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Graham T

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608 Posts
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Hungerford, Berks

Here is another photo of the front panel mounting brackets. – I did not get exactly the same aspect on both brackets, but you get the idea.

I have measured the lower lip on the front panel and the corresponding “tag” on the mounting brackets: For both sides the dimensions are the same, so you can see how much higher the bracket was installed on the driver side.



There is a small lip turned inwards on the main vertical strengthening bracket on the driver’s side.
In the top left corner of the photo you can see it is fouling on the mounting bracket (yellow ring in the above photo), stopping the mounting bracket from sliding down the front panel any lower.
I have cut a small part of this lip out and now the bracket lines up better – though I still have to get it clamped and all assembled on the car to make sure I weld it back in a better position.



I also managed to make a better job of getting the spot welds drilled out this time, without causing too much damage to the main front panel.



Edited by Graham T on 10th Jun, 2020.

’77 Clubman build thread
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=618189

Siamese 5 port EFI testing
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=611675


Graham T

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608 Posts
Member #: 1106
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Hungerford, Berks

At last, 2 months later and something to report.

Front end now completed – almost…


There are a few runs to rub and mop out and a little orange peel in some area’s but overall, not as bad as I had anticipated my first spray job to go. (Although, this was the second attempt)










There is also a shrinkage mark in the passenger wing I have to deal with. The panel had a dent on delivery and that needed filling. It is just above the end of the compressor tank reflection in the above photo, about 50mm long, going vertically, but it is not visible from the angle the photo was taken.


Here was the first attempt, which went horribly wrong.







And before that, the guide coat, which turned out to be just slightly more like a full coat of primer/ colour and proved a bit tough to flat back.











Now, the reason this has taken so long???

Well, even after relocating the driver side mounting bracket, I still could not get the panels to fit and line up as I expected/ wanted.
Lots of moving, clamping, checking measurements and repeating over about 5 weekends and I found eventually that although I had said on the previous page that the wings measure the same side to side



On 8th Jun, 2020 Graham T said:


…By the end of day on Saturday, I was convinced that I had completely screwed up the shell, to the extent that is was twisted beyond recovery.
After all: the wings are the same length and the subframe appears square so how can this be possible:




there was in fact a difference between the lengths.


Because of the curves, etc its difficult to measure, but I got a 5mm difference at the red and green positions, and only around 2 – 3mm at the yellow position.





So, is the passenger side wing too short, or the Drive side wing too long?

I think the Driver side is too long, because I had to pack it out between the subframe and front panel mounting brackets.


Regardless, by this point I had already done a load of work to the driver side wing, creating guides to slide the wing into the A-panel and welding on the quick release clamps.






so rather than undo all that work and cut the wing to make it shorter, I opted to extend the passenger side wing.
After all, an extra 5mm space in the front might mean that I do not need to relocate the intercooler when I move the engine across from the coupe.


The gap between bonnet and scuttle panel is a little larger than normal like this, but that’s a compromise I was willing to make.


Once I got this all mocked up with a 5mm pack of “shims”, I measure everything again and it was pretty much spot on.

Height of the wings at the front were within 2mm of each other ( previously the passenger side was 11mm higher) off of the subframe.
I had a datum set from the top arm flanges on the subframe, using a long aluminium level extending out past the arches in the wing. From datum to arch lip were around 1mm out side to side, and most importantly, measuring from the damper mount to the wing, these were now identical side to side.
Previously, when clamping the assembly in place to the A-Panels, these measurements were all over the place, so gap from tyre to arch and how much tyre would be exposed side to side was completely different.


Packed with shims:








Take the plunge and cut the wing:








Get it all welded up:







What this of course also meant was that the top of the wing was wrong to the corner of the scuttle panel, so that also had to get some grinder action.






Stupidly, I never got photo’s of that finish welded.



So, as you can see, I had to bodge the whole thing to get it to fit anything like properly.


However, the bonnet fits well, with a nice even gap down both sides and I feel happier that its all at around the right height with tyre to body gaps now at least being in the same universe as each other.




Total time taken so far for the whole project, according to when I think I started on 12th October 2019:
301 days

Total time fitting 3 panels that should not really have been that difficult:
63 days.


For now I am putting the front end out of the way in the spare bedroom so that it can sit and let the paint harden before I try to screw up the paint again with WetOrDry and a mop.


