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Graham T

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Hungerford, Berks

Thanks Yo-Han


Just a little update – It feels like I’ve not really made much progress of late, but I suppose getting these trim parts done now means I do not have to rush them later when I near the point that the car is ready for the road.
Things like trim seem to get rushed at the end when the car is ready to drive barring cosmetics.


Under Riders:

Aluminium brackets bonded to the Carbon fibre and a final coat of Epoxy primer applied and flatted down.





I am still waiting on the black epoxy “wheel lacquer” to arrive that I ordered on the 4th Jan. So far it has spent 8 days lounging in Charles De Gaulle airport and then a further 9 days so far rolling around the floor at DPD’s Oldbury deport. I assume tomorrow it will have served its 10 days quarantine, and I should get it early next week - I hope.
My own fault for ordering paint from a company based in France I suppose, but it was the only paint I could find that suited what I wanted.


Front Bumper:

not much progress at all really.

I did get the 2 front brackets cut, bent and tig’d up…












… but I’ve not got much further than that. First coat of primer has been applied and flatted back, but I do have a couple of minor bubbles in the resin that I still need to fill, then get a second coat of epoxy primer applied.

I will make the side brackets once I have the front brackets bonded in place, as I am not yet sure how to make those for the side.


The 2 quarter panel trims are now completed.















The companion box liners are now complete.






For the Quarter panels, the originals weight 880g each, the new ones are 680g. Not as light as I had hoped, but still a good saving.

The companion box liners… further up the page I predicted a very small increase in weight once the leatherette was put on – How very wrong I was. I thought I read that the leatherette that I bought was 65g per m^2, but I must have been dreaming that.
Final weight for the liners is 215g, still a weight saving, but nothing like I expected.

I also now think I have the rear parcel shelf complete.
I say think because I made this:





But just having looked at replacement parts from mini suppliers, they are straight along the edge that butts up to the lip on the rear bulkhead.
I do not have a pattern for this part and I cannot remember how the rear seat fits, so I have to go get that out of the loft and see if I have made yet myself yet more work…

Edited by Graham T on 23rd Jan, 2021.

’77 Clubman build thread
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=618189

Siamese 5 port EFI testing
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=611675


Graham T

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608 Posts
Member #: 1106
Post Whore

Hungerford, Berks

And the final little thing I have been playing with is the headlight bowls.

The inlet pipe to the remote turbo on the Coupe is incredibly close to the driver side headlight bowl, it is not touching, just damned close around about here:



I am worried that when I transfer the engine across to this car, if I get the engine mount holes subframe slightly further forward than I have them in the coupe, or even if there are dimensional differences between the fibreglass frontend on the coupe and the steel frontend on this car (which there are bound to be), then I will have issues with the turbo inlet pipe, which would be almost impossible to sort out – I have the elbow cut as short as I possibly can now, so I’m not sure I can shorten it any more.
So, I am going to try to put a little curve in the headlight bowl to give some clearance.

So far I have laid up fibreglass on a plastic headlight bowl, which amazingly released without issues.



Chain drilled the shape that I wanted to adjust.

Used the piece I cut out to fill the hole, but flipped it so that it curves inwards in this area. – I needed to get the cut out piece nice and hot in boiling water to bend the corners at the front to bring them back in line with the normal curve of the bowl.
“Glued” the piece in place with some filler, then laid up a few layers of Fibreglass over the outside to strengthen it.
And finally filled and smoothed inside to blend the new piece into the main body of the bowl, before applying a thickened coat of polyester resin to get a hardened surface.





I was pretty sure that trying to get a carbon fibre part of this mold was never going to work, but I tried it anyway.
The result is too embarrassing to show – absolute failure, the carbon fibre bridged as expected on the tight radii, so that got binned.
I am now on plan B.
which is:

Cast some plaster in my mold to make a plug.




layup the carbon fibre on the plug. Put the whole thing in a vacuum storage bag, put under radiator to cure.


No idea if that is going to work either, but there’s nothing like a bit of experimenting.

If I can get a reasonable part out of it, I will bond an aluminium ring to the front face for securing to the car body and mounting the adjuster screws.

