Project "Marginal gains..."
Turbo Mini Forums

So the steering rack is tidied up

I've been collecting some different rack bars and pinions as this gives me a choice of different ratios




The pinion end of the rack body has had most of the unused casting turned off, but still some bits to linish off





The plan is to use some milled rack clamps to mount to the subframe which will allow shimming of the rack assembly to fine tune the required level of bumpsteer.

Cheers

Edited by Aubrey_Boy on 18th Oct, 2017.

I have been running simulations trying to figure out the bumpsteer, still trying a few variants but narrowing it

Cheers

Edited by Aubrey_Boy on 3rd Dec, 2014.

Blimy... All a bit f1 this

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!

Not really. It is absolutely necessary to understand what you are doing when you alter the steering and the minimising of bump steer is basic.

Without using maths or CAD it is easy enough to remove the springing medium and then move the suspension through its travel and just observe what happens to the wheels. Shortening the rack I entrusted to a coded welder, but its position was established by the above and by experiment.

BTW I had drilled so many holes to mount the rack in different positions,trying to find the right one, I had to remake the entire firewall !

That is very intersting. Thanks for sharing.

Makes me feel inadequate ... :)

Edited by gr4h4m on 19th Jul, 2013.

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!

hmmm maybe a cure for the 60 mph overtaking on full power darting all over the rd im sure we have all experienced .

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

removing of the rubber from your suspension will cure that, simple as that

WWW.FORCE-RACING.CO.UK PLEASE CLICK HERE

if only carl..i have solid sub mounts rose jointed bottom arms ,poly bush tie bars . solid beam rear.

camber change in the rd is very effective at creating a 'am I going to knock off the car im overtaking door handle' .

on the flat its fine (pretty much) its basically too much offset on the wheels at 13mm. it needs to be 35mm.

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

It is still non linear in character and about double the amount I intend to start with, and has about 1.5 times more bumpsteer in rebound than in bump



Cheers

Edited by Aubrey_Boy on 14th Jul, 2017.

Standard mini suspension does have move bump steer near normal ride height, it tails off the more bump is applied, but even as it stands it is manageable and easily minimised,

two years a go I had to re engineer a very well known space framed racer as it had over 50mm of bump steer per wheel, and had apparently been like this form leaving the factory, no wonder it never performed very well in its 13 years service un until recently,

the work I did was basically to get the thing to work as best I could with the parts fitted to it, then make new parts to finalise the job but the then owner sold it on ,


carl

WWW.FORCE-RACING.CO.UK PLEASE CLICK HERE

that does not look good for the stock mini,

the horizontal lines ,are they I degree per step ?

also , how much movement up and down is used for the left to right scale ?

unless I have got myself all mixed up !

Edited by robert on 18th Oct, 2017.

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

I did think of using a bodge often used on hot rods - just make the rack as short as possible so that the longer track rod length ameliorates (lovely word that Robert can probably "improve "on) bump steer effects.

This obviously has other effects, such as limiting lock.

absolutely agree david , I was wondering if I could adapt my astra rack , this has the arms connected to the middle of the rack so they are about 2 ft long and reduce the arc massively.

ps ameliorates is one of my favourite words ...so much so that v has it in the title of one of her blogs!
see you at avon david ....spud to blobule ahoy.

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

Robert,

With the standard Mini rack as best I could to get the bumpsteer I wanted, so representative of no more than that - it doesn't infer a std Mini rack is bad it just didn't suit what I had done with the rest of the stuff.

I will send you PM if that's OK instead of writing a tome here

Cheers

Edited by Aubrey_Boy on 3rd Dec, 2014.

that would be great,

funnily enough , I have always linked the feeling in my car as being associated with tracking changing under power/aerodynamic lift .

also the added scrub radius change as the tyres follow differently cambered surfaces and the contact patch on the wheel effectively moves across the face of the tyre differently per side ..

using the longer metro steering arms seemed to help denis a lot .


note generally the feedback from passengers is that my car handles pretty well . I may be just a bit picky. but that 90 mph overtake on a cambered rd is ridiculously like threading a needle lol

Edited by robert on 18th Oct, 2017.

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

Robert,

You should have PM's, sorry one seems to have been sent twice

Cheers

Doing a few bitsa jobs while I wait for some more parts to be made

Got hold of some nice 1/4 turn fasteners, they are made by Tridair, more commonly known as live-locks, they have a nice ratcheting action an are very small and lightweight used for stuff like F1 bodywork.



I have made provision to keep the ICV and to do so with ITB's then you have to tap into all 4 runners but I wanted to avoid having 4 hoses feeding a vacuum block and all the potential for leaks at each join, plus I think it looks tidier this way, it may not work but is quite easy to undo if it doesn't


I still need to linish the inside of the runners to smooth the protrusions back



Started to mock up some of the fuel system and the engine wiring loom



Slight change of plans as I had previously intended to put the connectors on the top face of the bulkhead crossmember but it seemed to make more sense to leave this space for other stuff due to the overall lack of space.



Cheers

Edited by Aubrey_Boy on 18th Oct, 2017.

very neat.

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

Cheers Robert,

It's got to change a bit again as in my quest to try and hide stuff and keep these sensors all in the same area as the ITBs I have connected my fuel pressure / fuel temp transducers to the return side of the fuel press reg

Just trying to keep the bulkhead area clear for all the other stuff which I will need to find a home for

Cheers

I'm liking this thread a lot!

Great stuff!

In the 13's at last!.. Just

Thanks for the comments, cheers,

So I got the fuel sensor/s positioning a bit wrong...

The pressure transducer and the fuel temp sensor are now in a position where they will see rail pressure



Not quite as 'tidy' but at least it is functional, I need to finalise the position of these so I can finish off the various parts of the engine loom - I keep putting it off as I know if I do it too early I may need to reposition a few things and the loom lengths will change - but I have got to bite the bullet some time.



Not completely sure where the breather tank will live I hope to put it down the back of the block and fit with a tap so it can be easily drained as access will be a challenge, so it is currently routed to this area.

I have deliberately made all of the lower half of the inlet runner layout common to both ITBs and a single TB so I don't have to change all of this irrespective of which I use

Cheers

Edited by Aubrey_Boy on 14th Jul, 2017.

Your build is excellent, real nice attention to detail.
Live-locks are really good, we use them at work with the counter sunk heads, colour coded and you barely notice they are there. Plus I like the satisfying ratchet noise/ feel they have too.

Hi Jake,

Thanks for the comments

The live-locks are really useful, I will use them for my dash and if I make the front end removable (I say 'if' but I don't think I have much choice)

They make access so much quicker and easier, plus being MIL spec they don't just undo themselves and things fall off!

Cheers

Edited by Aubrey_Boy on 6th Aug, 2013.