This weekends mission is to finish rubbing down the guide coat on the bonnet and hopefully get a top coat on it, then strip the black stuff off of the new roof and get that primed with Epoxy.


if I can get that far today, then tomorrow its angle grinder action and cut the old roof off.!


Edited by Graham T on 8th Aug, 2020.

’77 Clubman build thread
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=618189

Siamese 5 port EFI testing
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=611675


Graham T

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Hungerford, Berks

Bonnet completed for now:






again a bit of orange peel, but not too bad I think.


And the roof skin underside in Epoxy primer, ready to go on.



’77 Clubman build thread
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=618189

Siamese 5 port EFI testing
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=611675


shane

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Lowestoft, Suffolk.

I appreciate its been a long road of late, but there has been some decent progress in a very short period of time. Its really starting to look the part.
Shane


evad1980

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Stansted, Essex

Very, very nice work here.... great detail 👍


Graham T

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608 Posts
Member #: 1106
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Hungerford, Berks

On 8th Aug, 2020 shane said:
I appreciate it’s been a long road of late, but there has been some decent progress in a very short period of time. Its really starting to look the part.
Shane



Yes, it just gets frustrating when something that you think should be straight forward turns out to take much longer than things which you think are going to be complex.

Cutting this roof out and replacing with the new panel should be interesting!

Also, Wolfie lent me his spot welder a while back and until now I’ve not used it. So now I have to learn how that works.


On 9th Aug, 2020 evad1980 said:
Very, very nice work here.... great detail 👍


Thanks.
I have my Father visit every now and then to check on progress and I cannot stand the shaking of the head and tut, tut, tut’s when something does not meet his approval, so its got to be right. (or well hidden) 😊

’77 Clubman build thread
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=618189

Siamese 5 port EFI testing
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=611675


Rod S

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Good progress.

On 9th Aug, 2020 Graham T said:

Also, Wolfie lent me his spot welder a while back and until now I’ve not used it. So now I have to learn how that works.


Re. the spot welder, depending on what Wolfie's make model is, my best suggestions would be,

1 - make sure the ends of the "electrodes" are properly profiled and correct diameter. They usually have a tool to go in a pistol drill but I do it in my lathe.

2 - make sure the arms are parallel, ie the electrodes are not too short after repeated re-profiling to keep the main arms parallel.

3 - most important..... the electrodes are NOT copper, even though they look like they are. They are a copper/chromium/zirconium alloy that has a much higher annealing temperature than copper. So, if they are getting too short, use the right stuff. The only place I've found it at sensible prices in the UK is here
https://migtigarc.co.uk/mallory-bar-3037-p.asp

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


shane

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Lowestoft, Suffolk.


I can totally understand that having taken ten years to build, fit, and wire a new engine.
Keep up the good work though, this really is a Stella effort.

Shane

On 9th Aug, 2020 Graham T said:
On 8th Aug, 2020 shane said:
I appreciate it’s been a long road of late, but there has been some decent progress in a very short period of time. Its really starting to look the part.
Shane



Yes, it just gets frustrating when something that you think should be straight forward turns out to take much longer than things which you think are going to be complex.

Cutting this roof out and replacing with the new panel should be interesting!

Also, Wolfie lent me his spot welder a while back and until now I’ve not used it. So now I have to learn how that works.


On 9th Aug, 2020 evad1980 said:
Very, very nice work here.... great detail 👍


Thanks.
I have my Father visit every now and then to check on progress and I cannot stand the shaking of the head and tut, tut, tut’s when something does not meet his approval, so its got to be right. (or well hidden) 😊


Graham T

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608 Posts
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Hungerford, Berks

On 9th Aug, 2020 Rod S said:
Good progress.

On 9th Aug, 2020 Graham T said:

Also, Wolfie lent me his spot welder a while back and until now I’ve not used it. So now I have to learn how that works.


Re. the spot welder, depending on what Wolfie's make model is, my best suggestions would be,

1 - make sure the ends of the "electrodes" are properly profiled and correct diameter. They usually have a tool to go in a pistol drill but I do it in my lathe.

2 - make sure the arms are parallel, ie the electrodes are not too short after repeated re-profiling to keep the main arms parallel.

3 - most important..... the electrodes are NOT copper, even though they look like they are. They are a copper/chromium/zirconium alloy that has a much higher annealing temperature than copper. So, if they are getting too short, use the right stuff. The only place I've found it at sensible prices in the UK is here
https://migtigarc.co.uk/mallory-bar-3037-p.asp



Wolfie left me a length of material for replacement of the electrodes, so I’m covered there I think.
And a few weeks ago I did some reading using a spot welder and on profiling the electrodes. The profiling is much more complex than I had imagined it would be.
With this spot welder, the electrodes can be moved in the arms after reprofiling so that the arms remain parallel.



