lubrication to the wrist pins) but nothing more. To actually cool the pistons, I think you need oil jets that were designed just for that and send a flood of oil up there. I honestly hope the're not needed as I don't want an engine that's that close to destruction with out them, but it offers some piece of mind if I make a stupid mistake when tuning.

Sooooo, here's the oil jets in place...





I previously made a tool that held my die grinder a set distance over the holes so I could push it along the block's gearbox mounting face. This worked great and made a perfectly level surface. But I couldn't find it. So I had a look around and here's what I used to counterbore the seats instead



As it's only designed to cut wood I wasn't expecting it to hold up too well, but it made beautiful cuts (even though I had to sharpen it several times). The cutting edges are each at a very slight 5 degree angle pointing downwards, so originally I thought I would just grind them back, then I had another idea... Since I'm doing all of this freehand, it would actually be better to have the center or the surface slightly convex. This would better allow for a slight angle in my freehand drilling / tapping and if I put sealing washers under the jets, then the surfaces would pinch the washers nicely to get a good seal.

Looking at the washers afterwards and they look to have all sealed perfectly. Still need to put the crank and pistons in to check clearance. I had several reasons for and against putting them inline with the bores, I'm confident there's enough room with a bit of tweaking.

It's certainly not 'classical engineering', but sometimes you just have to try odd-ball stuff. It worked, so I'm happy

Edited by PhilR on 4th Feb, 2015.

Good work! Can't wait to see how the SPI system works, compared to a HIF44 carb. What turbo are you using?

On 18th Nov, 2014 D4VE said:
went down to my local hydraulics place and he gave me a suitable replacement larger nipple

What oil jets are thay?

Mark.

I can't believe that managed to cut the block.

In the 13's at last!.. Just

Turbo is a Chinese TD04-11 TF035HM-12T. It should be similar to GT17, but I plan to measure it up before fitting - maps and spec are hard to find.

Oil jets were from a Mercedes (2010 C180). They're not bad, although bulkier than the favored BMW jets. They were originally rectangular, but because of my hole placements, I had to trim the bodies down for clearance.

I wasn't sure the drill would work, but I had 2 other methods if it failed, so was worth a shot! Cast iron is pretty soft, but I also learned that you can cut it with a rake angle of 0 degrees, so explains why a flat faced bit works. Probably wouldn't cut anything else though!

I checked for rod clearance today and had to grind the conrod oil squirters off, and tweak the oil jet pipes. Knowing how easy it was to face the block surface, if I did it again I'd just drill off to the side with a slightly smaller drill bit, and the jet's would have dropped straight in.

Edited by PhilR on 5th Feb, 2016.

This is a cool thread; full of "can do" stuff. Never did I think a spade drill for wood, would ever work on CI.

Kudos fella. Kudos indeed.

TD

Cool tread. You give me courage again for my turbo engine.

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018