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Home > A-Series EFI / Injection > New inlet manifold - now with shiny new engine

Graham T

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Hungerford, Berks

Yes, I've just had an email conversation with Paul S about the AT Power TB. Based on the dimensions he has given me, I can attach the 50mm TB via a flange to the Plenum and still have room to bring the pipe around and squeeze between the cylinder head and Servo/ master cylinder to the intercooler.
I going to go and offer this back up to the engine in the car and make sure before I spend out.

Paul, one thing I forgot to ask:

On 5th Dec, 2010 Paul S said:


Also not sure that you can get a 50mm silicone pipe and clamp on the inlet without it fouling the quadrant...

Did you confirm whether the hose would foul the quadrant?

’77 Clubman build thread
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=618189

Siamese 5 port EFI testing
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=611675


Rod S

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Formally Retired

Rural Suffolk

On 19th Mar, 2011 Graham T said:
I think I can tap a small M3 hole in the injector pocket block, just...






That looks fine but as it's off the centreline vertically, retain the links (or fit a new simpler single triangular link slipped over the same stud) up to the plenum then the lateral location remains off the plenum and the clamp force is off the stud.

Be carefull against overtightening the M3 stud, the stud itself will easily carry the pressure loading from the fuel but if you overtighten it you take away the margin.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Paul S

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Formerly Axel

Podland

On 19th Mar, 2011 Graham T said:
Did you confirm whether the hose would foul the quadrant?


The gap is around 6.5mm into which you have to get the hose and clamp.

It's going to be close. Last thing we want is the throtlle stuck open :(

I'll see if I can do a trial fit later. Have to go and weld in some roll cage plates now.

Edited by Paul S on 19th Mar, 2011.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Paul S

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Formerly Axel

Podland

Well, Sturgeo is still in his pit and I'm not welding his car on my own, so i've done a mock up.

There is about 1mm clearance if you use a large jubilee clip. The larger, preferred hose clips are just a bit too thick.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Graham T

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Hungerford, Berks

Thanks Paul, I think I can just make it fit.




If I cannot get the TB on the end of the Plenum, with a 90deg hose on the end of that, I can make a short angled extension to the Plenum and mount the TB at around 45 deg to the plenum.
I’ve got a 90 deg, 63mm Aliminium bend in the post somewhere, so I can cut that to suit and put a flange on the end to mount the TB.
So AT Power TB on order…

Waste gate actuator now in position:




Lots of rust to worry about!!


’77 Clubman build thread
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=618189

Siamese 5 port EFI testing
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=611675


Graham T

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Hungerford, Berks

Just a little update on getting this all to fit. I took delivery of an AT power Throttle body a few days back, so I'm just mocking up the pipework to see how best to get it all to fit.

Its been a real struggle to get the intercooler in without fouling the bonnet, but I think I've got enough clearance for a small amount of engine movement.

Also, there is not enough room between the inlet manifold and the Servo to mount the TB directly on the end of the plenum, so I've had to make up a small angled extension and new flange, which is still a bit too long. At the moment I've only got about 1mm between the servo and the silicon pipe.











Quick question: Although the DV is a recirc type, would there be a problem using it to dumping to atmosphere?

’77 Clubman build thread
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=618189

Siamese 5 port EFI testing
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=611675


Joe C

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Carlos Fandango

Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex

looking good!

the dump valve will be fine venting to atmospheric, you might find it sounds odd though, I use an alloy version of what you have and it seems to make quite an agressive CHIINNG! sound rather than the normall TSCHHH, I assume its down to the outlet being different.

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/



Graham T

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Hungerford, Berks

And finally, 8 months later I have got the inlet manifold bolted to the engine, finished building the engine, installed it in the shell and started it up…

Sorry about the dubious quality of some of the pictures.


















And I forgot to bring my camera home today, so no pictures of the final install, just a crap video of the engine running. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hj78MzSTUbc


I only had a couple of issues with start up:

Oil pressure was a bitch to get up. I ended up having to remove the block to filter pipe and fill the oil pump, then rotate the eninge backward to get the pump primed. Once I did this oil pressure came up nicely on starter.
Testing the fuel system prior to start up I had a leak on cylinder 1/2 primary injector - That was simply a crap 'O' ring on the injector at the "fuel rail" end. Replaced the 'O' ring and that problem was sorted.