’77 Clubman build thread
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=618189

Siamese 5 port EFI testing
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=611675


Rod S

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Formally Retired

Rural Suffolk

I know you love to do things the hard way, but for the headlamp bowl, why not just put a 75mm or 100mm hole saw through the area where the clearance issue is and reverse the cut-out bit so it's concave and weld/epoxy/fiberglass it back in, just in-side out ?

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Graham T

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608 Posts
Member #: 1106
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Hungerford, Berks




On 24th Jan, 2021 Rod S said:


I know you love to do things the hard way,




*surprised*


On 24th Jan, 2021 Rod S said:


but for the headlamp bowl, why not just put a 75mm or 100mm hole saw through the area where the clearance issue is and reverse the cut-out bit so it's concave and weld/epoxy/fiberglass it back in, just in-side out ?


I had not yet thought about Plan C yet, but I shall adopt this one. *smiley*

’77 Clubman build thread
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=618189

Siamese 5 port EFI testing
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=611675


Graham T

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608 Posts
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Hungerford, Berks

I was going to wait another day before trying to release this, but not known for my patience and having got bored this evening, I tried to pry it out with a putty knife between the plaster and fibreglass.
No joy…
I did not want to do my usual bull in a china shop and break it.

So I put it in a washing up bowl in the sink and ran hot water on it out of the tap.
Once the bowl was full, I waited about 20 seconds, caught hold of the top of the fibreglass to lift the whole thing out and to my amazement the plaster slid out of the fibreglass.



So, part one is a success.

’77 Clubman build thread
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=618189

Siamese 5 port EFI testing
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=611675


Yo-Han

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North of the Netherlands

In awe of your energies and skills
Awesome!

....do the other things, not because they are easy, but because they are hard... *wink*

Dazed and Confused....


shane

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Lowestoft, Suffolk.

The path of least resistance offers least reward.

Shane


robert

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uranus

nicely done graham , i often find hot water helps it slip out .

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM


e5tus

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Dorset

I like your approach, these little details are great. I'm surprised the trim panels didn't offer as much savings, but a nice use of your skills


Graham T

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608 Posts
Member #: 1106
Post Whore

Hungerford, Berks




On 25th Jan, 2021 robert said:
nicely done graham , i often find hot water helps it slip out .


No soap??

’77 Clubman build thread
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=618189

Siamese 5 port EFI testing
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=611675


Graham T

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608 Posts
Member #: 1106
Post Whore

Hungerford, Berks




On 25th Jan, 2021 e5tus said:
I like your approach, these little details are great. I'm surprised the trim panels didn't offer as much savings, but a nice use of your skills


If I had not used foam backing, scrim foam and then Leatherette, I'm sure it would have been much lighter.

’77 Clubman build thread
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=618189

Siamese 5 port EFI testing
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=611675


Graham T

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608 Posts
Member #: 1106
Post Whore

Hungerford, Berks

Well, my beautifully sculpted Rear parcel shelf was the wrong shape.


On 23rd Jan, 2021 Graham T said:

I also now think I have the rear parcel shelf complete.
I say think because I made this:





But just having looked at replacement parts from mini suppliers, they are straight along the edge that butts up to the lip on the rear bulkhead.
I do not have a pattern for this part and I cannot remember how the rear seat fits, so I have to go get that out of the loft and see if I have made yet myself yet more work…



The rear seat was about 4mm too high, so I had to peel the leatherette back and cut the parcel shelf down with the jigsaw.
The fix never took long at all, but it is still annoying because as said, I did not have a pattern to go to and so I spent 2 nights carefully shaping the front of the parcel shelf to fit the contour of the rear bulkhead.




Headlight bowl:

Plan C not required.

So I layed-up 3 layers of 200gms cloth on the plaster plug, using fast hardener for the epoxy resin this time, just to see if that might help get around the tight radii bridging issues.
Cut shaped pieces of peel ply to cover the whole thing without overlapping.
Trimmed up the excess cloth and peel ply and spent a fair while trying to consolidate it all and get it into the corners
Stuffed it in a vacuum storage bag, sucked all the air out and left it to cure for a couple of days.





