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Home > Wanted > speedo drive/pinion

Carlzilla

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3673 Posts
Member #: 9300
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Quarry Bonk

Not long got in, I'll go check now!

On 26th Jan, 2012 Tom Fenton said:
ring problems are down to wear or abuse but although annoying it isn't a show stopper

On 5th Aug, 2014 madmk1 said:
Shit the bed! I had snapped the end of my shaft off!!

17.213 @ 71mph, 64bhp n/a (Old Engine)


jameswildcooper

756 Posts
Member #: 1355
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Leicester

lovely *happy*


Carlzilla

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3673 Posts
Member #: 9300
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Quarry Bonk

My pinion is a 17t, but I think the worm may be 6t, picture here so somebody can confirm if it is or not!

On 26th Jan, 2012 Tom Fenton said:
ring problems are down to wear or abuse but although annoying it isn't a show stopper

On 5th Aug, 2014 madmk1 said:
Shit the bed! I had snapped the end of my shaft off!!

17.213 @ 71mph, 64bhp n/a (Old Engine)


Alex

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690 Posts
Member #: 1851
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Woolavington, Zummerzet

Not from that angle - you need to look at it end on...

Metric is for people who can't do fractions.


Carlzilla

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3673 Posts
Member #: 9300
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Quarry Bonk

Man, I'm tired lol.
Sure it's definately 6 in that case...

On 26th Jan, 2012 Tom Fenton said:
ring problems are down to wear or abuse but although annoying it isn't a show stopper

On 5th Aug, 2014 madmk1 said:
Shit the bed! I had snapped the end of my shaft off!!

17.213 @ 71mph, 64bhp n/a (Old Engine)


jameswildcooper

756 Posts
Member #: 1355
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Leicester

if thats deffo right ill have it off you!
so i just need the pinion then....


Alex

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690 Posts
Member #: 1851
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Woolavington, Zummerzet

I just bought a brand new 7-tooth spindle from 'Spares to put in a friends MPi - over £50 !!!

I've got quite a few 5 & 6-tooth spindles if anyone nees one.

Metric is for people who can't do fractions.


evad1980

1142 Posts
Member #: 10165
Post Whore

Stansted, Essex

Hi folks, just reviving an old post...

I am trying to figure out which drive I need for my speedo cable. I have used the calculator on guessworks site and come to the conclusion that I need a 6/16 drive.

Here are the variables I have used..

Tyre size 165/70 R10
3:1 final drive
90 mph Nippon Seiki clock

Can anyone tell me if this is correct as I can’t find an exact 3:1 final drive in the selection?

Thanks,

Dave.


DILLIGAF

169 Posts
Member #: 9128
Advanced Member

The actual ratio of the 3.1 is there it's just stated more accurately as 3.105
So your correct you want a 6/16 worm and pinion.


evad1980

1142 Posts
Member #: 10165
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Stansted, Essex

Yeah that’s what I figured... went with the closest one.

Cheers..... 👍


evad1980

1142 Posts
Member #: 10165
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Stansted, Essex

And am I right in thinking I need both of theses gears.....?

http://www.guess-works.com/Shop/Parts/?typ...rgument=SPD6/16

I thought I only needed one... but thinking about it... I guess I need both as one drives the other?


evad1980

1142 Posts
Member #: 10165
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Stansted, Essex



On 21st Jul, 2020 DILLIGAF said:
The actual ratio of the 3.1 is there it's just stated more accurately as 3.105
So your correct you want a 6/16 worm and pinion.



Yes... that’s what you said here... doh! *happy*



So for my next question..... are they easy enough to change? I think the pinion is easy enough to take out and replace... but the worm maybe not? Can it be done with the engine in situ?

Edited by evad1980 on 22nd Jul, 2020.


evad1980

1142 Posts
Member #: 10165
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Stansted, Essex

Ok... I think I’ve found the answer to my own question....

Found this posted on another thread....

22nd Feb, 2009 at 08:19:50pmPM User | Quote
It isn't the pinion that you need to change particularly, it's the worm/pinion combination, and if you have the five tooth worm, it's the worm especially that you need to change.

To change the worm, you need to get the plastic "pinion" out first.... That is like undoing the speedo cable at the bottom end but even harder........ but it can be done, so if it was only the plastic gear...... difficult but not too bad.

But if it's the worm that needs changing, after removing the plastic pinion, then you need to get the two small bolts out and the small plate off the end of engine mounting alloy cover.....

except that there is an alloy adapter bolted on top of this (3 studs through the gearbox and one strange countersunk phillips headed bolt)....

and on top of this is the bracket that does the engine mount and bottom of the radiator, and on top of this is the radiator and engine mounting block.....

So if you can remove the radiator, the engine mount, the steel bracket, the alloy block, the two small bolts, and get some pliers in there to pull the worm out....... all without removing the engine, well done !!!

Sorry to sound cynical - I'm sure it's possible given enough time (the phillips headed bolt will be VERY difficult in situ) - but I personally would take the engine back out.

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