Project "Marginal gains..."
Turbo Mini Forums

Hi Simon,

I'm sure I do have them somewhere, probably best if I can dig out just the bare wheel weights as the rosepetal shown has an FIA race crossply on it which is is quite a bit lighter than normal road radial tyre, if that's any good to you?

I'll swap it for a piccy of your cornerweight scales readout with your car on it

Cheers

Edited by Aubrey_Boy on 29th Aug, 2017.

You have a lovely looking undercarriage!

Why thank you...

I'm on a bit of an OEM / originality kick at the moment, it'll be a 700kg 1000cc A series at this rate....

On 29th Aug, 2017 Aubrey_Boy said:
Hi Simon,

I'm sure I do have them somewhere, probably best if I can dig out just the bare wheel weights as the rosepetal shown has an FIA race crossply on it which is is quite a bit lighter than normal road radial tyre, if that's any good to you?

I'll swap it for a piccy of your cornerweight scales readout with your car on it

Cheers

I have started posting on Instagram also my name on there is turbomk1golf

Nothing is impossible it just costs more and takes longer.

On 29th Aug, 2017 Aubrey_Boy said:


I'll swap it for a piccy of your cornerweight scales readout with your car on it

Cheers

Attachments:

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I have started posting on Instagram also my name on there is turbomk1golf

Nothing is impossible it just costs more and takes longer.

So it has been on them....

I was very careful with my wording....


I'll swap it for a piccy of your cornerweight scales READOUT with your car on it

I see your car...

I see scales....

I don't see READOUT

C'mon tell us then!

Lol, well I will let everyone know when all the bits are bolted on, and it's fully built as at the min it's not finished. And there is still little bits and bobs to bolt on.

I have started posting on Instagram also my name on there is turbomk1golf

Nothing is impossible it just costs more and takes longer.

How bout a 'for now' weight n we can all guess the end figure

I have started posting on Instagram also my name on there is turbomk1golf

Nothing is impossible it just costs more and takes longer.

The other problem is the actual composition of magnesium alloys, density varies with composition, in theory a genuine mag equivalent of the ST wheel could be about 2.3 - 2.4 kg but unless a manufacturer was willing to confirm the specific mag alloy or an actual wheel weight I'd be sceptical about the mag content and actual weight saving. Other than the usual "my friends, dad's, brother weighed one once and it was x.xx kg" I haven't seen any weight data quoted for one.

Plus there is the bits to think of 😬

I have started posting on Instagram also my name on there is turbomk1golf

Nothing is impossible it just costs more and takes longer.

Nuts that should be.

I have started posting on Instagram also my name on there is turbomk1golf

Nothing is impossible it just costs more and takes longer.

Any more progress? I'm getting withdrawal symptoms!

I am having a rethink ride height wise, my original plans were quite conservative and in hindsight I'm not really sure why so I'm looking at running a bit lower....

Cheers

Edited by Aubrey_Boy on 17th Oct, 2017.

I got a couple of hours in the garage tonight...

The heelboard was going to be a patchwork quilt so it's just easier to start over so here is a new heelboard tidied up with all unnecessary brackets removed.

Just part way through at the minute....



Cheers

Edited by Aubrey_Boy on 19th Oct, 2017.

I've also decided that whilst I'm doing the heelboard I am going to go with direct to heelboard mounting of the trailing arms, it saves another couple of kilos and tidies things up at the same time.

I'll add some images when I get to a solution I'm happy with.

Cheers

Edited by Aubrey_Boy on 17th Oct, 2017.

Look forward to see how u mount them to healboard

gussets along the floor ?

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

Hey Robert

The good thing is that as I've mentioned before it's quite easy to rig up a test to measure camber and toe stiffness so you can see what the relative stiffnesses are.

I really liked the ally box section as that is a nice stiff continuous box section not with top centre cut open like my original Minispares one, the main problem is that it partially obscures the exhaust tunnel and cutting the box section for clearance would mean there would be little strength left to the box section so it would end up little more than a 2kg spacer.

So the main reason for looking at doing it is improved ground and exhaust clearance as the tunnel isn't obscured and hopefully put somewhat less than 2kg back in as heelboard stiffening so save some weight as well.

If I run a rear roll hoop then it's really easy to get all the stiffness and more back and only add 0.5kg or so as I'd just run a couple of thin wall tubes from the main hoop to the trailing arm mounting points, we'll see...

Cheers

Edited by Aubrey_Boy on 19th Oct, 2017.

Some images of what was done over the weekend, I've been considering modifying what I did so I went in and took a few photos this afternoon:



The area where the heelboard meets the sills has been hacked about a bit as I was experimenting with modifying this area to integrate the sill axle stand tubes so this needs to be put back yet.

Basically as it stands I have tried to create a deeper section in the area where the trailing arms mount, so there are 6 bucket bushes to connect the inner and outer skins together, then there is the horizontal fold to add stiffness specifically in the toe stiffness direction.

What you can see has added 240g, if the inner bushes look slightly lower than outer ones that's because they are, the trailing has a nominal negative camber of 0.5 deg. The problem is that as soon as you add fixed bushes to stiffen an area up it means you can no longer bend / move the mounts as you can say with the std subframe.

The bucket bushes are as small as possible which means I have to use k nuts which I would have anyway, the bucket bushes are welded in but the additional skin is just placed on.

As you can see the outer mount uses combination of the original subframe mounts and 2 new bucket bushes, it was a no brainer for me as using the original subframe mounting holes as this solves the worry of outer mount stiffness as the area where the sills and the heelboard meet is as stiff an area as there is from the standard shell.

Cheers

Edited by Aubrey_Boy on 24th Oct, 2017.

ahh i see , i thought you were fixin the arm straight to the heelboard ,and gusseting triangulating inside the car along the floor .i supose that would shorten the wheelbase a few inches .

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

Yes, that's the plan, I just have to get creative with the bolt on mounts and how I mount them to keep the wheelbase as standard.

I did a few triangulation trials and the floor isn't especially stiff in this area and gives little support back to the heelboard as it's sort of in the middle about as far from the the inner sill or tunnel (these being the stiffest areas of the floor).

That's why I decided to take any additional supports back towards to the inner sill area, I plan to refit companion boxes of a sort and that will help hide more triangulation back to the sills as and when I add it

Edited by Aubrey_Boy on 25th Oct, 2017.