Project "Marginal gains..."
Turbo Mini Forums

I'm guessing that data might not be available ?

It's easy to do a non traction limited run up to a certain speed or say distance and to see the effects of various changes but to do it so that it was more realistic then the longitudinal acceleration for at least the the first two gears would be useful, I guess I could try and follow the accel profile you posted.

Basically i'd keep adjusting the grip level (Mu) and the torque applied until both the initial launch and the remainder of the run looked sensible, can you export say the speed profile and the longitudinal accel as a CSV or readable text file from your 13.1 run?

Cheers

Toms data is in the drag thread stickied in the general section, here's a quick sim ..

Its not perfect on the 60 ft but not too bad . I dont have a logged speed on mine but should be able to do a data file on the g force if i could find the poxy file lol.

Edited by robert on 18th Oct, 2017.

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

Cheers Robert,

Just be clear I am very grateful for the data, thank you, I just want to make sure I am reading it correctly before I try and model it:

OK starting to plot out and sift through stuff:

At time = 7.4 sec long acc is 0.72, I assume a typo and should be 0.27 like the values either side?

At time = 11.15 sec Engine RPM is just 6736 and speed is 125.5 Mph?

I'm a bit confused about the start or what constitutes the start?

At time = -0.2 sec speed is 0 Mph and long acc is 0.93g

At time = 0 sec 'RO' speed is 4.1 Mph and long acc is 0.93g

Was the ET 11.15 sec or do I have to add the -0.20 from the start as an offset to it and all the other time stamps?

Cheers

Edited by Aubrey_Boy on 29th Dec, 2016.

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

Cheers Robert,

Now I understand, this is from sim software you have used.... Sorry for all the questions....

It won't effect any sims I do but "roll out" on an actual drag strip, does this mean you are 'staged' but there can be a distance (albeit maybe very small?) from where you sit to the actual light beam which starts the time clock running, so the start is a light beam which is separate to the staging beam?

Everything I've seen says that the tyre breaks 'the beam' or is it just the first lowest part of the vehicle? Say a front splitter?

Cheers

When you are staged you have your front wheel between two light beams. As the beams are fixed and wheel sizes differ there will always be a gap between launching and cutting the beam. The smaller the wheel the bigger gap.

A low splitter will have no effect on the start, but could potentially cut the end beam before the wheels reach it.

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

www.twin-turbo.co.uk

Cheers Wil,

So the front edge of the tyre breaks the pre-stage beam and the pre-stage light comes on, then when the rear edge of the tyre passes the the pre-stage beam so it is no longer broken the pre-stage light goes off?

When the tyre breaks the stage beam the stage light comes on (Can stage and pre-stage lights be on together?)

If you roll too far forward and the stage beam is no longer broken then the stage light goes out I guess and you get a red light?

So is there a third beam which is the actual start line beam? I think the Americans call it the 'Guard beam'

All the stuff I have read about this seems to be American so not sure if it's the same here, all started by me trying to understand what Robert meant when he mentioned "roll out", all sorts of stuff about shallow and deep staging, depending where you position the car within all these beams?

Cheers

Hi,
I think you are almost there, as I understand it.
Ignore the guard beam for now.
Think of two beams, when the first is broken the pre-stage is lit.
When the second beam is broken by the front tyre the staging light is also lit and the countdown to the start begins.
You can go on to deep stage when the first beam is no longer broken by the tyre if you so desire and the pre-stage light goes out.

If you were to carry on creeping forward and no beam is broken by the tyre before the green light is lit a false start will be recorded.

Keep up the excellent work with the car, I look forward to seeing the finished article in action.

Edited by Nic on 31st Dec, 2016.

Thanks for the comments Nic

Shallow stage seems to make more sense as you effectively get more roll out or more run up to the start line? Not interested in RT.

I just wish I was spending more time on the car but it's going to have to be the odd hour here or there for a bit

So it's a new concept for me but I'm working on the car in 1 - 2 hour hits when I can, I've always normally only gone in the garage if I can stay in there for the day.

