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Home > Show Us Yours! > 1293 Turbo neon - Rebuild Pt2

Nick warwick

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537 Posts
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Sheffield


On 11th Mar, 2014 madmk1 said:
Just make one up mate, use a old blanking plate.


Worth a try! just weld a pipe connector to a blanking plate?

On 11th Mar, 2014 apbellamy said:
Carlton hydraulics in rotherham for the oil feed


They being BINGO near the Asda?


apbellamy

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16540 Posts
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King Gaycharger, butt plug dealer, Sheldon Cooper and a BAC but generally a niceish fella if you dont mind a northerner

Rotherham, South Yorkshire

Yeah, eastwood trading estate.

On 11th Feb, 2015 robert said:
i tried putting soap on it , and heating it to brown , then slathered my new lube on it

*hehe!*


madmk1

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5417 Posts
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Double hard bastard

brookwood woking

That's all mine is mate. With a bit of pipe welded to it.

I have started posting on Instagram also my name on there is turbomk1golf

Nothing is impossible it just costs more and takes longer.

On 1st Nov, 2007 Ben H said:
There is no such thing as 'insignificant weight saving', it all adds up.


Nick warwick

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Member #: 8926
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Sheffield

Oil pipe to block/filter housing how do i find out what size thread i need?

Using a braided hose from minispares, i bought it with the 11/16 union by accident but that is wrong!


apbellamy

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King Gaycharger, butt plug dealer, Sheldon Cooper and a BAC but generally a niceish fella if you dont mind a northerner

Rotherham, South Yorkshire

1/8 NPT into a T on the oil pressure sensor. make sure you get a rotating fitting on the engine end.

On 11th Feb, 2015 robert said:
i tried putting soap on it , and heating it to brown , then slathered my new lube on it

*hehe!*


Nick warwick

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537 Posts
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Sheffield

Sorry i ment the oil filter housing to block pipe mate.

Carlton hydraulics made me the turbo oil feed pipe up today. Nice people!


Nick warwick

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537 Posts
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Sheffield

Looked at my actuator the other night and it's missing the part the screws onto the threaded bar.

Can you make these or buy them?


Nick warwick

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537 Posts
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Sheffield

Engine is in!




How do you guys get a nut on here?


Not sure on how to wire the SPI fuel tank in as it has 2 spade clips?


Mike-998

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Buckinghamshire

To get the nut on I'd pull the manifold off the stud slightly and you should be able slide the washer on then get the nut started. Don't forget the gasket though!

With the pump surely one is Ign switched live, mine has an oil pressure switch switching the relay for it as well, and the other is ground?

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...tid=469104&fr=0


jonny f

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Dorking

good work!


John

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Mongo

Barnsley, South Flatcapshire

do youself a favour and buy some k-nuts for the manifold.

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.


Nick warwick

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Sheffield

Cheers mike, haha yeah i was just mocking it up to see if it cleared the bulk head ok.

These are the connections on the pump


Thanks jonny, pretty happy with the progress. Not long till start up!


apbellamy

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King Gaycharger, butt plug dealer, Sheldon Cooper and a BAC but generally a niceish fella if you dont mind a northerner

Rotherham, South Yorkshire

Look at the terminals as they come out of the connector. One goes onto the body of the pump, that's the earth.

On 11th Feb, 2015 robert said:
i tried putting soap on it , and heating it to brown , then slathered my new lube on it

*hehe!*


Nick warwick

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Sheffield




On 17th Mar, 2014 apbellamy said:
Look at the terminals as they come out of the connector. One goes onto the body of the pump, that's the earth.


Righto! will check this tonight. Thanks.


Nick warwick

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Sheffield




On 17th Mar, 2014 apbellamy said:
Look at the terminals as they come out of the connector. One goes onto the body of the pump, that's the earth.


You are right, the silver connector is connected to the pump so is the earth.

Started to wire my MJ in last night, how does the grey wire connect to the rev counter? or does it replace the existing wire?

For the crank sensor position is it piston 1 at TDC which should make the pulley be at 90 degrees off?

Thanks


Nick warwick

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Sheffield



Had the actuator bracket rewelded and adjusted my oil return (which hopefully still clears the bulkhead)


Nick warwick

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Sheffield

i want to remove this lug off the turbo, do you think i will be alright doing this? it doesn't seem to do anything and it will give me more clearance if gone.


eden7842

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leicestershire

I'd just grind it back slightly,

also I'd twist your turbo housing back slightly as it looks like it's very close to the manifold where the silicone hose will join. So it may melt the pipe

13.95 1/4 mile on a 2.95 fd. Carnt be that hard to beat!


Nick warwick

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Sheffield

UPDATE!

Now have a gt17 turbo *happy* still having a nightmare sorting the oil drain! Right bastard


Nick warwick

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Sheffield

Had to grind the block and turbo back a little for the turbo to clear it.


Coming together nice now, nothings bolted in but it all fits fine.


How are you guys running a GT17 mounting the actuator? I am guessing the tab will need welding to the other side to be able to mount it here?

Edited by Nick warwick on 1st Apr, 2014.


Nick warwick

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Sheffield

Wired in my gauges. Also found out i had some dodgy wiring on my headlights switch that was on the brink of a fire!



Test fitting my TT cooler



Working out the maze of pipe work that i ordered last night :) as you can tell i am excellent at drawing.


Nick warwick

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Sheffield

I should be able to start the engine for the first time this weekend!

Some of my intercooler pipes might not be here in time but can i still start the engine with it all disconnected? Or just connect up the compressor housing to the plenum?

Also what would the disadvantage be of not using the water turbo feed be? I am struggling to get the adaptor in the back of the block now as the downpipe intrudes over it too much.


matty

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Turbo Love Palace Fool

Aylesbury

Use the water take off on the bottom hose, originally for the heater as the feed for the turbo, then return it to the top of the rad. It'll keep all of the hoses the other side of the engine.

It'll help keep the oil in the turbo cooler, but at the same time put additional heat into the coolant system. Definitely worth fitting if the cooling system can cope with additional heat (as long as you're using a decent rad it should be a problem).

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fusion-Fabri..._homepage_panel

www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi


lee.pb

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Lancashire


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-4-BSP-BANJO-FO...=item5afc4f89de

This may help with your clearance issue.

On 8th Apr, 2014 Nick warwick said:
Also what would the disadvantage be of not using the water turbo feed be? I am struggling to get the adaptor in the back of the block now as the downpipe intrudes over it too much.

What the mind can conceive the mini can achieve
MITP 2012 17.01 seconds 1/4 mile against "The Don"
MITP 2013 16.83 seconds 1/4 mile


Nick warwick

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Sheffield

Thanks Matt

Lee i think that would be perfect! cheers mate.

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