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bosroamer

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41 Posts
Member #: 1981
Member

the Netherlands

Guys,

still desperately trying to find a GT1752 I ran into a GT1749. Is this any good on a 1000-engine with 8-valve bimmer head?

Strange btw that you cannot find any specs of the GT1752 nor the GT1749 on the Garrett-site.

On 8th Aug, 2010 Brett said:
Carl worked my bottom end, cannot fault the workmanship its spot on, a good old chinwag too :)


matty

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8297 Posts
Member #: 408
Turbo Love Palace Fool

Aylesbury

Here's a nice shiney one! :)

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Brand-NEW-Saab-93-an...1QQcmdZViewItem

Or if your feeling lucky?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/saab-95-turbocharger...1QQcmdZViewItem

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fusion-Fabri..._homepage_panel

www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi


robert

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6745 Posts
Member #: 828
Post Whore

uranus

there are a few diff 1749 do you have a part no bos ?

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM


bosroamer

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41 Posts
Member #: 1981
Member

the Netherlands

no, unfortunately not, the guy just gave me 1749 but does not seem to have the intelligence to supply me with more details.

Ik looked it up and it seems to be the turbocharger which is used in all the 1.9 VAG-diesels.

I do not have "the knowledege" (yet!) off all this turbo-stuff but on the Garrett-site it says;

A Guide To Garrett’s "GT" Model Numbers

GTxxyyzz:

* Positions "xx" refers to the frame size of the turbine wheel inducer.
o For example the "GT28" in "GT2860RS" refers to its turbine wheel frame size family. All GT28 units use a turbine wheel with 53.85mm inducer diameter
o As a rule of thumb, the larger the number, the larger the turbine wheel.
* Positions "yy" designate the compressor wheel exducer (major) diameter in millimeters
o The "60" in the GT2860RS example above has a 60mm compressor wheel exducer diameter.
o Note: Wheel sizes 100mm and over omit the "1" (hundreds digit)
o Example: the 02 in a GT4202 refers to its 102mm compressor wheel exducer diameter


Which tells us that the compressor wheel exducer (major) of the 1749 is 3 mm smaller than the 1752.

But what the h*ll does that mean?

On 8th Aug, 2010 Brett said:
Carl worked my bottom end, cannot fault the workmanship its spot on, a good old chinwag too :)


joeybaby83

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6274 Posts
Member #: 509
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Isle of Man

can you put an 8 valve bimmer head on a thou?

i was of the impression this wasnt possible?

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"



robert

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6745 Posts
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uranus

i think that may be a vnt turbo ,thats a technical challenge to get running right and may not be what you want .do a google on vnt.

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM


stevieturbo

3588 Posts
Member #: 655
Post Whore

Northern Ireland

Slightly irrelevant....

But I measured up a Subaru TD04 the other day.

Minor 40.6mm
Major 56mm
and 20.9mm tall compressor wheel.

Dinky little thing. But good for 250bhp or so on a Subaru..maybe a tad more at a push.

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will


wil_h

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9258 Posts
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Betwix Harrogate and York

On 26th of Nov, 2007 at 11:50pm joeybaby83 said:
can you put an 8 valve bimmer head on a thou?

i was of the impression this wasnt possible?


It's not possible to get the 16 valver on, but I think the 8v will fit

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

www.twin-turbo.co.uk

On 2nd Jan, 2013 fastcarl said:

the design shows a distinct lack of imagination,
talk about starting off with a clean sheet of paper, then not bothering to fucking draw on it,lol

On 20th Apr, 2012 Paul S said:
I'm mainly concerned about swirl in the runners caused by the tangential entry.


Paul S

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8604 Posts
Member #: 573
Formerly Axel

Podland

On 27th of Nov, 2007 at 07:55am wil_h said:
On 26th of Nov, 2007 at 11:50pm joeybaby83 said:
can you put an 8 valve bimmer head on a thou?

i was of the impression this wasnt possible?


It's not possible to get the 16 valver on, but I think the 8v will fit


The original conversion was a K100 head on a 850 block offset bored to 68mm and a stroked 998 crank giving 1071cc.

So in theory, using +0.080 pistons (66.6mm) from Minispares when they get the rings in stock, it should be possible.

The GT1752 would be a good choice, assuming that you can rev it to 7500 rpm and live with the 285 cams.

Biggest problem is getting the compression down.

Edited by Paul S on 27th Nov, 2007.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


matty

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8297 Posts
Member #: 408
Turbo Love Palace Fool

Aylesbury

Its ALOT of effort to put an 8 Valve head on nd TBH if your going for big power surely you'd be better off using a 1275 block to start with?

I beleive the 8V heads have 24cc chambers as opposed to the 18cc of the 16V so CR shouldn't be a problem if your using an 8V head and a "reasonable" bore size.

My CR is 8.8:1 on +20 bore and there is a few CC's left to be taken out the head and pistons if need be *wink*

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fusion-Fabri..._homepage_panel

www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi


bosroamer

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41 Posts
Member #: 1981
Member

the Netherlands

Got a serial-number from the GT1749;

9654919580

more numbers; 753556-2 HI200391F

Reason I'm going for the bimmer on a 1000 is that I allways wanted to restore my original engine but then add some grunt.

