K1100 16V Turbo build...now transmission build.
Turbo Mini Forums

Seriously impressive Matt! Keep up the good work.

My build thread: http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=454802

Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/85313398@N02/

Thanks.

I made a jig today, to allow me to drill all of the holes to mount the selector rod, drum and mechanism.

Marker for selecor shaft.



Holes marked out.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

neatly done matt.

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

I likey

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Mate your wasted in your current job !!! you got skills

1972 998 TURBO SLEEPER

I haven't forgotten about this...

Ive spent the last week making up some more measuring tools, custom drill bits, and a boring tool. I took Wednesday off work to get the bores machined, and after a couple of hours of clocking up the mill, and seeing if I could clock off the shaft I made, it turns out a bridgeport doesn;t have enough height...Doh!

This is the knee wound right down.


I took a trip to Rob walkers today, and he said he couldn't do the job, but he did point me in the direction of a company that could. I paid them a visit and they said they could do it in 2 weeks time...fingers crossed they can, this is becoming a painfully awkward stage to get past!

Edited by matty on 2nd Aug, 2012.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

I bet Rob loved this, he's an enthusiastic bugger from my experience.

Don't you just hate it when you find out your tool is too smal for the job in hand.

Looks good IMO.

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!

Have you sorted the welding distortion now then , Matt ?

Big respect for pushing on with this matty

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Joe - Yeah he did seem really interested, but I could tell it would end up being a massive job for him to do as he isn't really geared up for the type of job.

Dave - Yep all sorted now, I bolted it to my block and using feeler gauges along the gasket faces, I worked out what had gone wrong. It turns out it was only one end that had of one gasket face that had sunk by 0.2mm, I manged to sort that easy enough.

Cheers Jim, I'll be glad to get past this point! 5 months and very little progress is very frustrating.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

what are you trying to do in the photo matty, just bore the top bearing housing or more further down,

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Yeah I basically just clocked up the block so everything was square with the original bearing locations. I was going to drill through the end and centre plate, then use a boring bar to take them out to the final size. Unfortunatley there is not enough height now.

I need to take loads of measurements now as its going on a CNC mill and I need to give dimensions. Im hoping to get all of the centre web machining done at the same time if its possible on a CNC mill.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

Matty,

If you had a 6" riser is there any reason why this can't be done on the bridgeport?

Also - I've always wonderred what would happen if you swung the head round 90 degrees and basically turned it into a horizontal boring mill. I know they are limited to 45 rock on the head in theory but I wonder what would happen if you tried this...

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

Edited by matty on 1st Oct, 2012.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

Thanks for your reply Matt. I fully agree with you about starting a thread. Actually the only thing I can show now is mashed braincells. I use my nights for conceptual thinking... that works fine after late night reading threads like yours. Maybe I will start posting on the dutch mini seven forum, but in english, just for the fact this might help me with getting local support. So far so good, as I got two nice gearboxes to play with for a bottle of wine.

Now tehnical:

One of my concerns was also the change in rotation needed for the new input shaft. I saw your remarks about it after study on the "mystery - guy" gearbox. You feared the inout gear would not have enough support from only side bearing and thus considering an extension which enables a second bearing to be mounted in the drop gear case. At first sight I thought this is very plausible, but then I woke up. In my believe the one sided support is sufficient unless the first bearing on the shaft is strong. BUt space for it is not that much available I saw.. Reason that the original setup has double sided support is only for the fact that the original mini input shaft is nothing more than a short piece of steel with one gear on the other side of the mainbearing. In that situ immediately would start wiggling. Therefore the second bearing in the drop gear case. Just compare the situation with the other side of the gearbox: the pinion to the crownwheel is also only single sided supported and due to the gearing it has to take many more torque. What about this mindspin? It will save many other hurdles to overcome, because the bike gear input shaft would be longer and most of the time that means it doesn't make life easier for assembling.

I am eagerly waiting for the bike gears to come and start measuring. Still I am thinking of using a rod controlled gearchange as I still like a little old-school appearance. I have worked a lot with dog boxes in H pattern and also sequential, but those were ready-made (Peugeot 309 GpA and 306 MAXI). Oh yeah.. I also played a lot with LEGO, that always helps


cheers!

matt ,my mill has a head that goes 90 degrees if its any use .

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

Robert - It may well do for another maching operation I need to do, thanks for the offer. :)

Bart - There are two ways around it.

1. Have a new 1st motion shaft made with a new gear machined onto it the same type as the bike gears. Then on the layshaft have splines machined onto original shaft and have a gear to mesh with the new 1st motion gear. Then all of the gears are on the inbetween the two main bearings. One main problem is space becomes even tighter inside the box, there is room for an extra gear for sure, but whether you could get the shaft in with an extra gear is another story.

2. Have a layshaft support bearing...this is how I am doing mine. The new layshaft has a support bearing built into the shaft design (also being machined in the next few weeks).

These are my transfer housing mods so far. This block will be welded into place and then bored out to fit a idler support bearing. And then obviously trimmed to fit. :)

Edited by matty on 1st Oct, 2012.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

Matt, you are making a nice sculpture. It all depends how welding etc will be experienced after first findings of true measurements. It would be very frustrating to have found a solution which fits, but cant be mounted haha. Have fun !

edit: the aluminium you finally used, was it that 6082 T651 type?

Edited by Streetscreamer on 1st Oct, 2012.

I might missunderstand what you are tying to do, but could you not have used a lathe with the tool in the chuck??

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Bart - Yeah I went for the 6082 in the end, and it welded really well to the casting.

Vegar - Yep no reason whay it can't be machined in the lathe. That was my original plan (hence the milling of the underside of the box to make it flat). The problem with that was the lathe I had access to didn't have quite enough centre height to fit it on and bore it in the right place.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

Matt, I received my goodies today, started measuring. Happy to see the 6th gear of the CBR1100xx set is easy to exchange with the VFR800 set, making larger steps. I was puzzling the gear ratchet shaft with shift drum and tried to verify in the bike manual to get an idea on what distance these need to be. Do you have any idea what should be the distance between these?

Eeeek1 forgot something. I saw you made your own hybrid shaft massive. The original is hollow, but also having some lubrication holes to the splines. As both shafts will be dipped in engine oil , you consider this should be enough for lubricating the splines and bushes? (rpm will be some lower than in the motorbike..)

Edited by Streetscreamer on 3rd Oct, 2012.

Thats something I haven't even started looking at yet to be honest. But I have a complete box from Robert, its a smaller gearset but the rathceting system looks to be the same, so I'll dimension off that when the time comes.

Yeah I basically figured with the gears being submerged in oil, and with the oil spraying off the crank, that should be enough to lubricate it. If needs be, some oil squirters could always be used.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi