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Turbo Mini Forums

Other than the problem you have talked about, what other problems do they give? were those that gave problems installed to the suggested installation guidelines, because, i'll tell you what, there are areas of our system that, when you read the manfacturers guidelines, clearly are not installed or set up correctly!

I appreciate your advice, but surely fitting one wont make it any worse than it allready is? If they are so bad, why do Biritsh Gas insist on installing them, when they are the ones maintaing such systems, and likely have to pay for any repair that might come from such a problematic device, under that maintenance contract.

The problem I have is there is air trapped in the system and can be heard running through the pump, this 'air' (non condensables) is entrained in the water and goes right past the vent. It all eventually ends up in the back bedroom rad where I bleed it off. Bottom line is, the system has always been a right bastard to vent since day one.

I have yet to be able to drain and refill the system and totally bleed off all air. The system is drained and refilled every year with inhibitor added. (the wife works for a heating spares company, which is handy) We live in a fairly soft water area, and scaling is minimal. Boiler is quiet as a mouse.

To be honest, the parts you get these days are shite anyway. We've come home from holiday tofind the kitchen flooded out because the gland nut on the lockshield valve had fractured. That was in the middle of the summer when the heating wasn't on. It happened again in the downstairs toilet. Its happened to pretty much everyone on the estate. we had to replace the hot water cylinder 2 years back as it was leaking at the bottom, and since then I have seen several others on the estate having theirs replaced too. The cylinder was a right bastard to replace too, the draincock was round the back, and would it fuck open, the seal was stuck on the seat. The vent on the cylinder Central heating circuit has never ever worked, and I reckon it was overheated when it was soldered on.

I have been progressively replacing the thermostatic rad valves from Myson to Drayton, replacing the lockshields, and vent caps on all the rads and re painting them.

The air is pissing me off, lol.

Hmmm well there is no positives to them, as for british gas they are usless. Over priced and not that gd at wat they do.

The best thing is to have the flow up and over into the pump. Witch wil then go to ur 3 or 2 port valve. With the feed and vent teed in before the pump. Then have a auto vent on ur coil into the cylinder.

Im guess ur already close to this?

If u want take some pics of the pipework for me to see

13.95 1/4 mile on a 2.95 fd. Carnt be that hard to beat!

The pipework is pretty much as I've drawn it in the previous picture. The pump is in the airing cupboard. There is about 1.5m between the pump and the cold water feed. The header tank is the loft, about 2.5m above the pump. The three port valve is pretty much right after the pump.

The more I think about it I think I'll check the cold feed, as if that is restricted, the easiest route then is the vent, and of course there is only the standing water in that pipe, before it sucks in air. In hind sight we have recently started to notice when the system starts that there is a large surge of air that most of it dissipates eventually in the back bedroom rad, but there still is the annoying minor airiation sounds through the system

I have also thought about increasing the cold feed pipe diamter to 22mm. This might be the easiest and simplest. fitting a separator the next easiest. Moving the pump and feed/ vent is a fairly big job in comparison, But i do need to replace the hot water cylinder vent. Something I'm going to leave for next summer shutdown, as i've just had to fork out for a new fan assembly for the boiler.

Defo dont increase the feed pipe, but check that is fills properly.

Have u got an auto air vent and what pump do u have?

13.95 1/4 mile on a 2.95 fd. Carnt be that hard to beat!

Another and probibly the best thing to do is turn it into a sealed system.

Cap the vent. Fit a filling loop from the cold main to the feed.
And fit an expantion vessal and prv to the system

13.95 1/4 mile on a 2.95 fd. Carnt be that hard to beat!

Topic Re Resurection

hi tom see at your cylinder ,as youve marked hot to rads pipe id fit a teepiece on the pipe close to cylinder and run a pipe from the top of the t piece to about a foot above the cylinder and fit a manual bleed fitting to the top of the pipe ,that way the bleed is at a high point in the systmn and should then free you off your problem ,i may add ive been plumbing for over 30 yrs this usually cures the problem, pm me if you need any more info ,happy to help

give em hell

Gents,

Thanks for the replies to my query, in the end I repiped it as per my diagram which seemed to work far better when filling/bleeding.