The next problem was lack of sync with the megasquirt. This turned out to be a wrong value pull down resistor for the second trigger.

Once those problems were sorted, it started as sweet as a nut.

Tick over is a bit rough at the moment, but I used my 998 NA clubman MSQ as a starting point.

However, I now have a leaking thermostat housing which needs sorting before I continue testing.
The thermostat was loose between the thermostat housing and sandwich plate (which is used for the CLT sensor). I thought I was being clever by modifying a thermostat housing gasket to make a type of shim to help clamp the stat down, but it looks like it was too thick and has not allowed the full gasket to seal properly.

Just as a besides, anyone running a GT1752 with the cooling pipes connected - How does this affect your warm up?
The Radiator does not take long at all to get hot, due to the water bypassing the thermostat from the turbo. The top hose stays cold until 74deg C. Although I have an electric fan, which does not cut in until after the stat opens, I'm just wondering whether the Turbo cooling will increase warmup time?

Now I have the engine running I need to get the car finished...



Oh, Engine spec:

1275 +40
Accralite forged pistons 14cc dish
Ultra light flywheel
AP Race Grey plate
SW5 07 billeted cam shaft
Minispares 1.3 roller rockers
Gt1752 Turbo

Cylinder head -
26cc chambers
35.7mm inlet and 29.5mm exhaust valves
180Lbs valve springs


Drive chain -
Straight cut drop gears
Clubman straight cut gear set
4 pin diff 2.95 FD


Edit - spelling

Edited by Graham T on 3rd Dec, 2011.

’77 Clubman build thread
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=618189

Siamese 5 port EFI testing
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=611675


Paul S

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Formerly Axel

Podland

Good to see it all coming together. How far are you from getting the car on the road?

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Graham T

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Hungerford, Berks

A long way off yet. Maybe late spring, if I'm lucky...

Now the engine is running I can concetrate on the rest of it.

’77 Clubman build thread
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=618189

Siamese 5 port EFI testing
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=611675


apbellamy

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King Gaycharger, butt plug dealer, Sheldon Cooper and a BAC but generally a niceish fella if you dont mind a northerner

Rotherham, South Yorkshire

*Clapping*

On 11th Feb, 2015 robert said:
i tried putting soap on it , and heating it to brown , then slathered my new lube on it

*hehe!*


Rod S

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Rural Suffolk

Good to see real progress


On 3rd Dec, 2011 Graham T said:
A long way off yet. Maybe late spring, if I'm lucky....


So there is still a chance I won't be last :)

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Graham T

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Hungerford, Berks

That depends on how far through you are now Rod?

I have to spray up the shell, finish off some fiberglassing, rebuild the subframes and final assembly and now I have ALOT of motivation.
As always, its the time that is lacking.

’77 Clubman build thread
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=618189

Siamese 5 port EFI testing
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=611675


Paul S

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8604 Posts
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Formerly Axel

Podland

Graham, just one thing that is puzzling me.

What type of cam sensor are you using that needs a pull-down resistor?

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Graham T

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Hungerford, Berks

Paul, I'm using an opto switch now, the same as Rod.





On the Clubman, I had 2 failures with the hall switch that you use on the 998ti. Mainly I think due to the poor quality of my modified dizzy.

With the Opto switch power is taken from the 5v ref that supplies the TPS.
When I installed the opto switch I was still getting no sync and Rod lead me through some trouble shooting.
We needed the pull down resistor to "clean up" the signal and remove false triggers.
For some reason the 10k value works on the Clubman, but not on the turbo install.
The voltage from the opto switch was below the threshold of the opto isolator, so the MS2 was not seeing a signal. I increased the value on the Turbo install to 15k, which has increased the opto switch output to around 3v, but still helps filter and false triggers.

Rod, please correct me if I have just spouted a load of rubbish.

’77 Clubman build thread
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=618189

Siamese 5 port EFI testing
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=611675


Paul S

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Formerly Axel

Podland

Thanks for explaining that.

I've not had a problem with the Jaycar sensor over several thousand miles, but I don't think that it is as robust as, say, a gear tooth sensor.

This may have just made up my mind to use the same gear tooth sensor for cam, crank and VSS1/2/3.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Rod S

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Rural Suffolk

On 4th Dec, 2011 Graham T said:

Rod, please correct me if I have just spouted a load of rubbish.