It did not release as easily as I had hoped, but that could be something to do with the layer of polyester resin that I coated the plaster with a couple of days before I did the Carbon fibre lay-up.




You can see above some nasty white “stuff” on the surface of the part and the fact that the carbon fibre does not have much of a shine.

Regardless, that came off with a piece of 220 Grit after I had left the part for another day after release.

Most important is the fact that the carbon fibre did actually stay in the tight corners.

Next, just to make it all look a little nicer, I brushed over the inside with a very light coat of slightly thickened epoxy resin.





Then I bonded a 2mm think ring to the back of the flange to give it all some strength.
Big thanks to Shane for helping me out with the aluminium ring. I have no face plate for my lathe and thought it better to get the ring made by someone who had the appropriate kit…


Finally a coat of thickened Epoxy resin on the outside.




That so far, is a success.

Obviously you can see there are no holes drilled in the flange yet, but I have decided to leave that part until I am ready to install. That way I can rotate the bowl in the frontend to best suit the position of the turbo inlet elbow, rather than guessing at it now.

I’ll buy an adjuster kit at some point to get the “nutserts”, screws and spring.

I was actually going to make 2 bowls, but I think as I do not need the passenger side modified, I will just use the plastic bowl that I used as the template for this piece.

’77 Clubman build thread
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=618189

Siamese 5 port EFI testing
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=611675


Graham T

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608 Posts
Member #: 1106
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Hungerford, Berks

Wow a whole month and no progress report…

Well, in order to try to get all the composite work finished, so that I can have a final sweep through and get rid of all the black dust and strands of fibre, which seem to be getting everywhere, I’ve been working on the dashboard.


Seeing as I still had the original fibreglass piece that I used to mold the Dashboard for the coupe, rather than create a new dash from scratch, I decided a little modification of the this one would suffice.

Because I am going to use the original 2 pod instrument panel and mounts, which I did not for the coupe, there was a little “re-jigging” needed.
Also, I do not intend to add a centre console in this car, so I had to change the lower section to work into the lower dash rail and fit around the heater.

Hence a bit of “cutting and shutting” ensured, followed by a lot of filler and sanding,













and finally a fresh coat of flow coat.








After Laying up 1 x 200g and 2 x 380g layers of carbon fibre onto this, the end result did not turn out too bad.






Next was onto cutting holes to get access to stuff behind the dash and to fit the 10” screen.







For the top section of the dashboard, I just layed up carbonfibre on a double glazing unit to get a nice flat sheet, which I trimmed down to shape firstly using the original fibrelgass “pattern” from the coupe build, then trimmed it up to suit this car.

After a jolly ole time with making and fitting brackets and supports…


















…I’m fairly pleased with the outcome:


















Now to try to squeeze everything in behind it.


First step of this was to get the 10” screen mounted properly.
I could not get the same make and model screen as I use in the Coupe, which I would have preferred, because it comes with its own clip in surround, which makes finishing the dash up to the screen much easier, as you already have a nice tidy lip which sits over the top of any material used as a cover.




It also makes mounting the screen in a way that allows it to be easily removed an awful lot easier.
In the end I had to just get the next best thing and somehow create a mount using the VESA mounting holes on the back of the screen.

Eventually I came up with this:

The 2 pins push into the rubber grommets, locating the driver side of the screen in the correct place.





Then a single pin on the passenger side guides the screen into the correct location.
This then makes it easier to get in from the passenger side access hole to screw in 2 screws which hold the screen firmly in place.




I have used the 2 mounting brackets on either side and 1 piece of aluminium angle top and bottom to create a surround which is 3mm larger then the screen. This should allow me to pull the leatherette inside the hole for the screen, giving a clean finish on face – I hope!

’77 Clubman build thread
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=618189

Siamese 5 port EFI testing
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=611675


Graham T

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Hungerford, Berks

This is the mounting panel for the ECU fuses and Relays.




I am hoping I have room also to mount a fuse holder for the other main car fuses, but I think I will not have room for the relays.
When I started making this, I forgot that the demist vents fit exactly where I wanted to mount the fuses, so I had to reduce the overall area I had to mount stuff on. ☹

The fuse holder and relay holder are from the original clubman EFI conversion, and I’m not sure I will use the fuse holder because it has spade connections for incoming/outgoing wiring and I would rather solder the wires directly.

You can also see from the above photo that I have made new dash lower fasica boards to replace the soggy ruined parts that I took out.





This final step to date was scratching my head trying to figure out how to mount the new MS2 case, which will also house a great majority of the other axillary boards, rather than having multiple separate cases, as I currently have in the coupe.

The problem here is that the ECU box has to be mounted far enough forward that I can get the screen in.
However, with the bulge in the bulkhead plate, it makes things very tight.

If you look down the ashtray hole in the top rail, I think you should be able to see that the ECU box is touching the bulkhead plate.







Once the screen is in place, there is stacks of room.





I could move the ECU box toward the driver side, which would allow more room due to the angle of the screen, but that then starts getting close to the instrument panel mount and would mean that the cables coming for the DSUB connectors at the driver’s side end of the ECU box would have very tight bends, which I am not keen on.

So far I have decided that I need to do something with the bulkhead plate, but I am not sure what.
I do not need clearance in the engine bay, so I could either reduce or completely eliminate the bulge.
My preference is to replace the plate with a new flat aluminium plate, but I am not sure on how much strength the plate actually gives to the bulkhead? Any thoughts?


Edited by Graham T on 28th Feb, 2021.

’77 Clubman build thread
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=618189

Siamese 5 port EFI testing
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=611675


e5tus

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Dorset

Not sure how much strength the bulkhead plate provides, I got rid of mine and boxed it out (but i needed the space engine side). But a flat plate with some bead rolling for reinforcement should be ok.

Great progress by the way, coming together nicely.


Graham T

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Hungerford, Berks



On 1st Mar, 2021 e5tus said:
Not sure how much strength the bulkhead plate provides, I got rid of mine and boxed it out (but i needed the space engine side). But a flat plate with some bead rolling for reinforcement should be ok.

Great progress by the way, coming together nicely.


Thanks for the reply.
I was thinking that the bulkhead plate is made of thin material, albeit shaped which adds rigidity, but ultimately it is only secured with 4 off set screws which are of small diameter (I suppose the sealant also adds a little strength), but as the edge of the bulkhead plate is rolled outwards, not a lot of the plate actually makes contact with the bulkhead anyway, hence I cannot see it is really adding much strength.
So I think an Aluminium plate would be good also...


Progress is really not as fast as I would like, but I will soon get a 10 day stint on it, so I hope I can get that roof and gutters sorted!

Edited by Graham T on 2nd Mar, 2021.

’77 Clubman build thread
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=618189

Siamese 5 port EFI testing
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=611675


robert

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uranus

lovely crisp holes on that dash graham ,well done.

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM


Graham T

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Hungerford, Berks

The dash is now pretty much completed. All switches in, brackets made and bonded on.
Apart from a little clean up here and there, the next step is going to be covering it, but that can wait for now…










With that pretty much complete, I’ve now mustered a bit of enthusiasm to get the roof back on.


Front gutter replacement piece welded in:




and I have tested a tool to get the gutter curled over when the time comes.







This will only get the curl part of the way over, then I have to make something up to form the rest of the roll.






The corners were somewhat challenging, but have not turned out too bad.








New rear cantrail installed and everything that I will not be able to get at once the roof skin is welded in has been cleaned up and painted.









After the roof was welded on I made up a small “forming tool” with a piece of 7mm rod and some flat steel which fits in the channel around the roof.






This I used to finish the form of the gutter, pulling the gutter over firstly with pliers/ vice grips then finishing with a hammer.
The “forming” tool was also then used as a rough height guide to trim off the excess material.







A bit of Epoxy primer to cover up the mess.






I have to admit, I have had a weeks holiday this week and my plan was that by the end of the Easter bank holiday weekend I would have the roof on. The primer actually went on the roof on Tuesday evening, So I’m now way ahead of my schedule.