I could go for a 16v on my 1310 engine, but if it ain't broke then don't try to fix it. First upgrade the 1000, put in in the car and then we'll see if we have enough spirit to do a 16v conversion on the 1310 also.

Anybody got any clue with the serial numbers?

The identity tag also states "made in France" that gives me the shizzles.
In Holland we always say; France is a nice country, to bad French people live in it*wink*

On 8th Aug, 2010 Brett said:
Carl worked my bottom end, cannot fault the workmanship its spot on, a good old chinwag too :)


robert

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6745 Posts
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uranus

yep thats a vnt off a peugoet or citroen , perhaps not the best choice at the moment

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM


Star Mag

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1745 Posts
Member #: 375
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Leicestershire

Just managed to get hold of a gt1752 brand new for £50 dont know if its of use but was cheap and worth the punt The numbers on the casing are 55560913 j1303027 can anybody shed any light?


Joe C

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12307 Posts
Member #: 565
Carlos Fandango

Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex

if its a 1752 it shpuld be good.

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/



tommyb

81 Posts
Member #: 934
Advanced Member

halifax, west yorks

its a saab one, a nice find at that price!


Rob H

4314 Posts
Member #: 700
Formerly British Open Classic

The West Country

Dam you guys, I was going to say it was useless and offer to buy it of Star Mag for the £50 he paid.

Isambard Kingdom Brunel said:
Nothing is impossible if you are an Engineer


Star Mag

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1745 Posts
Member #: 375
Post Whore

Leicestershire

Well it hasnt gone on the mini yet i have put it on my r5 as my t2 hybrid thing was smoking badly! It seems to be a stonking little turbo! Currently running at 18 psi it boosts from just over 2000rpm and boost hard until about 6500rpm its very similar to my old T2 that had a slighty bigger compressor wheel but with lots more grunt! cant wait to try it on the mini!


Sir Yun

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510 Posts
Member #: 1592
Smart Guy!

mainland europe near ze germans

Re succumbed to the hairdryer thingie...

and been huntin' for a suitable one
so after a few odd ones volvo, diesel gt1544v..


i seemed to have found a saab 9.3 gt1752, petrol one.. but not for 50 quid.. more like 100. have to haggle a bit..looks mint btw.

how do i find out if surge is a problem at alpine alititude ?

i know Paul has estimated a map.. i guess that is my best bet then?

That sir, is not rust, it is the progressive mass reduction system

http://aseriesmodifications.wordpress.com/


robert

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uranus

bit more info on this turbo ,

the car ran 104mph terminal at avon ,14 psi across the line ,and a momentary glitch at 17 psi ,

substantial surge of power going from 12 to 17 psi ,even though it was at 14.7 to air fuel ratio... which is not safe at all ...
very promising ,estimate power from that terminal at 185/190 . :)

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM


Paul S

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8604 Posts
Member #: 573
Formerly Axel

Podland

Did you have to rebuild or replace the turbo at any time this year?

There seems to be a consensus of opinion that the Gt17 is not as robust as the T2/3 or is it just people having trouble with rebuilding them. Maybe just my imagination.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Bat

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Bermingum

Hi,
From what I read, people on here seem to think balancing is essential after rebuild as the core assy is lighter and therefore more suseptable (sp?) to out of balance problems...
Cheers,
Gavin :)

VEMs Authorised Installer / Re-seller. K head kits now available!

WB/EGT gauges. Click here for customers write-up

Visit www.doyouneedabrain.co.uk

My Mini build diary


matty

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8297 Posts
Member #: 408
Turbo Love Palace Fool

Aylesbury


I would say balancing is a must, and the fitment of a dump valve aswell!

On 12th Oct, 2008 Bat said:
Hi,
From what I read, people on here seem to think balancing is essential after rebuild as the core assy is lighter and therefore more suseptable (sp?) to out of balance problems...
Cheers,
Gavin :)

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fusion-Fabri..._homepage_panel

www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi


Sprocket

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Preston On The Brook

Ok chaps, I am officialy a lazy twat and can't be arsed reading through 9 pages of technofobia.

How the fuck to you seperate the exhaust housing from the cartridge? Is there anything else to be removed other than the four bolts and the clamp plates? I am currently soaking the join in PlusGas, but its not going to budge.

Just asking before I put my elbow behind it and give it some force. I dont think there is, but want to be sure before I break it any more than it already is.

On 26th Oct, 2004 TurboDave16v said:
Is it A-Series only? I think it should be...
So when some joey comes on here about how his 16v turbo vauxhall is great compared to ours, he can be given the 'bird'...


On 26th Oct, 2004 Tom Fenton said:
Yep I agree with TD........


Rob H

4314 Posts
Member #: 700
Formerly British Open Classic

The West Country

My goosed GT17 simply came apart when I removed the four bolts, the decent one is a real pig and after weeks of abuse & cans of plus gas I still can't get the dam housing off.

Edited by Rob H on 18th Aug, 2009.

Isambard Kingdom Brunel said:
Nothing is impossible if you are an Engineer


Paul S

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8604 Posts
Member #: 573
Formerly Axel

Podland

I had to give mine a hefty thump with the BFH to get it off.

Hit the lumpy bit on the flange to get it to rotate first.

Then file the damaged flange flat afters :$

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."

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