Nothing wrong with that but just to expand a bit further, it's also associated with the use of Jean's dual VR board - which is installed on my "spare" MS2 - for the secondary tach as well as the primary.

It works absolutely fine on the primary VR crank sensor (no more pots to fiddle with, it just works straight out of the box) but is a bit more tricky to get it to work wih an Opto or Hall trigger for the secondary tach. I've been through it with Jean and it will work for other signals (connected slightly differently) but, for reasons which are not entirely clear yet, it has required a different value of resistor across its input to get it to work reliably on three different engines all with essentially the same opto switch.......

With the benefit of hindsight I'll stick with the normal U3 input for the secondary tach (Hall or opto) in future and only use this board for VR inputs which it was originally intended for.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Graham T

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Hungerford, Berks



On 4th Dec, 2011 Rod S said:

It works absolutely fine on the primary VR crank sensor (no more pots to fiddle with, it just works straight out of the box) but is a bit more tricky to get it to work wih an Opto or Hall trigger for the secondary tach. I've been through it with Jean and it will work for other signals (connected slightly differently) but, for reasons which are not entirely clear yet, it has required a different value of resistor across its input to get it to work reliably on three different engines all with essentially the same opto switch.......



I wonder if it has anything to do with internal resistances of the wiring between different installs?
When I first started up the turbo Engine I was using jump leads only. I could only get 150 – 170RPM on starter, but the engine started and ran, using the 10k resistor.
After a bit of starting and stopping and a flattened battery I changed batteries for a fully charged one. This gave the same slow turn over. I changed the +ve jump lead for the new battery lead and cranking speed increase to 250 – 270RPM. However, no sync until I changed the resistor to 15k.
I still have a jump lead as the –ve until I can find the original earth strap I used on the test engine back along, or buy a new one.

’77 Clubman build thread
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=618189

Siamese 5 port EFI testing
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=611675


Paul S

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8604 Posts
Member #: 573
Formerly Axel

Podland

Could it be the wide tolerance of the capacitor values on the MS board or the opto sensor itself?

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Rod S

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Formally Retired

Rural Suffolk

On 4th Dec, 2011 Paul S said:
Could it be the wide tolerance of the capacitor values on the MS board or the opto sensor itself?


It shouldn't be the capacitors in this case as the new board bypasses virtually everything on the MS2.

It certainly could be the variation in values of the optoswitches but somehow I doubt it (gut feel only).

I just get the sense that this circuit is very VR friendly but very square wave un-friendly.

More testing required.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


BENROSS

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Resident Cylinder Head Modifier

Mitsi Evo 7, 911, Cossie. & all the chavs ...... won no problem

good oil pressure and did it fire up straight away






Graham T

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608 Posts
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Hungerford, Berks

steve,
yes, pretty much, I had to up the fueling a bit to get it to catch, but considering it was only turning over at about 150RPM and the tune was for my 998 NA I was suprised I did not have that much of problem.

’77 Clubman build thread
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=618189

Siamese 5 port EFI testing
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=611675


minivan63

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Advanced Member

South Wales

Looking good.

Are you running wasted spark on this?

The intercooler looks like a good fit as well - what's it off?

Gives me a bit of motivation for my project, but lots of welding to do first.


Yo-Han

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North of the Netherlands

Nice Graham, really nice.

Dazed and Confused....


Graham T

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608 Posts
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Post Whore

Hungerford, Berks

Yes, it is wasted spark. I'm using Jean's 4 channel ignition/ injection driver board driving the ford coil pack with 2 of the 4 ignition circuits.


The intercooler is off of a cosworth. Loads of people on here are using this type. Personally I found it a real squeeze to get it in under the bonnet...

Originally Steve modified it for me to incorporate the outlet for the DV. But because I am using the metro sandwich plate for my CLT sensor, I could not get the air pipe from the turbo over the thermostat housing without touching either the bonnet or the stat housing. Hence, I have the intercooler mounted upside down to most using this type. The pipe from the turbo runs between the end of the head and the radiator,which itself is mounted lower than normal and further out from the engine to give clearance. Doing this meant DV outlet on the intercooler was in the way of the alternator pully, so it had to go.

Additionally, I wanted to dump the air pre-intercooler, and as it was with the original mod, it would have been post intercooler. I may be wrong with this, but I just could not see the point in dumping the air after it had gone through the IC.

’77 Clubman build thread
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=618189

Siamese 5 port EFI testing
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=611675

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