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Home > A-Series EFI / Injection > Another Cam Sensor | |||||||
11046 Posts Member #: 965 Post Whore Preston On The Brook |
7th Feb, 2010 at 05:40:35pm
That looks really good :) On 26th Oct, 2004 TurboDave16v said:
Is it A-Series only? I think it should be... So when some joey comes on here about how his 16v turbo vauxhall is great compared to ours, he can be given the 'bird'... On 26th Oct, 2004 Tom Fenton said:
Yep I agree with TD........ |
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8604 Posts Member #: 573 Formerly Axel Podland |
21st Apr, 2011 at 03:30:31pm
Finally got around to fitting this:
Edited by Paul S on 21st Apr, 2011. Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
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1267 Posts Member #: 831 Post Whore Montreal, Canada |
21st Apr, 2011 at 03:56:05pm
Are you sure you won't get false readings at high RPM from the other screws? Other than that it's a nice solution.
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6745 Posts Member #: 828 Post Whore uranus |
21st Apr, 2011 at 04:30:40pm
not if you put the longer one in with a nut on the back for the trigger ?then the trigger will be 1mm from the nut and 4 to 5 mm from the other bolt ends ? Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM |
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8604 Posts Member #: 573 Formerly Axel Podland |
21st Apr, 2011 at 04:35:26pm
We did some testing at the weekend and it should be OK.
Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
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971 Posts Member #: 3228 Post Whore North of the Netherlands |
21st Apr, 2011 at 08:41:39pm
Can't you change the other screws to stainless steel if you want to eliminate the risk of false readings? Dazed and Confused.... |
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8604 Posts Member #: 573 Formerly Axel Podland |
21st Apr, 2011 at 09:10:49pm
On 21st Apr, 2011 Yo-Han said:
Can't you change the other screws to stainless steel if you want to eliminate the risk of false readings? Interesting idea. I've just tested a sensor with a stainless screw and, you're right, it does not see it. The only thing that worries me is the tensile strength of stainless steel cap screws. Nothing like as strong as the high tensile screws currently in use. Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
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12307 Posts Member #: 565 Carlos Fandango Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex |
21st Apr, 2011 at 09:12:30pm
indeed, but they dont deed to be particuarly strong,
Edited by Joe C on 21st Apr, 2011. On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged... Joe, do you have a photo of your tool? http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1 https://joe1977.imgbb.com/ |
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971 Posts Member #: 3228 Post Whore North of the Netherlands |
22nd Apr, 2011 at 07:14:10am
Stainless steel bolts are also available in different grades.
Dazed and Confused.... |
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3588 Posts Member #: 655 Post Whore Northern Ireland |
22nd Apr, 2011 at 08:53:18am
Ive seen some stainless one's on egay claiming high tensile.
9.85 @ 145mph
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5988 Posts Member #: 2024 Formally Retired Rural Suffolk |
22nd Apr, 2011 at 09:19:15am
If you want to stick with HT (not stainless) can you not just use shorter ones (apart from the trigger one).
Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ??? |
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8604 Posts Member #: 573 Formerly Axel Podland |
22nd Apr, 2011 at 10:46:33am
Yes, the cam wheel is aluminium, not recommended for road use.
Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
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12307 Posts Member #: 565 Carlos Fandango Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex |
22nd Apr, 2011 at 10:59:09am
I'd disagree and say its actually the friction/stiction between the sprocket and hub that transmit the drive, all the bolts do is pull these together, so there is no sidways force on the bolts.
On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged... Joe, do you have a photo of your tool? http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1 https://joe1977.imgbb.com/ |
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3588 Posts Member #: 655 Post Whore Northern Ireland |
22nd Apr, 2011 at 11:51:54am
On 22nd Apr, 2011 Joe C said:
I'd disagree and say its actually the friction/stiction between the sprocket and hub that transmit the drive, all the bolts do is pull these together, so there is no sidways force on the bolts. considering we run clutches woith the backplates restrained by 3 M8's or 5/16UNF's I would have no qualms running decent ally bolts in there. Correct. Just imagine the loads on some propshafts that are not dowelled and only held on with 4 bolts. In fact, it is amazing they dont shear !! 9.85 @ 145mph
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8604 Posts Member #: 573 Formerly Axel Podland |
22nd Apr, 2011 at 01:46:29pm
Yes, you're right. Having a grey moment there.
Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
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5988 Posts Member #: 2024 Formally Retired Rural Suffolk |
22nd Apr, 2011 at 07:01:44pm
On 22nd Apr, 2011 Paul S said:
Nothing is ever simple. Story of our lives...... Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ??? |
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95 Posts Member #: 9314 Advanced Member Chippenham, Wilts |
30th May, 2011 at 11:13:31pm
Paul, how many degrees before TDC have you set the cam sensor? |
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8604 Posts Member #: 573 Formerly Axel Podland |
31st May, 2011 at 09:32:34am
I followed this guide:
Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
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5988 Posts Member #: 2024 Formally Retired Rural Suffolk |
31st May, 2011 at 10:03:16am
Mine, although a different design, ended up at 160 degrees BTDC.
Edited by Rod S on 31st May, 2011. Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ??? |
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95 Posts Member #: 9314 Advanced Member Chippenham, Wilts |
31st May, 2011 at 11:28:31am
So anywhere between 120-160 btdc will be fine, its just I going to copy Pauls idea fit the sensor on to the cam sprocket and need to give the machinist the details so the bolt is set in the right place |
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8604 Posts Member #: 573 Formerly Axel Podland |
31st May, 2011 at 11:31:24am
In the end, I swapped 5 of the screws for stainless ones.
Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
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95 Posts Member #: 9314 Advanced Member Chippenham, Wilts |
31st May, 2011 at 11:45:24am
I'm using the original steel sprocket (with offset keys) but the problem of drilling it will be down to Brett lol |
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5988 Posts Member #: 2024 Formally Retired Rural Suffolk |
31st May, 2011 at 12:29:56pm
On 31st May, 2011 Ratty said:
So anywhere between 120-160 btdc will be fine........ As the MS3 manual now quotes a figure, I would go for that - a couple of years ago we were going by what Jean recommended as he had only just added the cam trigger to the code. Bear in mind you also have the option in the software of the second trigger being on the rising or falling edge of the signal so depending how fast your Hall switch changes from on to off you can pick two different points for it to operate anyway. In my case (Opto-switch, not Hall) I ended up with a 35 degree window (see my scope plot that Paul put on the first page of this thread) so I could move it a lot closer to 120 degrees if I wanted, but all I can say is, it works fine at 160 degrees. If you are using a steel wheel and bolt, depending how far the bolt protrudes from the steel wheel "may" affect how fast the Hall switch operates. A bit of an unknown. Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ??? |
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95 Posts Member #: 9314 Advanced Member Chippenham, Wilts |
2nd Jun, 2011 at 08:55:48am
Paul, I'm going to perform the led test you did to see how far from the steel wheel I need to have the sensor.
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8604 Posts Member #: 573 Formerly Axel Podland |
2nd Jun, 2011 at 04:42:22pm
No schematic, just I take 12v through a 680k resistor to an LED connected to the sensor output. Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
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