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Rod S

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The procedure for setting the 36-1 wheel up for 90 BTDC varies a bit depending on which manual you read but the aim is - as you say - to achieve the missing tooth passing the sensor 90 degrees before No1 (or No4) reaches TDC.
It will rarely be a pefect 90 degrees so you set the actual figure in the software after using a timing light.

Why you are having to enter 270 degrees, I cannot explain but Paul probably can. I use the MS2 siamese code and the setting that works is 90 degrees for me and the others I know who use the MS2 (unless anyone else knows different).

The point I was making on the composite log is your secondary tach (cam input) should be occuring at 120 BTDC.
Yours seems to be 20 degrees AFTER TDC which the code might be interpretting as 340 BTDC on the next half of the cycle.
I don't know if the two issues are related but I would start by setting the cam trigger at the figure in the manual (double check it still says 120 BTDC, it's a while since I did mine).

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Barrieri

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Yes you're right about the cam signal. I misread the sentence in the manual. Thanks for pointing it out mate :)


Paul S

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On 29th Mar, 2016 Rod S said:


Why you are having to enter 270 degrees, I cannot explain but Paul probably can. I use the MS2 siamese code and the setting that works is 90 degrees for me and the others I know who use the MS2 (unless anyone else knows different).



I can't explain why it would be 180 degrees out *frown*

If you have the missing crank tooth at 12 O'clock and the sensor at 9 O'clock, then a setting of 90 degrees should work, assuming that the missing tooth is in the right place (which it probably isn't).

This could explain your issues with the ignition outputs.

I would get it sorted as this will also affect your injection timing.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Barrieri

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Yes, the missing tooth is at 12 o'clock and the sensor is at 9 o'clock.

However I haven't understand what do you mean by "assuming that the missing tooth is in the right place (which it probably isn't)"


Paul S

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On 29th Mar, 2016 Barrieri said:

However I haven't understand what do you mean by "assuming that the missing tooth is in the right place (which it probably isn't)"


The missing tooth should be at TDC when the No.1/4 pistons are at TDC.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Barrieri

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Let me rephrase because I'm getting confused. You are saying "The missing tooth should be at TDC when the No.1/4 pistons are at TDC."

My missing tooth is at 12o'clock when the 1st piston is at TDC. The sensor is at 9 o'clock.

Thus when the 1st piston is at TDC, there are 90deg from the first tooth to the sensor (counting the gaps between the teeth).


Paul S

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Sounds like your hardware is set correctly.

It should work with the 90 degree setting. Check yiour coil wiring.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Barrieri

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I'm now thinking that since I'm using a coilpack with two coils, I may need to swap the inputs from the ecu to the coil.

I will check that and give you feedback on it *wink*


Rod S

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To put it another way, the crank sensor needs to see the missing tooth 90 degrees before TDC on No1 and No4 cylinder.
This is primarily to give time for the ECU to calculate the spark advance.

The cam sensor needs to see its input approx 120 degrees before TDC, preferably on Cylinder No1, to prepare the ECU to know whether it is about to calculate sequential settings against the first half of the cycle (1,3) or the second half (4,2).

The 120 degrees does not have to be precise but it must be before, and not too close to, the 90 degree missing tooth.

If it is way too soon, the code may get confused with the other half of the cycle.

I don't know what the absolute limit is for either way too soon or too close to the 90 degree point but just aim for 120 BTDC then all chanels (injection and/or spark) should occur in the correct order and at the correct time.

If you have it on the wrong compression stroke (or the code assumes it is on the wrong one because it's too far away from where it should be) then the sequence of everything will be wrong which may need leads swapping.

So, IMHO, the best thing to do first is be absolutely certain the missing tooth is passing the sensor 90 BTDC on No1 and No4 and then that the cam signal is as close as possible to 120 BTDC on No1 compression stroke.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Barrieri

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I'm on it *wink*


Barrieri

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Soo, I checked about the ignition issue. I left the crank wheel as it was but changed the 270deg in the software to 90 as it should be. I also swapped the two logic inputs to the coil pack. Furthermore I changed the orientation of the cam tooth to 120deg BTDC as pointed out by Rod, and in fact the composite logger showed very similar to his. Tomorrow I will post a picture as I forgot to take one when the engine was running.

Idling seems to be good, however I'm stll getting the tip in problem. Is this a sole Mini problem ? Or does it occur in all engines ? And from where can I read about it ?


Paul S

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Tip-in is a common problem on engines with relatively large throttles. it can be worse when the engine is cold, so it may not be too bad under real operating conditions.

