Mk1 Turbo Racer, never ending project.
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i can see a small modification to the subby happening and may get a little lower.

What the mind can conceive the mini can achieve
MITP 2012 17.01 seconds 1/4 mile against "The Don"
MITP 2013 16.83 seconds 1/4 mile

The subframe mate

I have started posting on Instagram also my name on there is turbomk1golf

Nothing is impossible it just costs more and takes longer.

as per your own quote "Nothing is impossible it just costs more and takes longer".
you could always raise the mini :(

What the mind can conceive the mini can achieve
MITP 2012 17.01 seconds 1/4 mile against "The Don"
MITP 2013 16.83 seconds 1/4 mile

Are you missing the split pins from the castle nuts on the cv joints?

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!

yes mate I am. there on the todo list

I have started posting on Instagram also my name on there is turbomk1golf

Nothing is impossible it just costs more and takes longer.

What you think i should do with that stud?

I have started posting on Instagram also my name on there is turbomk1golf

Nothing is impossible it just costs more and takes longer.

Stop it leaking? :)

I guess it depends how it's getting there? I have the same issue with a thermostat stud, I use some rtv when I put it in.

Not sure how that will help,with the clamping load of the extra studs? Has it cut into the water jacket? I've never run an 11 stud head as I've only had small bore engines.

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!

How about some thread sealing compound on the head end of the stud? I'm sure loctite do a product that would be perfect for that, its not like the cooling system is under hundreds of Bar of pressure or anything.
Possibly even something like 242 would be alright, just don't go using the red stuff or you will never get the stud out again haha

Edited by jakejakejake1 on 24th Apr, 2013.

In fact I think arp mention a sealing compound in the instructions ?

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!

that red loctite shit you got?

Yes never thought of that lol. So what about the subframe has any one came across this before??

I have started posting on Instagram also my name on there is turbomk1golf

Nothing is impossible it just costs more and takes longer.

I've seen that area of the subby modified on other cars.

In the 13's at last!.. Just

I was thinking as a quick fix I could cut a hole with the hole saw, where it sticks out. and maybe weld a flat plate in there when i have time. as I am hoping to get all setup.

I have started posting on Instagram also my name on there is turbomk1golf

Nothing is impossible it just costs more and takes longer.

Refit the stud with loctite 542 which is for sealing metal pipes and fittings

I'm guessing Carl has seen it before as his arms are for coil overs? Iirc there were some threads about getting the top arm straight?

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!

my first thought were lop that bit off and weld a flat plate across it; however that's me and i do love an angle grinding session :)

I've done it like this...



Cut a cross in it from each corner, hit it back, trimmed the excess and welded it back up. Gained a few extra CM's.

Also taken a hole saw to it.

Thanks jonny, Have you got the same set up then? Ti top arms?

simon.

I have started posting on Instagram also my name on there is turbomk1golf

Nothing is impossible it just costs more and takes longer.

I have the standard top arms with coilover brackets. They used to hit the subframe on my old car when running it low.

I may be talking out my arse but surly the shock is not at an efficient angle when running that low? every time you hit a bump the bottom shock mount will move inwards surely

My protecs sat alot closer to the body than that, seems like they are quite far away, I would re drill the top bracket to bring the unit closer to the body, I could run my bottom arms on the subframe bump stop mounting area without fouling with std arms. To stop any further problems I woukd mod the subby and do some wiggy style coilover brackets.

Drives
-Ford S-max Mk2 Ecoboost
-Rover 100 VVC #2 - track project

Searching is all you need on TurboMinis

I have not really look at them yet, but I am going to have a good play with them tomorrow to see what I come up with.

Wolfie this is what I was thinking mate as they move inwards.

Paul yes I think i will be looking at the holes next.

Simon.

I have started posting on Instagram also my name on there is turbomk1golf

Nothing is impossible it just costs more and takes longer.

that was my thought too

Today I had a good day on the car, I got the top arms sorted i just got the drive shafts level and cut holes in the subframe. Then I went for a drive up the street to the house and all was fine. I forgot how good the boost was



Always looks good after wash


I have got my ToDo list down to--

1. fix a weeping brake fitting
2. find out why the boost solenoid is not working ( think it's the earth)
3. fit the screen wash hose and new jets.
4. fit 2nd seat.

Edited by madmk1 on 27th Apr, 2013.

I have started posting on Instagram also my name on there is turbomk1golf

Nothing is impossible it just costs more and takes longer.

I like the ideas of those hubs and the metro style ball joints must be loads less hassle.

Stick paint the fresh cut hole on your list :)

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!