Before I get to that though, the next big challenge is going to be sorting out the gutters.

This is just a corner as example, but the gutter is in similar condition around the whole car. I wish I had noticed this before I bought the panels, because I would probably have bought full side, front and rear panels.



I think the radius of the gutter is ¼” and I guess I can form new sections. But welding the new sections in might be interesting…



At least with the roof out of the way now I can also get the rust cleaned up above the doors and windows.








On 9th Aug, 2020 shane said:

I can totally understand that having taken ten years to build, fit, and wire a new engine.
Keep up the good work though, this really is a Stella effort.

Shane
...


Thanks Shane.

’77 Clubman build thread
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=618189

Siamese 5 port EFI testing
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=611675


hazpalmer

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I feel your pain about the new front wings. My clubman estate has had a new front end (previous owner) and its a poor fit. The front panel is aligned badly so makes tightening the RH pear drop a pain. And the bonnet alignment with the wings etc


robert

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crikey this going to look good.

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM


Graham T

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Hungerford, Berks

On 10th Aug, 2020 hazpalmer said:
I feel your pain about the new front wings. My clubman estate has had a new front end (previous owner) and its a poor fit. The front panel is aligned badly so makes tightening the RH pear drop a pain. And the bonnet alignment with the wings etc


That’s bad for you, but somehow makes me feel a little better knowing it was not just me with such a big issue.
Even after moving the driver side front panel bracket, I still had to file out the holes in the brackets a little to let the whole front panel move around 4mm to the drivers side.

I was probably over the top with getting the fit right, as in all honesty, getting the arch to tyre distances spot on equal side to side was probably not necessary, especially as I will adjust the suspension for corner weight anyway.






On 10th Aug, 2020 robert said:
crikey this going to look good.


I hope so Robert.

I also hope that the engine out of the coupe will fit in as it is: I’m worried about the Intercool and slam panel. Also the bonnet strengtheners clearing the plenum.





I’ve now got most of the remaining roof panel pieces and spot weld removed from inside the gutter channel , but I am still contemplating the gutter itself and how best to repair it.

Making up new pieces looks a little complex, but I’ll give it a go.
I have some 6mm steel rod and flat bar on order to try to make up something to form the new pieces, but my main thought is how to and where to cut off the old crap and weld on the new piece.
I either have to:
Cut half the gutter out, sort of midway across the flat part of the channel and then try to butt weld the new piece to the old – which could be a messy job.
Or
Perhaps only cut the radiused part off and make the new piece slightly wider so that it can be overlaid on flat part that the roof panel welds to.
I can then spot that in place and perhaps tig along the length on the outer edge to blend the old gutter remnants into the radius of the new piece. That might be easier but then I end up with 3 layers of panel (including the roof panel). Possibly not noticeable, but potentially another layer to trap moisture and rot out.

I suppose really the next step will be ensuring I can actually form the gutter correctly before I start hacking anything else out.

’77 Clubman build thread
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=618189

Siamese 5 port EFI testing
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=611675


Graham T

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Hungerford, Berks

Over the last few days I’ve built up a former for the passenger side roof gutter.

6mm rod push into the radius of the gutter, then 3 x 20mm flat bar, ground to suit the curve of the gutter and the width of the “channel”. This piece was clamped to the “channel” of the gutter, pushed up to the 6mm rod and welded to the rod.
Next another 3 x 20mm piece of flat positioned vertically to create a “T” with the horizontal piece of 3 x 20 flat. This was welded to the horizontal 3 x 20 flat. Then a piece of 25mm equal angle iron spaced against the vertical 3 x 20 to make the whole form ridged and keep all the curves.










The new 1mm sheet is then trimmed to suit the curve of the former, so that it follows the lip indicated by the yellow arrows below




Then cut off to around 22mm wide.

It is then clamped to the former with another piece of 3 x 20 flat, which is cut down to around 3 x 10mm.

Something like this:



(But I forgot to take photo’s of this, so a crappy old spare piece of metal is shown)




with the whole lot mounted in the vice, I used a hammer and dolly to form the 1mm sheet around the former.


Because I was only experimenting, I only did one half of the side – back half.

It actually turned out pretty good. But in my excitement that it actually worked, again, I never took a photo until after I had welded it to the shell☹









Sorry – photo’s are not great. I think once I clean up the rusty stuff and get some primer on it, it will look much better.


There are a few tooling marks and the whole thing needs final shaping and clean up. But I will leave all that until after I have the roof installed.

Also, I will possibly make on a small hand former to go around the whole gutter when finished to just to get the radius and angle of the lip consistent - which I think will be easier to do once the roof is in place.

Edited by Graham T on 17th Aug, 2020.

’77 Clubman build thread
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=618189

Siamese 5 port EFI testing
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=611675


Tom Fenton
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Hats off chap, super clever and skilled work making those gutter sections.


On 29th Nov, 2016 madmk1 said:


On 28th Nov, 2016 Rob Gavin said:
I refuse to pay for anything else


Like fuel 😂😂


Graham T

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Hungerford, Berks

Thanks Tom.
Lots of work, especially making up the “formers” but it is definitely worth the effort.




Proper photo of the strip of 1mm held on the “former”.









And after a bit of beating with the hammer.








This is the front half of the passenger side gutter, the front section curves in fairly sharply and it was not exactly right when finished, so it will have to have a little modification work once it gets welded on.









Only one more side and the front and back to go…

’77 Clubman build thread
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=618189

Siamese 5 port EFI testing
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=611675


Graham T

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Hungerford, Berks

After a fairly lengthy hiatus from actually doing anything physical to the Clubman, I’m back on it.

The Gutters are proving challenging to say the least and after seeing the mess I made to the underside of the gutter when welding on the new section to the passenger side, I got slightly despondent and walked away for bit.

After doing other projects…


Building a new pond from fibreglass and moving the decking in the garden around:
























And making the Snowman:

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=620629



Then I decided to completed my shopping list of parts needed to complete the Clubman so that I knew how much I could spend on Christmas presents for everyone else.
I think around £6k to spend yet (and that excludes replacing the engine in the coupe).

(That left me with no choice: I bought a multi-pack of Twix to share out for the family Christmas presents)

The front subframe is rotten in places, so that has to be replaced. Also the rear was going to be replaced anyway, so there is a big chunk of money.

As I have gone so far with the shell, I’ve made the decision to replace as much as possible with new, so that I end up with something that will last.



By this point, it was all but Christmas and I had ran out of excuses as to why I should not get my arse back out in the Garage and get on with the clubman.

’77 Clubman build thread
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=618189

Siamese 5 port EFI testing
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=611675


Graham T

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Hungerford, Berks

So here we are back at it.


I have done a little more to the gutters, working on the rear gutter - but not much to shout about yet.


My main focus – And only because I was already in fibreglass hell in the garage due to making something for my father – was to start making up replacements for the door cards, rear quarter trims and rear parcel shelf.

However, as yet I have not got to those parts yet. Instead, I decided to see if I could take a usable mould of the Under riders and bumpers.

The Under rider mould actually came out well.







So I thought I’d try a test piece in Carbon fibre:





It did not come out too bad for a first off.
The biggest issue was the fact it did not consolidate very well.
Being cold in the garage and the Epxoy resin was a bit thick – At least I think that’s why there are a few patches with no resin.

It weighs in at 75g.
This is 8off 300g layers with a 1:1 resin to cloth ratio.

Personally ( and the jury is still out), I think it is too thick. The carbon fibre measures ~ 3 – 3.2mm thick and I could balance the mini on it without crushing it.

But as a test piece, it is fine.


Next up was to mock up the bracket to bond to it.
If we are going lightweight, then I guess Aluminium will be good – not too thick either.




Not too bad a fit.



I made it slightly larger than require for this test piece, because I am sure I can drop the carbon fibre down to only 5 layers and reduce the thickness and there for weight.

Total weight for the New Under Rider is 110g.

So that’s against the 280g of the original part.

Seems to fit well on the front end too:








The new 5 layer piece is still in the mould, waiting for me to release it.
I am hoping it will still be stiff enough and should now only weigh in at ~45g.

I left the pot of resin inside all day yesterday just to get it a bit warmer, which paid off, because when mixed, it was definitely easier to apply.
Hopefully when I release the new part it will be a slightly better finish than the first one.

I’m not too worried about the over all appearance though, because I am not a great lover of Carbon fibre on display, so regardless, it will get a coat of Epoxy primer and colour matched to the satin or matt (or whatever) black I use for the rest of the trims.