Still working on the rear seat back panel, I reckon 2 or 3 more such visits and it will be ready to weld in, if anyone ever suggests trying to modify a largish panel which has to fit inside 3 edges, 2 of which are complex curved shapes, tell them to forget it.... I want it to have an OEM type return edge so at a glance looks like a standard seat back.

I'll put some pic's up when it's done otherwise it just looks like an ill fitting panel which is very, very slowly getting better with time, then it's on to the boot floor.

Happy New year

Cheers

Edited by Aubrey_Boy on 1st Jan, 2017.

happy new year, good idea , fit in the hours when you can , that's what i do .

Edited by robert on 18th Oct, 2017.

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

So the slightly better fitting rear seat back than it was about 5 hours work ago



Half way I'd say now

Some how I think I prefer working in bursts especially on stuff like this which is hardly inspiring but I can see some progress

So glad I haven't welded the rear panel on

Cheers

Edited by Aubrey_Boy on 5th Jul, 2017.

Wow that picture is like an optical illusion :)

Looking good.

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


Fibreglass Parts? - http://www.tdkracing.co.uk/
Split Rims? - http://www.force-racing.co.uk/

Blimey half the car is missing ..

Happy New year

That sir, is not rust, it is the progressive mass reduction system

http://aseriesmodifications.wordpress.com/

Edited by Aubrey_Boy on 17th Oct, 2017.

And best f1 ground effect double blowey diffuser innit !!

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

Double blowey phnaaar phnaar

In the 13's at last!.. Just

So project minimum hub level offset with 10" wheels is still progressing in the background



This is basically what you need to do to the standard 7.5" Cooper S disc in order to fit the Rose petal wheels without the spacers, App K racers do it because they have to in order to fit in with track width regs but I am doing it to minimise lateral offsets. The outer return has been removed so that the drive flange fits hard against the Rose petal wheel when the spacer is removed.

These are this discs and the EN24T drive flanges have been modified as well

I will mock everything up in this project as there is no reason not to, but if I did harbour any intentions to run 10" with this project I would be doing exactly the same.

The plan is to build everything up to check for caliper / ball joint / steering arm clearances now that I have these.

In an ideal world I am trying to source a Minispares / KAD or SC caliper to see if any fit with this configuration

Cheers

Edited by Aubrey_Boy on 5th Jul, 2017.

So when you're not making any progress and you need a boost....

Wheelage....



The mockups with the borrowed Rose petal wheel have gone ok, so time to finally get a set and some ST Minilites too

Finished the seat back and now working on the standard looking boot floor

Cheers

Edited by Aubrey_Boy on 5th Jul, 2017.

mmm liking those black ones.

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

Nice, think i will be fitting rose petals at some point also. Don't know when you plan on getting them but I think mini spares are currently out of stock, wont be back in for a couple of months

Hi Callum,

I have the Rose petals, the ones shown are mine and the ST Minilites, I have gone for a mix of tyres so I can compare them, 032 / 008, especially for the rear

Cheers

Ah sorry getting mixed up, thought the ones pictured were ones you borrowed

I borrowed a damaged one off an Historic App K car for clearance checks, I didn't finish the caliper clearance work I wanted to do but if I have to run modified 'S' calipers with them then that's what I'll use.

So after much deliberation and in keeping with the current heavyweight build thread title I have decided to stick with a standard steel boot floor and battery box.

Using the vehicle lift I now have I have put a vertical load into one wheel and even with the brace I don't like the amount of relative movement between the left and right coilover top mounts, I know this will reduce with the seat back welded in place but as I want this car to handle well as well as trying to save a bit of weight I prefer to sacrifice what is between 2 or 3 kgs by having a steel rather than aluminium or composite floor.

Cornering obviously adds lateral force too and I just don't feel happy about how everything is tied in without a structural boot floor.

If I was definitely fitting a full cage or a suitably tied in rear cage then none of this would matter but I am still not sure

I'm about 60 - 70% of the way through fitting the boot floor, I've taken some photos but they don't really show what I'm trying to do and won't until it's a bit more complete, so I'll put some up when I'm done

Cheers

Edited by Aubrey_Boy on 17th Oct, 2017.