K1100 16V Turbo build...now transmission build.
Turbo Mini Forums

loving the oil drain, may i ask where its from or was this a home scuptured item.

great build look forward to more

What the mind can conceive the mini can achieve
MITP 2012 17.01 seconds 1/4 mile against "The Don"
MITP 2013 16.83 seconds 1/4 mile

Looks like an OEM oil drain tube, used on lots of rovers etc

Streetscreamer - my ecu has shift cut on it, so I'll just have it wired to the up shift microswitch mounted on the gear shifter. I'll have a second microswitch mounted on the shifter and may look into a throttle blipped in the future for down shifts if everything else works fine.

Lee - the oil drain is a standard Saab item. I just searched Saab turbo oil return on eBay and that came up.

Edited by matty on 1st Oct, 2013.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

see me.. as total noob regarding turbo goodies... didnt see a std saab item in it.

reading your shifter matters: switch can trigger a system but what willhappen: open or closed loop? Open loop will stay just a best guess instead of true tailor made interuption.... not?

At first I'll just try it out and see how consistent changes are, if they appear to be easy to miss I'll mess around with pressures Etc..And consider making up a simple timer circuit. My old job used to involve pneumatics a lot, especially the timings of solenoids, so to be honest im fairly confident setting it up without a timer shouln't be a problem, and will make getting neutral easier too!

Besides the way bike boxes are designed, they make the changes on the box very positive and difficult to miss a gear.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

Well it's been a while since an update! I've been busy building my engine up, grinding rods to size, and thrusts which is all ready for balancing now.

I now have a reverse gear. :)

I've ground the second gear off the shuttle gear from another bike box, and used the selector shaft from it too, this will be linked to a pneumatic cylinder to bring it in and out. It'll basically be a crash reverse mesh the two shafts together. I just need to grind the original internal splines out and bush it to suit the shaft it's running on, which will be a mini layshaft. I've just started work on the new engine mount for that side of the box, as that will incorporate the air cylinder, and shaft supports for the running shaft and selector shaft.

Mocked up with a shaft for now to check positioning.



I've also finished the new oil pickup pipe too. Light at the end of the massive tunnel!

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

Looking like some good progress matt! I like the look of the pick up pipe

My build thread: http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=454802

Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/85313398@N02/

I dont know if it is the camera but there looks like an area of stress left of the centre web a sort of sideways T shape, the rest of thd casing looks to be worked hope its not a crack

Drives
-Ford S-max Mk2 Ecoboost
-Rover 100 VVC #2 - track project

Searching is all you need on TurboMinis

Cheers dan, those pipes worked a treat!

Paul - It is a stress area, but only in the form of the original casting mark..you had me worried then! Lol

i started cleaning them aill up, will finish off when all of the gears and bearungs are removed.

Edited by matty on 26th Oct, 2013.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

Better to be safe than sorry! I saw it just randomly and the rest of the case looks pritty well done, thought I better say incase you missed it .

Sorry for worrying you

Drives
-Ford S-max Mk2 Ecoboost
-Rover 100 VVC #2 - track project

Searching is all you need on TurboMinis

How many casings have we ever known to break? Not many, I only know of Fastcarls. Really its nothing to worry about

I seriously doubt it!

I have a casing where the diff has tried to climb out of the back, has a nice big split round the diff housing.

On 26th Oct, 2013 Paul R said:
Better to be safe than sorry! I saw it just randomly and the rest of the case looks pritty well done, thought I better say incase you missed it .

Sorry for worrying you

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

Good job Matty.
With the oil pick-up pipe I just see the solution in real as I has still in my mind.
Will it be supported with a fixing plate somewhere?

I see your reverse solution. Aparently jumped off the old idea with mini parts. It looks clever and seems to be a good solution for your type of control. Top.
It might inspire me too for my final solution, as I still am not content with a constant mesh on the primary shaft with the idler reverse gear. Making that idler reverse gear the sliding part will help.

Good luck!

Cheers Bart, having it in constant mesh was a concern of mine too which and this seemed to be the best solution. All three gears will be giving a lead to help them mesh easier.

If you look closely, the oil pick up pipe is supported by the selector shaft by a sleeve on the pipe.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

Cute solution for the oil pick up support Matty!

I have studied the revised reverse gear for my situation. Having the extra gear below can't be my solution due to the old school gearchange control I chose for. So it will be above. The simplest solution will be by using the original 1st gears of the mini and 1 of the reverse idler gears.

cheers, Bart

So does this mean you have six reverse gears as well?

oops, pictures finally loaded - never mind LOL

Edited by TurboDave16V on 30th Oct, 2013.

I've been cracking on with this, and getting all of the last few jobs done.

I've now cut the reverse gear shaft to length, and made a retaining clamp to stop it turning. I've ground the splines out of the reverse gear, made a bronze bush and bored it out to suit the mini shaft.









The new engine mount is all finished. I will update a picture of that when its a complete assembly with the reverse support shaft and air cylinder fitted. :)

Edited by matty on 11th Nov, 2013.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

great looking work as always matty

Done now needs redoing lol

Don't foroget your making one of these for me too

Team www.sheepspeed.com Racing

Fellow countrymen first.......
Then foreigners.

lol, I'll move

Team www.sheepspeed.com Racing

Sexy pics again, yum yum!

Hey Matt you have to explain me a little about the trick to do the cylindric grinding. I face the same issue. I thought about installing a dremel-ish tool on the longitudinal guide of the bench lathe. Will it blend.. eh work? Any specific grinding stone type you used?

I see you welded the plate with reverse support to the metal bearing support. Did that go well with regular welding techniques, as the material looks casted.

regards, Bart

Thanks for the comments.

Don't worry jim, I'm making two of everything...I couldn't possibly turn down £200 for one!

Bart - I had acces to a cylindrical grinder which has an internal stone on it. I'm unsure on what grade it was, but it was a white stone. Your way might work, but it might be worth getting it ground properly, as you need to get it round and not tapered to make it easier to get a good interference fit with the bush. Are you using a bike gear for reverse now?

As for the plate, it welded fine with mild steel filler rod. I just ground chamfers on both parts to the centre line of the plate, so the weld goes completely through the plate, and then surface ground it flat afterwards. It didn't appear to be cast, or even hardened, just a good quality coated steel. I clamped it to some parallels to tack it, but it was a bit of a pain to keep it flat when welding. I ended up veeing the weld on on side then rewelding to bring the plate flat.

I've managed to rough out the support plate today, but as usual the problem of space inside the box is making things more awkward than I'd hoped. I'm now maching the support plate and cylinder out of billet and bolting/doweling it to the new engine mount.

Edited by matty on 12th Nov, 2013.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi