Massive, uneconomical, rusty project
Turbo Mini Forums

Yes, it is tiny but I have a T2 on a Mirage manifold so I don't need a big one :)
I am using the standard engine steady which seems to cause the float chamber of a HIF carb to hit the bulkhead, it was the same with a Minispares manifold and a Metro turbo one, I don't know if it's a common problem. I will see if I can find a picture of my previous effort with a lump hammer.

it is common as it happend to my mini, and someone before me had adjusted it with a hammer!lol
so i put a webber box in there instead, gives it loads of room!

your project is coming on nicely mate!

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985

I've got the lower dash rail welded in, I measured the gap between the top and bottom rails from my Mk2 Cooper, I'm sure it's smaller than it used to be but I've gone with it anyway, I really hope it's ok as changing it would be a huge amount of work. Since I've welded up the holes for the top padded dash rail I can't check it with my old dash.
IMG_0377 by Matt4475, on Flickr
As you can see I've also got the closing panels in.
IMG_0379 by Matt4475, on Flickr
Also, this arrived today
IMG_0381 by Matt4475, on Flickr
I've just got the front panel and 2 wings left to fit now followed by a few days of tidying up various bits.

Edited by Flame Red on 12th Jul, 2017.

Not far to go now then, its looking really good!

I bet you can't wait for the bodywork to be finished by now. lol

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

Edited by Flame Red on 12th Jul, 2017.

I can't remember now tbh?

That looks good though. As long as the backing plate was tight up against the edge it should be fine.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

I've welded up the check strap holes as I'm going to use the leather type strap, I'm not even sure I could use the original one as the door takes a different arc with the external hinges. I'm not sure which part of the door to attach the strap to though, I've got Elf/Hornet Mk3 door pockets but they're plastic so not any good. Something like the Mk1/2 door pockets for a Mk3 door would be useful but I don't expect there is anything.
IMG_0386 by Matt4475, on Flickr
I've also got the wings tacked on and the whole front end clamped together, I should have it all welded together soon.
IMG_0388 by Matt4475, on Flickr

Edited by Flame Red on 12th Jul, 2017.

Nice to see it looking like a car again.

Shell is 95% done. Doing a pre-build so I can sort all teh wiring out and any hole cutting etc. Then it's strip it down and do the finish work on it. Metro Van is my current focus though. Another year or so to go for me...

I'm going to have to dry build this as well, I'll probably have to fit the engine just so I can fit the radiator, I don't want to be cutting it once it's painted. I think once it's painted I'll set myself a deadline, it has to be done this year though.

Final build is the easy bit. I'm hoping mine will come together quickly once it's been coloured in.

Nice work. Makes you think how safe the car was before you started!!

The front end is all welded up now, I'm not completely happy with the bonnet gap on the passenger side as it gets wider at the top. I couldn't do anything to get it any better, I'm not sure what has caused it to be honest. I expect I'll bodge the bonnet to make it look right. The door gaps on the driver's side are borderline acceptable but the passenger side is atrocious, it is far too large at the bottom of the A panel. I wouldn't buy inner wings with the A panel already fitted again as it means I have no adjustment. I know that part of the cause was not having the inner wing to align the body side with but it fell apart when I removed the old body side. I also had the problem that the old passenger side inner sill was 9mm shorter than the driver's side. In hindsight these are all very good reasons why I shouldn't have attempted to repair this shell but as I've come this far I will, of course, persevere and get it sorted. This is the only picture I've taken in the last week, it doesn't really show any of the problems
IMG_0396 by Matt4475, on Flickr

In contrast to almost everyone else on here I've got some unnecessary metal to add
IMG_0397 by Matt4475, on Flickr
Should all be easy enough, I'm going to be using 3 point static seat belts before anyone points out the obvious. The fact that it will still have the mounts on the door bins will look a bit odd I admit.

Edited by Flame Red on 12th Jul, 2017.

Not a lot worth showing this week, I got a little bit of welding finished on the front end and spent yesterday getting soaked at Beaulieu. Still I managed to get a couple of bits I needed. Today I thought I'd get the rear ashtray mounts, grease nipple shrouds and spare wheel boss fitted. It turns out the ashtray mounts don't fit around the B post, obvious really but not something I'd thought of. It took me 2 hours to fit them as I had to cut and re-weld them. The modified one is on the right
IMG_0405 by Matt4475, on Flickr
Fitted
IMG_0406 by Matt4475, on Flickr
The grease nipple shrouds were easy
IMG_0407 by Matt4475, on Flickr
Spare wheel boss is also fitted.
I turned my attention to sorting out a few bits on the heelboard I had been meaning to weld for months and welded up all the 'drainage holes' in the floor (not the factory ones), I think there must have been about 7 of them. They didn't work as the car used to be like a paddling pool in the winter, it once had an inch of solid ice for 2 weeks.
I must sort out the passenger door fit next.

Edited by Flame Red on 12th Jul, 2017.

Have you strenghtened around the hinges and a-panels for fitting the mk2 doors or just bunged them on?

Its looking good though.

Ahh right, thanks.

I have been having ideas!

getting there mate

I've got a dilemma, I can't fit the boot board brackets and the MPI tank. Well, they do fit but that tank overlaps them making the left ones useless. I would really like a boot board so that I don't have to put stuff on the spare wheel and to add to its fake Cooper credentials! However, using a 5 1/2 Gallon tank would mean using an external pump and fitting a return to the tank. Also I can foresee it being a problem to feed from both tanks and only return to one. It is such a small detail but I really can't decide what to do.

Which brackets does it overlap? Then ones on the bulkhead or hinge rail?

What does it look like, when you move the bracket further into the centre to clear the tank?

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

Both of them are covered by the tank, the edge of the bulkhead one might be usable but it wouldn't look right, I can't move it up as it doesn't fit the curve of the bulkhead. The one along the hinge panel ends up sitting in the spare wheel well if I move it along enough to work. It's got to be a choice between the brackets or the MPI tank but I don't know if the hassle of fitting an external pump and fuel return would be worth it.

Hmmm or you could mod a 5.5 gallon tank to accept the fuel pump plate?

You could use rivnuts to secure it on, the only thing is you might have to mount the pump horizontally.

All depends on how much you want the boot board I suppose.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi