K1100 16V Turbo build...now transmission build.
Turbo Mini Forums

I managed to build the gearbox up today, which didn't seem as fidly as I'd imagined, but at least I know it can all be built up inside the casing now.

Now I just need to work out whether the selector drum is ok in its current location or whether the crank will hit it?

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

Still lots to squeeze in there!

Wowsers! Is the drum higher than the centre web? It's hard to see from the pic.

In the 13's at last!.. Just

I think its level with the radius on the top of the centre web...from what I remember it sat about 10mm above the oil pick up bracket.

Relocating the dowels on the selector forks is an option, but obviously more work that might not be needed.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

bring it over matt and we could plonk a block and crank on it and see?

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

Jealously is a cruel mistress

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


Fibreglass Parts? - http://www.tdkracing.co.uk/
Split Rims? - http://www.force-racing.co.uk/

Now that is looking goog

Looking really good, I've enjoyed following this build massively.

If it fowls could you put a spacer plate between the box & the engine, rather than redo the dowels on the selector forks? obviously this will bugger up the drops but as your already going for a custom setup it might not be too bad.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

Matt could you not come outside the box using the outlet where the blanking plate normally goes, then route it left and back in?

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


Fibreglass Parts? - http://www.tdkracing.co.uk/
Split Rims? - http://www.force-racing.co.uk/

This thread makes me feel like a total noob at fucking about with cars. Serious envy!

turbo 16v k-series 11.9@118.9 :)

Denis O'Brien.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

I had the shaft ground down today .02mm over size, then I gently heated the hardened sleeve up and tapped it over the shaft.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

great build looking forward to see the final results

Done now needs redoing lol

Hi Matt,

Happy you are full on steam again with this project. Also happy to see the pics.

The drum of your VFR800 box is just cut the oposite of the blackbird box. I hoped to be able to use the same drum like yours but there is a size difference (again): the two outer grooves are 1,22 mm more far away. I could recommend to you to use the "6 star" at the end of the drum in type of the blackbird. The points are not sharp but like lobes. Therefore the force to lock the drum in position will be larger due to steeper hills.

Nice to see the pockets you have milled around the bearing of the input shaft. Curious how the axial forces finally will be tamed. Using straight but gears they won't be there that much, but for true locating the shaft you need something.

It already was clear to me the drum has to be lower mounted below the bow area. All windage trays (if used) are on same position or a little lower.
Funny to see your jig to modify the dowels on the forks. Could be mine, as I made that also two weeks ago, haha!.
I will opt for dowels made of "silver steel".
On new position the fork will be flattened first and drilled. Then the new dowels will be hard-soldered in. Will you also go this way?
Nice to see the last pics of the hybrid shaft. True steel-porn I handed over my design last week to the contacts to produce. Just on small details there is difference (choice of spline type etc) but generally the same.

good luck!!

regards, Bart

Hi Bart, yeah ive got that star indexing bit, but im still deciding which side of the web to mount that on.

Im macining a thrust bearing up out of phosphor bronze to take the axial load. This evening I managed to break my lathe after the tool dug in...fingers crossed its fixable!

I thought about silver steel, but then I also had some EN36 so went for that as I thought it would take a thead better. I started drilling the selectors today, The plan was to tap them M7 then locktite them in...but siilver soldering could be better now you mention it. :)

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

Wow. That's all my blown mind is able to express right now... :)

[X] nail here for new monitor

Hi Matt,
If you decide to have the indexing star to the drum-side of the web, you probably consider the more older design of commanding the drum. Just like the "mystery box" from that aussie? I checked out some bits and it seems the Kawasaki design might be a good gamble.
Today I checked by mockup the position of the shift drum. IN general the drum itself is not such problem to locate, but more the right place of drilling holes in the web for the bearings. Worser is: the original shift commander system has a travel of app. 10 mm to both sides. This might be disturbed by the gearbox wall, at least in my case. I would like to avoid to have another hole cut in the gearbox like for the 1st gear. I will continue to search for the right mechanism to shift but would be happy to be advised by your findings too.
Cheers, Bart

I managed to drill my selector forks so hopefully it won't be too long before I can decided whether there is room or no for the selector mechanism on the drum side. I am looking at maching the drum down to make some more room.



Ive spent this evening stripping my lathe to see what went bang...looks like it was this! Easy fix as ive ordered a new gear, but I need the lather working to finish making the thrust bearing and dowels for the selector forks...so progress on hold for now

Edited by matty on 23rd Jan, 2013.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

Poor gears...... hope it won't delay you too much and loosing the momentum you have again.

Machining the drum down you mean to take away some from the side I hope, not the circumference

But okay.. what type of selector mechanism will you think of?

Good skills as ever

Woohoo my new gear for my lathe arrived today, neatrly finished the lathe rebuild.

Bart - im going to use try and use the VFR selector mechanism as thats the one I already have.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

OK, curious for your findings. At least the heart-heart distance is 5 mm less some that might give you the right space.
In case you need more VFR800 bits, I have a gearbox set redundant.

Ah there is a part I might need (not 100% certain yet though) and thats the thrust washer with locking plate on the input shaft? To be honest that 5mm could make all the difference of it fitting in and being able to use the original mechanism.

The lathe is now repaired and ive finished off machining the part the broke it.

The large chunk I started with!



The top hat shaped bearing retainer.




The bronze thrust washer that killed my lathe!



My beairng retainer/thrust face. I just need to finish machining the tabs on and silver soldering the bronze onto the steel.

Edited by matty on 27th Jan, 2013.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

nice!