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Home > Show Us Yours! > Massive, uneconomical, rusty project

Jay#2

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2500 Posts
Member #: 648
Post Whore

Northern Ireland (ex AUS)

After looking at how neatly yours has come together I am realising I should have invested in a spot welder. Of course I can see how hard you worked on this too, top job!

On 7th Nov, 2008 Nic said:
naeJ
m
!!!!!!sdrawkcab si gnihtyreve ?droabyekym ot deneppah sah tahw ayhwdd


Flame Red

288 Posts
Member #: 6267
Senior Member

Bristol

I was thinking about putting the MPI pump in the 5.5 gallon tank, I expect it isn't wide enough though, I'll have a look tomorrow. Otherwise it might be sensible to leave the boot board brackets off.

The spot welder is essential if you are replacing this many panels, I've found grinding down the plug welds tedious as it is and I haven't used many. It is still less tidy than a new shell but this is my first restoration so I'll just have to accept it won't be perfect.


Flame Red

288 Posts
Member #: 6267
Senior Member

Bristol

I don't think it looks possible to fit the MPI pump in the 5.5 Gallon tank, it is a lot smaller.
IMG_0412 by Matt4475, on Flickr
Is there such a thing a universal internal pump kit? I can't find one.

I'm thinking I will fit 2 pipes to the top of a 5.5 gallon tank (feed and return) and use the outlet on the bottom to balance the left and right tanks. My thinking is that if I feed from both tanks as per Cooper S but only return to the left tank, I could cause it to overflow. If I feed and return to the same tank then that shouldn't be a problem. Will it cause any problems having the pump drawing the fuel the height of the tank? I'd rather do it that way as it seems safer to add a pipe to the top of the tank rather than the bottom.

Edited by Flame Red on 12th Jul, 2017.


Flame Red

288 Posts
Member #: 6267
Senior Member

Bristol

Having looked into this a bit more I'm thinking about fitting the MPI pump to the flat side of the tank (I think that might be what you were suggesting Matty) and modifying the pipes to suite. I can't see any reason it wouldn't work, I'm just slightly concerned about having such a large hole submerged in fuel most of the time.


apbellamy

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16540 Posts
Member #: 4241
King Gaycharger, butt plug dealer, Sheldon Cooper and a BAC but generally a niceish fella if you dont mind a northerner

Rotherham, South Yorkshire

Make a custom plate to hold the mpi pump in the top of the tank. I would say the factory one is round for convenience, but it could definitely be made a smaller/more convenient shape to fit the other tank.

On 11th Feb, 2015 robert said:
i tried putting soap on it , and heating it to brown , then slathered my new lube on it

*hehe!*


Flame Red

288 Posts
Member #: 6267
Senior Member

Bristol

I have just taken the pump out of the MPI tank and it does not seal on the flat surface but on a swaged lip. I could cut that part of the tank out and weld it into a 5.5 gallon one but I don't think I really want to. I think I'll weld a feed and return on and use an external pump. There is plenty of space on the rear subframe for a pump anyway.


Tom Fenton
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15300 Posts
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Fearless Tom Fenton, Avon Park 2007 & 2008 class D winner

&

TM legend.

Rotherham South Yorkshire

The MPI "pump" top round bit is only really a seal plate to carry the pipes and electrical connection through, and a bracket on the inside for the pump.
I am sure a man of your talent could make a smaller, rectangular version to fit in the top of the 5.5 gall tank.


On 29th Nov, 2016 madmk1 said:


On 28th Nov, 2016 Rob Gavin said:
I refuse to pay for anything else


Like fuel 😂😂


matty

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8297 Posts
Member #: 408
Turbo Love Palace Fool

Aylesbury

Yeah I meant mount it on the horizontal face, but I can understand your concern about it not sealing well enough. *oh well*

For neatness an internal pump is nice, but by the looks of things alot more work than fitting an external pump.

I think a custom top plate would probably be your only option.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fusion-Fabri..._homepage_panel

www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi


Flame Red

288 Posts
Member #: 6267
Senior Member

Bristol

A custom top plate is worth considering, the only difficulty I can see is that it would have to curve to match the contor of the tank which could be difficult to get right with a thick enough plate. The other thing would be making a gasket, easy enough if I could find the right material.


