k1200rs 1380 engine build
Turbo Mini Forums

brass will do for the water ways,
loving the pics too, will make a good how too when done...

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

[quote
Why? I'm sticking 5 port, so I'm only plugging the water holes.[/quote]

didn't realise you were doing a 5 port, brass would be good, plenty of loctite aswell

I decided to take on the advice given and run the oil feed to the head from the front of the block, so drilled out the oil feed hole on the block, though when tapping it out, messed it up, drilled it out again and messed that up, clearly having a bad day, so back to the workshop this weekend and drilled it out to fit my 14m blanking plugs, also blanked all the waterways on the block & put new 14m blanking plugs in ready for cnc machine in a couple of weeks, which as you can expect I am very excited about as all my head studs will be in a straight line rather than zig zag. lol



With the head have decided to weld up the holes below so I can fit a flange in for the water flow & dry deck. Will be picking this up in the morning


Have also after advice having this hole welded up so I won’t need a drain

Phil, I know wee spoke earlier, and I previously reposted this picture on EFI minis advising you to plug off the hole in the very top center of the pic, but just to be 100% sure you are 100% sure you know which holes to block up. The two holes you have identified in the last picture above, LEAVE THESE ALONE. It is the small hole at the VERY TOP CENTER of this picture that needs blocking off, The small threaded hole to right and below it should be fine left as it is.

:)

There was a small lip where he had welded the section in so he has put a bit of weld on ready to machine



This is the head almost ready, though needs a final skim once I have finished playing around with it


Welded up the original water outlet so I can mill out ready for dry decking, approx 32mm hole is needed

Progressing slowly, I have had the stud holes cnc’d at 76.5mm x 86mm, so all straight and in line, I can definitely see the benefits of having this done


However the head was a little tight still, so I have opened the stud holes to 11.4mm so now it slide’s nicely and off, however slight lack of concentration, I knocked the handle which moves the bench from left to right, so a bit of welding was needed again, so will be drilling that out next week so all fit nicely

Milled out the side of the head 32mm for the water outlet, just have to make an adaptor, have to say I was very nervous doing this as I was not sure how close it would be to the chambers, so had a little dance when it worked 

The head on the block, great it seems to be coming together slowly

Finished off the porting which is now smooth, however someone suggested these should be a little rough to help with flow etc which can be done be sand blasting. Any thoughts?

Looks awesome.

Are you making your own belt drive or using a kit ?

"So wat we gonna do tonight Brain?"
"Same thing we do evernight Pinky!"
"Try to take over the world!"

Looking good phil.

I would have drilled the holes on a 76 by 86 mm grid.

That may be why it was still tight.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."

looking good buddy

Edited by philc on 6th Sep, 2010.

Just a bit of an update re progress

Valves seated and in head

Water outlet received, thanks to Turbophil (TMF)

Block marked out ready for oil jets




Also great find for today, splint my engine which I have never done, bought it ready built and took my chances, has cooper s rods and crank, lighted flywheel and timing gear, great

Edited by philc on 21st Nov, 2010.

Great work, looks like a really time consuming and you have great attention to detail. looking good so far.

Done a little today with the end plate and machining the cam cover, not as perfect as I would have liked, but I am sure will be ok with a little sealant.

[img width=800 height=600]http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa225/philc72/Twinky/08012011063.jpg[/img]
[img width=800 height=600]http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa225/philc72/Twinky/08012011064.jpg[/img]
[img width=800 height=600]http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa225/philc72/Twinky/08012011065.jpg[/img]
[img width=800 height=600]http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa225/philc72/Twinky/08012011067.jpg[/img]
[img width=768 height=1024]http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa225/philc72/Twinky/08012011069.jpg[/img]

sorted compression ratio out today so will now be able to buy pistons, looking like either accralite or hypatec 7cc dish with some total seal rings, thats the plan anyway.

have decided to put some locating studs in the block for the head, that way i know it will be true, so back off to the cnc machine

On 9th Jan, 2011 philc said:
Done a little today with the end plate and machining the cam cover, not as perfect as I would have liked, but I am sure will be ok with a little sealant.







sorted compression ratio out today so will now be able to buy pistons, looking like either accralite or hypatec 7cc dish with some total seal rings, thats the plan anyway.

have decided to put some locating studs in the block for the head, that way i know it will be true, so back off to the cnc machine

Edited by robert on 9th Jan, 2011.

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

looks great

Done now needs redoing lol

Some really nice work keep it up

Craig

my mini van http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=448248

Hi, long time since i had time..

Looking at the amount of welding that has taken place are you not worried about distortion (especialy as the cams are running in the head), and loss of heat treatment.

The camps are divided between : No worries that i'll work mate! ..........and I would never use a head without pulling all the seats and starting from scratch.. which is a tad expensive in these heads

I have a 16V head but I am not to keen about starting untill I know pretty much exactly the consequences of my actions

That sir, is not rust, it is the progressive mass reduction system

http://aseriesmodifications.wordpress.com/

Enough appear to have been dry decked without problems, so I'm not worried about doing mine when the time comes.

I havent had any issues with the head gasket, and the gasket fire ring never left a ridge in the head, which is a tell tale sign that the alloy has been anealed.

Also consider that any 'soft' spots will eventualy become work hardened with the repeated heat cycles that engines are exposed to.

I asked my machinist about this, and he said that it will be fine. He repairs alloy heads all the time, that is a core part of his business, and the type of customers he has, I am not going to doubt him.

Can anyone catagorically say that any valve seats have fallen out, head has distorted, or has 'creeped' due to the loss of heat treatment due to welding the casting? Can anyone argue with the fact that there are several of these 'welded' heads some running silly boost, without any noticable effect?

You are welcome to make your own mind up, But I think you might just be OK.

my machinist and porting guy welds together broken cam carriers. I think that is proof enough...

Also they usually weld chambers to get them to a size they like so I dont think it will be a problem

Not too much going on with me at the moment, progress appears slow, but I am getting there


The block has been bored to +60, as I have coopers crank, so should not be too far off the mark of 1380.

I have drilled tapped one of the oil jets, so one done 3 more to go,
As I have said previously I wanted to have a couple of locating dowels to keep the head true and to stop it twisting and potentially pulling the belt off which some people where experiencing, well this was done today, 162.5 from the centre of the block and 160mm from centre at the clutch end, but as I suspected the head it tight on the head studs, so looks like I will have to open them up so it locates on the dowels, my only concern is how much can I open these upto?

Hypetch pistons have arrived, ordered so total seal piston rings,

Hopefully at some point next week I will get the con rod shot peened and crank nitride.

Slow but getting there, again I have to give a big thanks Martin at MJA engineering in Bromsgrove for letting me use all of his equipment. http://www.mja-engineering.co.uk/contact.htm

Edited by philc on 26th Feb, 2011.

Really impressive stuff,look forward to seeing more updates.

Cheers Ross.