Josh's turbo 1098cc carburetion sucks lets try EFI
Turbo Mini Forums

scratch that started reading the link and it says any power supply will do 9V to 14V and from 300mA to 1000mA

The connector is what is referred to over here as a 2.1mm type (they measure the diameter of the small pin, not the larger outside diameter) and the centre pin is positive.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

And, there's a diode on the PCB immediately after the power socket to prevent any damage from reverse polarity.

The easiest way to damage them is to accidentally lay them on anything metallic when they are powered up (the CPU which does the wheel simulations is a 3.3V CPU so if any of the 12V or 5V tracks get bridged to the CPU by anything metallic, it's toast....)

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

just went junk draw fishing n bagged one that fits and works so all is well = )

i better start to read up then ask stupid questions when i actuality cant find the answer!

Ahhh, the good old milk crate, haven't used one in years! Don't know about the crocs though...

yep a must have in the shop!
store parts in
stack able
free from the local corner shop... err i mean you can buy factory seconds cheep...
i had the mini siting on 8 crates (two high) for the re spray now i think of it..
make good seats and step ladders as well


i got a bit done today
sorted the exhaust mounts and supports also got that last flange and "reducer" well if you can call it that the pipe goes straight throw it the reducer part is just to mount the flange to pipe lol stupid 2.5" hole in the flange couldn't find a 2" one! anyway the size in the turbo housing meats and blends into the ex system well without steps or edges so thats what really matters


the finishing touches to the exhaust system will be the wide-band O2 sensor sample chambers yet to make them and decide the best angle and distance from turbo?

need to find some 7mm od threaded rod and 7mm id tube for my coil mounting bracket no space to mount them where i wanted to so to the fire wall it is

the flaps to allow air to free flow at highway speeds as the fan will become restrictive at some point!
the fan dose pull them shut when it on by the way its only soft rubber

clearance is tight but should be ok

think ill replace my thumb with steel rod and a plate to support the rad..

you can also see the oil cooler hiding down low hopefully the lower side is in the low pressure under the car?
you can also see the oil filter down below the alternator and next to the water pump pulley made some clearance to the frame dont want to go ripping that off!

i decided to use the factory water pump as im running out of space for crap tho thats partly self inflicted!
kinder getting there slowly

well ive gotten my jimstim and build it all up think ive gotten things set up correctly
when set up for coil near plug should the spark outputs be abcd or like a+c then b+d is there a way to get them firing individually rather than in pairs?
to start with ill be using ms just for ignition, auxiliary functions and logging then once im more comfortable with tuner studio ill be using it to do injection and the cool stuff like water injection lots to learn before that tho!!

managed to get the solid 5/16 fuel lines in today all bent in one length of pipe from the fire wall just under the bulk head/cross member bit all the way behind the rea subby up to the boot floor a totally frustrating job!
had to start at the rea subby and insert the pipe at 90 dergese to the car then rotate it back pull a loop down from the floor and poke it up the fire wall whilst making a million tiny temporary bends along the way but its done and im happy with the result
tomorrow ill install and plumb the tanks also find me a pump then i can cross the fuel system off the list!

ordered the other part of my intercooler and some boost/coolant pipes and a few other bits
few things to do once i dismantal the mock up engine like finish welding brackets and fiddly bits

only small progress but its still progress

Ignition outputs on the MS3X as follows

A > 1
B > 3
C > 4
D > 2

You will need coils with on-board igniters.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."

i see you change what ms gives out when wiring up the coils to the cylinders
i seem to only get the pattern A+C together and B+D together showing on the jimstim rather than what you have said?
these are the coils ive chosen its says that ms3x will run them directly? http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/ign1a-r...coil-p-394.html

should mention im only messing around with the stims and not yet wired up anything properly as im waiting to finish the fabrication work

The JimStim in it's basic form only shows (ie, the top 4 LEDs) what a very basic MS1/2 gives out because it only plugs into your MS1/2/3 box via the 37 way connector.

For all the advanced configurations, ie, MS2E, MS3, MS3X, that either use some of the spare pins on the 37 way connector, or have additional connectors (like MS3X) that is why it has the two large connector blocks and the pin headers so you can route all the extra features back to the spare LEDs or really just do anything you want....

So in your case, to see the individual coils/sparks you need to route jumper wires from the MS3X pins Paul has mentioned back to 4 of the first 6 pins (the ones next to the red LEDs) on the smaller 10 way pin header.

And you also need to configure the secondary tach on the JimStim to match whatever input you are using on your MS3 setup and put the settings in TunerStudio for a COP setup.

As well as Jean's website I gave you the link for earlier, he has a discussion forum http://forum.jbperf.com/index.php where you might find tips on setting the JimStim up to get the best for your install.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

Those coils are expensive.

I use the GM D585 coils. You can get them off ebay:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HERKO-IGNITION-C...=item58a43a9e3e

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."

o well ive already got them. so long as they do what the need to im happy

im not sure i under stand
on the top 37 pin plug you have a-h outputs with leds for both spark and fuel i have dip switch 3 active or i dont get the fuel

on the bottom 37 pin plug ive got the jumper from tach out put to 2nd trigger aswell as both jumpers for a 5v pull up those are running parrall with the main chip and the cam selection jumper is towards the pots the other jumper is the wide band one 3rd dip switch is on for the 36-1 aswell

do i need the leds on the lower bord for spark aswell? thought the top bord did the extra spark n fuel stuff

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

ok ive got both boards so just a case of setting it up correctly
ive taken some pics just to clear up any of my crappy explanations haha

OK, I thought you had just bought the JimStim by itself.