I also completed the mould of the front Bumper yesterday:











I have also laid up Carbon Fibre on/in this and it is also currently waiting on me to try to release it.




I have to admit, I’m not so sure how this one will turn out.
This is 4 layers of 380g cloth, which was bargain basement stuff. It was intended for the interior trims which will be covered with thin high density foam on one side and and scrim foam and leatherette on the other.
My concern is whether the weave prints through – In which case I might need to either put on a top layer of resin or most probably buy some better quality Carbon fibre cloth as a face coat then back up with the cheaper stuff.
each layer of carbon fibre was 70g of cloth – so should be a total of 140g x 4 layer, should have a total of ~560g – obviously less brackets at this point.
That is compared to 1750g of the original metal bumper.

I’m not going to get too carried away with weight, but I do want this thing to come in slightly lighter than the coupe (840Kg). Knowing the seats I put in will be heavier than original (MX5 mk2 with separate head rests) and the weight of all the turbo gubbins I know I need to cut some weight somewhere…


Edited by Graham T on 29th Dec, 2020.

’77 Clubman build thread
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=618189

Siamese 5 port EFI testing
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=611675


Graham T

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Hungerford, Berks

New Under rider in Carbon Fibre with only 5 layers of
300g comes in at…


85g

That’s now a thickness of ~2.2mm


I can now just about flex it in my hand, but I still think strong enough.

Also, it looks like I got this one finished OK too, no missing resin on the surface.
So, I will now make a second tomorrow to finish the pair.



Front Bumper:

I trimmed of the excess before I tried to release it and it came fairly easily.




There are a few area’s where the resin is missing on the face. I need to decide whether to scrap it or try to repair. I guess the issue is whether the resin is actually missing all the way through all of the cloth or whether this is just patches on the face.
More reading to do on possible reasons.
ie – perhaps too much resin.



The actual fibre where those “holes” are is actually solid…





Weight wise, it was a lot lighter than I thought it should be.

That had me scratching my head until I realised:
a) I had some left over resin when I had finished
b) I cut the strips 5” wide to make sure I had enough material when preparing (this is what I weighed to work out the amount of resin to mix). In fact around an 1” was cut off before lay up.
c) I’ve just cut a whole load more off before removing from the mould.
Duh!

So it is actually 440g

Thickness is averaging at 3.2mm

Over the length of the bumper it is slightly flexible, but I guess when it is mounted with 4 decent brackets it will stiffen up a whole load.

’77 Clubman build thread
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=618189

Siamese 5 port EFI testing
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=611675


shane

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Lowestoft, Suffolk.

Great way to make a come back Graham.

Shane *Clapping*


e5tus

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Dorset

Good call walking away and finding something else to do! Nice job on the parts so far.


Graham T

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Hungerford, Berks

So yes, I am still trying to avoid the roof gutters at the moment, I have actually done at least a bit to the gutters, but I have been mostly busy with making the internal trim.

More on all that later once I get some photo’s up together.

For now, finally got the seats that I think will work for me.

Nothing innovative really, as I know loads of others have already done this, but MX-5 seats. Not the tombstone type, but those with the separate headrests.
They seem to be like rocking horse shit, so when a set appeared on ebay last weekend, I decided to take a chance.


Not bad for £60



































It's just the £38 quid for delivery that pissed me off.

Complete with runners, which saves a bit of money too.

Plastic Trims are good – no bad scuffs
bases are not too rusty – just a little light restoration I think.
foam is in good shape too - even the drivers seat where the cover is completely worn.
Recliner action works, and so do the runners.

They just need reupholstering.

I’ll get a leatherette kit which I have found in a charcoal/grey with black stitching. (Photo is red stitching I know. And they are for the tombstone type, but that’s the best I could get for a “sample”)



They are £145 for the pair of “covers”, plus £6 for the hog rings and £35 for the tool.

So in total £284

£142 per seat looking nice and new.
Bargain I think – or rather hope.

I might just have to offset them about ¾” inch inboard to get the clearance on the companion boxes, but until I get them bolted up in some form or another and the peddle box and steering column in, I’m not sure.
Also, I am thinking on how I can make the rear mounts “Adjustable”, so that I can easily alter the base angle If I need to, without adding masses of weight.

The same supplier for the front seat covers will supply me extra leatherette and thread for the rest of the trim (door cards, etc) and they are in the midst, I hope, of sorting out a quote to make a set of covers for the rear seats, so that they match.

Edited by Graham T on 9th Jan, 2021.

