K1100 turbo track car build
Turbo Mini Forums

What you need to do is check you have clearance for the pressure plate to release ok. If you do you can take some off the flywheel posts. If you dont you should take some off the spacers. I do think the spings need to sit 'flatter'

The extra distance is what I found is needed to make the spring operate correctly about the pivot point in the release phase, The clamping phase is affected, but you need room between them to be able to function properly as it is in clamp mode, and transitions to release with travel on the release bearing. I tried the original length + new spring thickness outright, but it was clearly not right as I had to really apply a lot more torque to pull the bolts in the last 1/2mm, and the shallow U-section plate was deforming excessively.


That said - I did have to machine my posts on the backplate (which I had forgotten until now)!

Removing the dowels from the minispares steel backplate (to machine the surface) was an absolute swine - in the end I welded a nut on, wrenched it out, and bought new dowels. IIRC, the reason I had to machine was because for some reason, the post heights were different compared to the factory flywheel. Do you have a factory cast one to compare it to?

Edited by TurboDave16V on 16th May, 2019.

Update!

I've sorted the clutch. Had it all apart again and checked the length of the spacers against my notes and it turns out the spacers were just over 2.2mm too long. So that made for an easy fix but a cock up all the same. Anyway, got it all back together and put it in the press and the plate released at 6mm travel. Spring now sits much flatter



There was a few other bits to do on the engine before it could be fitted such as the speedo hall sensor bracket and to araldite the magnet on to the pot joint as well as making a blank for the speedo hole.



Time to drop the engine in after making a rack to pick it up square and level





Plumbed the clutch slave up and bled it. I'd modded this during the dry build as the position I have the engine in the auto subframe meant the rear facing banjo was very close to the subframe so I faced the end off flat and drilled for a JIC fitting.



On to the IACV. I had previously planned to run the four wire magnetti marelli unit in the first picture as I understood that a firmware upgrade would enable this with the Emerald K3 ECU I'm running but I now learn only the K6 unit has this capability apparently.

The mini MPI unit (MDQ100040) is a 5 wire K3 compatible unit and I'm hoping to run it in the same housing so I don't have to change the plenum. The holes in the housing line up because there is two options and the other holes line up.

Regards plunger travel and housing geometry, will the two interchange OK?

It's been a while but the car is now finished *for now*.

A few changes happened such as the plenum being modified to suit and AT power TB and the MPI IACV body.





Had a bespoke rad made up by concept racing and got on with making some twin fan mounting brackets. Got the oil filler/breather manifold finished and took it for welding at Pristeane welding in Cov again, top job as always.



I then realised the AEM water gauge with 0-5V output that I'm using isn't compatible with the emerald ECU and it's voltage divider circuit as the voltage/temp gradient is reversed from the normal NTC sensors the ECU is designed for. So I had to knock up an inline temp sensor spigot to add to the dry deck U pipe. Milling attachment for the lathe earning it's keep once again.

First start up went without issue and after a fast idle with a little bit of tweaking of the base map provided by emerald 80 deg water temp was reached and it was moth balled until the rolling road while I did other jobs on the rest of the car.

YOUTUBE - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rfjlmcm_I6U

I set the ride height and took the car for suspension alignment at this stage to these numbers:

Camber - F -2.25deg, R -0.75 deg
Castor - 6 deg
Toe - F 14mins toe out, R parallel


It comes to a few days before the rollers and the car hadn't been started since first start up a few weeks before so a quick start up to check everything is well as I'd had a few things on and off around the engine to make some tweaks.

Turn the key... it starts but it's running rough as a dogs.. Check the plugs and they're covered in oil... uh oh.

Take the plenum off and there's lot of oil mist in there too on all cylinders but the intercooler and throttle body are clean so must be valve stem oil seals. Damn.

Pulled an all nighter at this point to get the head off and and strip the valves out. I couldn't get a good shot down the ports but you can see where the oil has been streaming down the valve stems below. No explanation how this has happened on all 16 as well as the seals were well lubricated and fitted with a suitable drift that had been turned up especially for the job.





Head back on and done - 6:30am, time for an hours sleep before work.



Next day it was off to John Sleath near Doncaster for mapping.

The day started with a bit of running in and low speed mapping to properly bed the rings in, followed by an oil change which was a bit awkward around the front ARB against a hot engine. It was then time for building some boost and getting the high speed mapping sorted.

The car up until this point had not skipped a beat and the fluid temperatures were right on the money. The actuator was fitted with a 10psi spring so with no duty cycle on the solenoid we mapped up to 7200rpm and made 160hp at the wheels (graph and torque to follow as I haven't got it to hand).

Confident that fueling and temps looked good we began upping the boost and made it to 14psi where he hit a misfire at around peak torque. Fueling looked good and with the misfire occurring at peak torque it had to be spark energy too weak and we didn't have any coil dwell headroom so we were forced to come back down on boost again where the misfire disappeared.

When I built the HT leads up I used resistor NGK screw on caps and the plugs are DR8EA's so theory is too much impedance in the coil to plug gap path. New leads with crimp on non-resistor caps will be the next step before more power next year after I've shaken down and run the car a bit.

It's six years since I've even driven a mini (this one) so 160 at the wheels will be sufficient for a little bit...

Final run of the day going through the gear double checking the transient fueling

YOUTUBE - https://youtu.be/H-B6trj6GA8

Edited by adcyork on 19th Nov, 2019.

And that brings us to this week where the car was cleaned, polished, chrome work, harnesses, etc fitted

Time for MOT later this week if they can fit me in but short of any issues I'm calling it done!

Nice, looking forward to the graph. the car and install looks well tidy :)

so spec wise is this essentially a std RS head & cams? what compression? ratio

Thanks Joe.

The head is an 1100 with LT cams on both exhaust and intake timed to 2mm lift on overlap. CR is 9:1

I sold the 1200RS head when I decided to go forced induction as it was immaculate and very low mileage so didn't want to start swapping cams and followers round when another 1100 head with LT cams was available at a good price.

Edited by adcyork on 19th Nov, 2019.

Very tidy indeed!
That engine bay... well done

Dazed and Confused....

Looks great in all respects. 160 at the wheels at 10 psi shows how much more potential is there when required!

Lovely job!!!

In the 13's at last!.. Just

Looks gorgeous!!!

Time for some track days.

👏👏 looks fantastic, hope you can make time to enjoy it

Jack Jones

looks mint! Some nice touches

Cheers guys, to say i'm eager to get it out on track is an understatement...

I remembered wrongly, peak power was 152.4 at the wheels as that required no duty cycle on the boost solenoid and gave some headroom before the misfire crept in so we left it at that until I sort the leads out.

Power/Torque/Man P


State of Tune

Looks very tidy build indeed!!

Amazing car, well done. I would be driving that all the time.
John

Amazing car, well done. I would be driving that all the time.
John

That's a great result fella. And johns rollers are very honest. Looks a mint car and I look forward to it joining us on plenty of track days in the new year👍

Roy B

Sweet

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!

Mega!

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.

Awesome build, makes mine look a mess.
Shane

Very nice turned out great, health to drive.

Hopefully you can get some videos of it driving up from inside or outside.

Instagram: bighill93