That additional board is bling but a bit of overkill (in my own opinion of course...)

Back to the setup, no, your jumper wire does not go like that.....

From Jean's website, the tach jumper locations,



The three together are for setting the primary tach as hall or VR, I'm assuming VR, so this,



The secondary, the single pin, gets routed to whichever input you are using on your setup.

If you are using the original extra input on the mainboard itself (as I do with MS2-E) you take it to either SPR1, SPR2, SPR3, SPR4 on the screw connector blocks or long row of pins (where they are labelled SP1 etc.), whichever one has been wired up at the lower DB37 for the secondary input.

If you are using the additional conditioner circuit on the MS3X board, you take it up to pin 32 on the other connector.

So the question is, how is your MS3 built/configured.

Last couple of points,
You might want to set the DIP switch 7 on the JimStim the other way - depending whether you are simulating a going low or going high input. Also I connect another jumper from the secondary tach over to one of the 6 spare LEDs so I can see the input is working when expected (although the additional board you have may already do that).
And you currently have both primary and secondary pullup set to 5V. Again, depending on what your actual input is (VR or Hall) the 12V might be better.

(EDIT - missed a bit).

Edited by Rod S on 27th Oct, 2013.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

ok ive just read the set up page for the wheel again and i think ive allmost got it correct lol

ill be using two hall type sensors one for crank and one for cam so that means ill need the square wave simulation right?
then the leftover tach pin part of that same line of pins also right next to no 1 dip switch is hooked to the 2nd trigger as per pics above
the part i think ive gotten wrong is do i need the primary or secondary pull up also 5v or 12v lol as you point out i have both p and s jumped for 5v...
do i need both p and s as im useing both wheel sims?

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

yess both hall type sensors so dose that mean ive got it correct (the jumpers in the above pics)

yess i will most deffanlatyly be running staged ingection or at least injecting depending on how much fuel i need to make the power
ill fire it up and run the cam/engine in on the bench/stand with the 123 electronic disy and std std type coil then once the 30-45 min cam brake in is done ill plug in the coil near plug in and take it for some short squirts with no boost just the get it under load and vacume condisions (ie accenllarate then decallartate under the engines resistance and repeate)
anyway im gettign off topic!

i did not build my ms as for the small percantage diffrence bettween diy and pre build i though it be better to not run the risk of cocking it up altho im fearly comfortable with pcb work any way i chose to buy the pre built MS3Xv3.57 so thats what ive got



also on a side note i got me an efi pump all be it a submerged type that puts out 70psi so tomos ill look at building a gravity feed (directly under the tanks) pot/small tank the house it in
got the top rad mounts sorted finally and the oil thermostat is mounted along side the cooler just need some fittings for the block and i can tick another thing off the list

As you are using the V3.57 mainboard I assume you will be using the MS3X card for the cam input (configuring a V3.57 board for all the extras (like cam) is nowhere near as easy as a V3.0).

In which case you jumper the secondary tach pin on the JimStim straight up to the MS3X socket. It would be pin 32 but you will have that pretty LED array plugged in but the spec sheet for it does say it includes a connector (on the LED card) for the secondary tach (cam). I can't actually see it on the photo as it's too small but hopefully it's clearly marked.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

Don't forget that the recommended connection method for a crank hall sensor on MS3 is through the VR circuit. That's how mine is connected on my V3.0 board.

How do you select the VR or hall/opto circuit on the V3.57 board?

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."

Edited by Rod S on 28th Oct, 2013.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

Rod, you don't need the pull-up resistor in R57 if you are using a hall sensor with an internal pull-up.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."

Paul, good point.....

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

so at the the way ive got it set up its just useing the crank angle and not seeing the cam due to the cam beeing on the top 37 pin vs the wheel simulator makeing both signals on the lowwer 37 pin.. ill have a play and see if i can jump the 2nd tach signal up to the cam pin in the top plug migh need to solder a pin on as i dont rember any pins being put in the top bord..

id not have thought id need to open the ms3x box at all thats kinder why id bought it in the first place...

right ive just soldered in the pin for cam input on the top bord and jumped the 2nd triger to the new pin and bam its fireing each coil at a time abcd abcd YAY! so when its wired i just hook it up as said by paul A > 1 B > 3 C > 4 D > 2 and away we go hopefully haha

on a side note is it ok to not use the internal waste gate in the old t3 and blank the hole in the houseing if you know what im trying to explain... and use a recerculating cold side valve?
my under standing is that the turbine will build rpms as more exhaust gass flows and the cold side valve is just dumping the exsive boost and letting the turbo contune to spool at what ever rate the gasses can push it at? so i guess what im asking is.. is it ok to have the turbo spin up to what ever rpm is can with the exhaust gasses its being feed and just dump the boost it makes to get what im looking for as a boost figure?
i can under stand that the turbo rpm as an effect on its efficancy so whould this setup help it or hinder it lol im no expert on this stuff!!
id think id get a nice turbo spool sound with this type/methord of boost contorls my concern is that id push the turbo into rpms that are not efficent and just make excive heat and other nastys ?? id prefer tu take this route of cold side boost controle..