’77 Clubman build thread
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=618189

Siamese 5 port EFI testing
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=611675


Jimster
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love the front bumper, fancy making me one??

Team www.sheepspeed.com Racing

On 15th May, 2009 TurboDave said:

I think the welsh one has it right!


1st to provide running proof
of turbo twinkie in a car and first to
run a 1/4 in one!!

Is your data backed up?? directbackup.net one extra month free for all Turbo minis members, PM me for detials


Graham T

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Hungerford, Berks

On 9th Jan, 2021 Jimster said:
love the front bumper, fancy making me one??


Potentially, Yes.
BUT, I do not want to commit to that at the moment.

I’m still learning with Carbon Fibre layup, and I’d not be comfortable at the moment making anything for anyone - especially if the weave is to be on show.
I think the voids I have in the outer resin layer that I got when making the first Bumper were due to:
a) the wrong type of cloth – ie I used 12k 2 x2 twill 380g and from what I have read since, I believe I really needed to use a lighter weight with something like 3k tow, for the initial layer, which is less stiff and more able to conform to the complex curves I am trying to mold around, then move to the stiffer and thicker 380g 12k to add stiffness on subsequent layers.
b) My consolidation technique needs some more work/ practise.
c) I’m struggling with keeping temperature up in the garage.

I am also worried about the stability of the shape – will it move over time, especially as it was fairly cold when I made it, and will it move once temperature starts to rise…
Also, I have a plan for the brackets and bonding them to the Bumper, but I have not got that far at the moment, so I am not sure how successful it will actually be

So the bottom line, perhaps in a few months time…

’77 Clubman build thread
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=618189

Siamese 5 port EFI testing
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=611675


Graham T

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Hungerford, Berks

Before I go out and freeze my nuts off again today:
I never got as far as I thought I would yesterday, so not really much to show.

The Companion box liners:

Had a bit of a screw up with one of the sheets of Carbon fibre, so the are not the prettiest look pieces, but functionally they are fine.




Scrim foam on one side




And 2mm foam on the other.






Currently the weight of each part is 153g, but I am guessing adding another 10g or so when the leatherette is glued on.
That’s against 385g for the originals – Obviously though I do not have the really thick soundproofing glued to mine that the originals have.
These can now go in a box somewhere until I get the leatherette to finish them off.




For the door cards, I continued my “voyage of discovery” with laying up Carbon Fibre.

I got an old double glazing unit from the local glazier to use as a nice smooth flat surface.
A few coats of honey wax and a layer of PVA release agent, then layed up 2 layers of 380g Carbon fibre.

For the first of the door cards, I used a piece of polyester sheet on top of the layup after I had lightly consolidated the resin and cloth with a paint brush.
Laying the polyester sheet over the top allowed me to get a bit more aggressive with the consolidation, using last years AA membership card as a squeegee.



It actually came out not too bad at all.

And the rear of the sheet is also better than I thought too. Much flatter and a more consistent thickness overall.
Though you can see I did get a bit too agressive and pulled the cloth a bit in some area's.





I nearly made a massive cock up though when cutting the sheet down to size.
The original door card was used as a template and when I was checking out the markup before cutting, I realised it was out of square by a considerable amount. So I re-marked the sheet, leaving the card about 3mm larger on all edges than I think it needs to be.
I will now leave this piece and put the foam on the back and scrim foam on the front when I get the doors back out in the garage to build up. This way I can finish of shaping the door card against the door, not the shite old door card.

Based on how much better this sheet turned out than previous sheets that I have made (companion box trim for example), I have decided to stop being a tight arse and buy the proper peel ply to do the job properly.

Weight of the original door card I have is 1110g.
The carbon fibre piece is currently 605g, but I have foam, scrim foam and leatherette to add, so I envisage this weighing somewhere around 800g.

Today is bumper bracket creation and hopefully getting a final coat of epoxy primer on the under riders and bumper.

The finishing paint for the bumpers and the rest of the trim (plus wheels) is on its way somewhere, currently stuck at Charles de Gaulle airport according to the tracking service. It is some sort of expoy / polyester concoction which is supposed to be as hard as nails and specifically suitable for wheels. I am going with a matte black (40 degs if that means anything at all to anyone).

Edited by Graham T on 10th Jan, 2021.

’77 Clubman build thread
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=618189

Siamese 5 port EFI testing
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=611675


Yo-Han

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North of the Netherlands

That's impresive Graham!

Dazed and Confused....

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