Flame Red

288 Posts
Member #: 6267
Senior Member

Bristol

Boot board brackets fitted, they are the raised height ones and I've made sure they clear a 10x6. They do make fitting a standard boot board very difficult but I'll be making one anyway. I borrowed a couple of bits from my Cooper to make sure I got it correct. The Cooper does seem to have a smaller spare wheel well though, I wasn't aware the size of it changed.
DSC_0108 by Matt4475, on Flickr
DSC_0109 by Matt4475, on Flickr
I'll deal with the fuel pump another time.

Edited by Flame Red on 12th Jul, 2017.


Flame Red

288 Posts
Member #: 6267
Senior Member

Bristol

Well, I think the passenger door finally fits (I might have had to use a body jack!)
DSC_0188 by Matt4475, on Flickr
DSC_0190 by Matt4475, on Flickr
Lesson learned though, check the door fit before you weld everything up!

Edited by Flame Red on 12th Jul, 2017.


Flame Red

288 Posts
Member #: 6267
Senior Member

Bristol

I've removed the tank strap bracket and fitted a left hand tank stand, I could have kept the diagonal strap and used a tank from a 76-80 basic spec Mini but I preferred the look of doing it this way.
DSC_0197 by Matt4475, on Flickr
I have also fitted the bulkhead bracket for the right hand tank.
DSC_0195 by Matt4475, on Flickr
DSC_0198 by Matt4475, on Flickr
Then, as a perfect demonstration of why the shell still isn't finished, I've rounded the corners on the bottom of the doors. They already had skins on which had also been bonded on making it really difficult to unfold the skin and cut the door. I wish I'd re-skinned my own doors now as I could also have adjusted the door gaps a little as well.
DSC_0215 by Matt4475, on Flickr
DSC_0217 by Matt4475, on Flickr

Edited by Flame Red on 12th Jul, 2017.


Flame Red

288 Posts
Member #: 6267
Senior Member

Bristol

Doors fitted (it has taken me since December to do this, I have been ignoring it for a while though)
DSC_0220 by Matt4475, on Flickr
DSC_0221 by Matt4475, on Flickr
I checked the boot lid fitted, nice to see that it does but then it is an original so I did expect it to.
DSC_0222 by Matt4475, on Flickr
I have no usable hinges which is why it's just placed, I'm trying to find some early style NOS ones.
Somehow having doors fitted makes the shell look a lot more complete.
DSC_0226 by Matt4475, on Flickr
I've started to match the curve of the door to the shell, it was the only way I could think of to do it. It does look a bit crude but square edge doors with external hinges just look wrong. I would have been so much better off starting with a Mk1, I expect it would have been cheaper as well.
DSC_0228 by Matt4475, on Flickr

Edited by Flame Red on 12th Jul, 2017.


matty

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8297 Posts
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Turbo Love Palace Fool

Aylesbury

Thats looking good!

The only other way of doing it would be to use mk1 A panels with built in door posts, but then you would still have to modify the B posts to get the rear curve. *oh well*

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fusion-Fabri..._homepage_panel

www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi


Flame Red

288 Posts
Member #: 6267
Senior Member

Bristol

The mk1/2 A panel and A post are just too different, the profile of the door step is different as well. I could have used an A panel from a Mk1 but I would have to make the A post, there has got to be a point at which I accept it is just not worth the effort involved. Part of the problem is that I didn't start out with the intention of building a Mk1 replica, I simply wanted to repair what I had as quickly as possible. In hindsight it probably wasn't worth repairing and if I'd wanted a Mk1 I should have just bought one. The only reason I decided to repair this is because it was my first car and I could not bring myself to scrap it.

If I was starting again with the plans I have now then I would have bought complete Mk1 body sides, it is the only way to make a convincing replica.


Flame Red

288 Posts
Member #: 6267
Senior Member

Bristol

I seem to have spent many hours on this but have little worth showing. I've welded up the holes for the fresh air vents, I wish I'd decided to do that before I put the inner wings on. I still have to weld up all of the lower dash panel which is going to be a lot of work for what it achieves. I've also spent hours 'correcting' the door gap to the A panel by welding gas welding rods up the entire length and then grinding them back to get the correct gap. No pictures but it just looks how it should have done if I'd done it right in the first place.

I have managed to get the wheel arches fitted, mainly so I can see how much to trim from the leading edge of the front arch so the wheels don't catch, but I thought I may as well fit the rears so the holes are in place before it's painted.
IMG_0416 by Matt4475, on Flickr
IMG_0417 by Matt4475, on Flickr
I've put my very limited panel beating skills to use trimming the and reshaping the front arch on the driver's side, it looks better than the first time I did it 3 years ago so I suppose that's something.
IMG_0418 by Matt4475, on Flickr
IMG_0419 by Matt4475, on Flickr

Edited by Flame Red on 12th Jul, 2017.


analogue_radio

275 Posts
Member #: 4600
Senior Member

Melton Mowbray,
near Leicester

How is the grease nipple shroud fitted?