Go to the MS Forum:
http://www.msextra.com/forums/index.php

Search on "Tip-in". Trouble is that there such common words, you get a lot of results, but there should be some useful stuff there somewhere.

But the inner/outer cylinder fuel distribution could be making it a lot worse. Sort that out first.

Edited by Paul S on 29th Mar, 2016.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Barrieri

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I do agree with you that the inner/outer cylinder problems make it worse. But how do I tackle that ? Just by injection timing and VE table ? I also believe that ignition timing table nakes a huge difference.


Barrieri

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Just a quick thought. Would the tip-in issue be affected if the engine is with/without air cleaner ? Maybe it will delay slightly the flow of air on throttle press. Mine is still without an air cleaner as I need to purchase an MPi one to fit my manifold.

Also, yesterday I read somewhere in this forum that if one advances the ignition timing, one would be enriching inner cylinders, whereas retarding it would be enriching the outer two. Is that true ? Or that holds only for "injection timing" and not for "ignition timing" ?

I read the following sites, I guess they really helped me in understanding the siamese issue better.

http://apavlov.pagesperso-orange.fr/mini/e...management.html
http://www.starchak.ca/efi/siamese.htm
http://www.canems.co.uk/siameseports.php

Edited by Barrieri on 30th Mar, 2016.


Barrieri

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Hi guys, yesterday I gave another shot in trying to enriching the outer cylinders. I tried varying the injection timing, together with the VE table and ignition timing. As you said earlier I did notice that by varying slightly the injection timing does make a huge difference in the AFR, however I'm confused in the fact that the wideband on the outer two cylinders is seems to sweep down from rich to lean and back constantly.

After I vary the injection timing and the other parameters it comes to about 13.5. Then it stays sweeping from 22 to 10 and back. I'm confused if this is an issue related to the siamese problem or maybe noise in the wideband signal.


Attachments:

Edited by Barrieri on 31st Mar, 2016.


Barrieri

307 Posts
Member #: 11231
Senior Member

By the way, attached is the trace of the oscilloscope view I'm getting after having settled the timing issue


Attachments:


Barrieri

307 Posts
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AFR Fluctuations Attachment


Barrieri

307 Posts
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AFR Fluctuations Attachment


Rod S

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Rural Suffolk

Composite tooth log now looks correct but try just doing a screenshot (Alt + PrintScreen on your keyboard) then bung it in "Paint" and save as a jpeg.

That would make it a lot easier to view than a photo.

Injection timing is what it's all about if you are doing port injection on an A Series, if you are injection direct into the ports (rather than mixing it way before the ports like a carb) you absolutely have to get this right.

Do you have two widebands, or just one (you keep refering to the outer cylinders only) ?

Provided you have two you should easily be able to see the effects of injection timing.

If you are running an MS3 I'm not quite sure how you vary the VE table(s), Paul has gone down the MS3 route so he can explain better but I still use MS2 which has the option of three injection timing tables and three VE tables depending on whether I run individual cylinder timed pulses (two tables each) or the single pulse (one table each).

Unless you have AFR data for inner and outer cylinders at the same time I'm not sure how you can see what you are doing.

That's not trying to be negative but unless you have both sets of data you will be chasing your tail.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Barrieri

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Yeah I see what you mean. I currently have just one on the outer cylinders but have bought another for the inner cylinders. I'm waiting for it to arrive.

Do you have any clue however why the only wideband I have just keeps sweeping on values when I'm just not changing anything ? In the clip I attached earlier the engine is idling.


Rod S

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Rural Suffolk


On 31st Mar, 2016 Barrieri said:
Do you have any clue however why the only wideband I have just keeps sweeping on values when I'm just not changing anything ? In the clip I attached earlier the engine is idling.


Is it configured right in TS as a wideband ?
Is it actually a wideband controller/LSU ?
That kind of response is from a narrowband sensor.

What make and how did you set it in TS ?

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Barrieri

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Mine is an Innovate MTX-L. I think it's an issue of noise. Do you guys know of a good wideband brand ?


Rod S

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I've never seen noise swing a gauge around as much as that.
Although the video isn't tha clear, it looks typical of a narrowband response.

Is the gauge itself doing that or just the gauge in TunerStudio ?

If it is just the gauge in TunerStudio, are you sure you have the correct setting for wideband in your TunerStudio project ?

Also which colour wire did you connect, brown or yellow ?

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Barrieri

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Senior Member

I've connected the yellow wire, as the brown one gives a narrow band response. The physical gauge also does the sweep. The gauge on TS and the actual gauge agree in their readings. Yesterday I tried to ground it directly to the battery instead to the ms3x ground pins. And I think it helped a bit.


robert

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uranus

have you got ego control on ?

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

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