Next steps were:

Get the rest of the bare metal inside the car epoxy primed
Finish the A posts (which finally saw the very last of the nasty “purple velvet” paint removed from the car).
Clean up and rub down the epoxy primer
Seam seal all internal seams.





I also had a clean up of the upper bulk head, a little filler and seam sealer, followed by some primer.






Inside the car, a coat of high build primer.







I had planned today to put a colour coat on the inside of the car, but the filters in my mask are pretty blocked up and I do not have a second compressor at the moment for the air fed mask, so I’ve put that step on hold. Hopefully the filters will be here on Saturday.

Today was spent flatting back the primer inside the car and also getting the stone chip sprayed on the front wheel wells.
As normal, I forget how fast that stuff comes out of the gun when it’s been thinned, so it went on a bit "heavier" in places than was intended, hence the inevitable runs in a place or two, but nothing that I cannot sort out with a bit of course wet or dry before the colour coat goes on.




I’ve also started filling the joins where the new panels were welded to the old.





Oh, and amongst all that, I’ve been playing with a new turbo.





Edited by Graham T on 1st Apr, 2021.

’77 Clubman build thread
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=618189

Siamese 5 port EFI testing
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=611675


Ralf

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Lindlar

Nice primer work.
Did you do that yourself in the garage?
If so, did you use spray cans or work with the spray gun?


Graham T

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608 Posts
Member #: 1106
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Hungerford, Berks




On 2nd Apr, 2021 Ralf said:
Nice primer work.
Did you do that yourself in the garage?


Yes





If so, did you use spray cans or work with the spray gun?


With a spray gun.

’77 Clubman build thread
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=618189

Siamese 5 port EFI testing
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=611675


Ralf

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Lindlar

great, thanks.


robert

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uranus

ooooohhhh vntastic dyn oh oh ohhohoh fun to come !

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM


Yo-Han

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North of the Netherlands

Very tidy work Graham!

Dazed and Confused....


Graham T

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608 Posts
Member #: 1106
Post Whore

Hungerford, Berks

On 3rd Apr, 2021 robert said:
ooooohhhh vntastic dyn oh oh ohhohoh fun to come !


*smiley*

Yep, lots of fun to come I think. The plan is that this will not go on until later summer.
Hopefully I can get one more Dyno session in with the engine set up as is, then when I start the transfer of the engine to the clubman I have some plans for:
changing the turbine exit on the exhaust to create a bigger “expansion chamber”.
a small re-design of the new “X8” plenum to straighten up the flow in (ie no elbow after the TB)
reworking of the IC pipework
Reworking of the compressor inlet side to try to sort out the MAF sensor.

So while I am at all of that, why not give a VNT a go…
I already have a test mock up of an electronic controller built up to replace the existing actuator with a servo type.
The basic code is operational but it was all done without a physical VNT turbo at hand. When I finally got one I was amazed at the limited movement of the control mechanism on the turbo, hence I have a little rework of the code to do to get the resolution I would like.

I am surprised at the physical size of the VNT turbo next to the GT17. I did not go for as big a turbo as originally planned/ thought: my goal at this point still remains maximum power for least boost/ revs, so I wanted to see if I can get better spool and higher boost lower down, rather than worrying about overall high end capability.
I was originally thinking GT2259V, or even bigger frame, but this is a GT2056V, so the small diameter compressor wheel (compared to the others mentioned) should aid faster spool and it should still have enough capacity for way over my power goals. As things stand at the moment I would still be limited by the injector size, which might give me around 230 – 240 BHP. That might change if I can make the change to the 1000cc/min low-z injectors.

Anyhow, something for the future.






On 4th Apr, 2021 Yo-Han said:
Very tidy work Graham!



Thanks Yo-Han.

’77 Clubman build thread
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=618189

Siamese 5 port EFI testing
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=611675


robert

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uranus

maybe a ratio divider arm for the vnt graham,so ,say 3mm movement of the servo equals 1mm of the vnt arm ? , or just extent the vnt arm ?

Edited by robert on 4th Apr, 2021.

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

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