Flame Red

288 Posts
Member #: 6267
Senior Member

Bristol

On 7th Aug, 2011 analogue_radio said:
How is the grease nipple shroud fitted?


With 2 screws, it is a self tapping pozi drive pan head screw underneath and a pozi drive pan head machine screw on the edge of the sill, so you'll need to put one captive nut in each side.


Flame Red

288 Posts
Member #: 6267
Senior Member

Bristol

I have just bought a selection of second hand Mk1 parts, most are interior bits but it also included a petrol tank as the 5.5 gallon one in the pictures belongs to my Cooper so I needed another to modify for feed and return etc. Anyway, the parts arrived today and this is what I got;
IMG_0421 by Matt4475, on Flickr
It is an early optional Cooper S RH tank with the gas welded seam (not the Serck type either) It must be about the most valuable of all, with the exception of the Special Tuning endurance racing tanks which almost fill the boot.
Bit of a pointless post I know but I couldn't not tell anyone!

Edited by Flame Red on 12th Jul, 2017.


Joe C

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12307 Posts
Member #: 565
Carlos Fandango

Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex

How about rather than moding the RH tank lust mod the left one with a new dedicated feed and return, then just plum the existing outlets from both tanks together.

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/



Flame Red

288 Posts
Member #: 6267
Senior Member

Bristol

On 12th Aug, 2011 Joe C said:
How about rather than moding the RH tank lust mod the left one with a new dedicated feed and return, then just plum the existing outlets from both tanks together.


That is exactly what I'm going to do, there is no way I'm going near that tank with a welder! I needed a LH tank but I seem to have bought a genuine RH one for the same price!


Joe C

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12307 Posts
Member #: 565
Carlos Fandango

Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex

Ah, yes sorry I only skim read that.

thats a bargin!! last time I looked thoise tanks were going for around 150 quid, not sure what they are worth now, but its got still be in that region.

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/



Flame Red

288 Posts
Member #: 6267
Senior Member

Bristol

I'm still sorting out the last few bits on this shell, I've got all but one part of the lower dash rail welded up so that'll be finished this week. I've removed all the pipe clips on one side of the floor as I'll be using the MPI type and replaced one of the brake line ones. I've also fitted all the slinging shoes, mainly as I thought they might be useful to rest it one when I need to move the shell around. I have fitted drip shredders to the drip rails, I am quite keen to modify the drip rail so it looks like the early type as well, I'm just very concerned about messing it up.

I got a heater last week so I've spent some time restoring that. It started off like this
IMG_0422 by Matt4475, on Flickr
I took it apart and shot blasted it
IMG_0428 by Matt4475, on Flickr
It's almost complete again now, I'm just waiting for some demister vent shrouds to turn up so I can spray them and the front panel at the same time.
IMG_0444 by Matt4475, on Flickr

I got some spot lamp brackets today as well, it was quite exciting as I've spent almost a year trying to get them. I had originally ordered them through John Kelly, (he sold a lot of reproduction works stuff for those who don't know), but sadly he died last Christmas as I'm sure a lot of people on the Mk1 forum and MCR are aware. Anyway, by chance I found out who made his parts and I've finally got a set.
IMG_0446 by Matt4475, on Flickr

Edited by Flame Red on 12th Jul, 2017.


Flame Red

288 Posts
Member #: 6267
Senior Member

Bristol

I've finished the heater, quite pleased with the result


Flame Red

288 Posts
Member #: 6267
Senior Member

Bristol

I finally gave in to my temptation and modified the roof gutter, I think it has gone ok but it was fiddly to do.
IMG_0460 by Matt4475, on Flickr
IMG_0461 by Matt4475, on Flickr
I have also refurbished the speedo I'll be using and set the mileage to the same as my previous one. It is a genuine 64-66 Cooper S one which cost half as much as I paid for this entire car, I was so nervous about taking it apart that I bought a Morris Minor one off eBay for £10 so I could practice first!
IMG_0464 by Matt4475, on Flickr
My next step is to make a frame so the car can be moved around.

Edited by Flame Red on 12th Jul, 2017.

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