998 Turbo Build - Slow Progress
Turbo Mini Forums

Car is back home now, I've got Monday and next weekend to get it apart.

And I'd figured you'd been in craig, as there were loads of those blue oil bottles around

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...tid=469104&fr=0

Pahahaha!!!

Did he tell you about mine then!?

Managed to get the car to pieces today, took half the time it did first time around


found an odd exhaust valve in the head that was a different colour to the others, not sure if it means anything though?
(bottom one in both photos)



And then after a long discussion decided not to do the work myself, but to take it to spot-on minis in buntingford, and get him to fix the engine, as i can't afford to do it myself as i need a car now.

so threw all the bits in the car awaiting trailering this week


once this is done i can get started on the two engines currently sitting in pieces in my shed

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...tid=469104&fr=0

Finally some news on this; turns out the reason the clutch was causing problems was the clutch release bearing wasn't even a mini one, so that and the clutch arm was massively worn could have been causing the clutch problems.

In other news the block I was using has a large score in no2 cylinder wall, so will be swapping it for the re-honed one that came out the car.

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...tid=469104&fr=0

Looks to be something amiss, with number 3 inlet valve.

It all looks a bit funny to me, but the tappets were way out for a while so that could be the problem, but i'll lap the valves in again and see if it's the same

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...tid=469104&fr=0

Well, it's been a while but there has been good progress. After delivering the rehoned block to the garage (Spot-on Minis in buntingford) and letting him build it all up, drop it in.

We'd decided to run it N/A while the new rings bed in, so i turned up late last week to help him with the megajolt stuff, and we got it running although it sounded like it was misfiring.

We did every test in the book, changed the plugs, put a dizzy in, did a comp test, check the timing again, did a leak down test, but nothing threw any problems up. Eventually spraying brake cleaner on the inlet manifold showed there was a leak there. What was happening was the turbo inlet manifold was fouling on the exhaust manifold, so we swapped it for a stage one inlet and problem solved.

I'm still having a few issues with the clutch not adjusted properly, but all in all i'm happy with the result, and with the clutch adjusted properly it drives nicely, though the mixture is rather lean and there's blue smoke out the exhaust which I assume is the rings bedding in.

So after a few thousand miles I'll be able to bolt the turbo down the back and go pretty much. all the fuel system is in place already, so i should be a simple swap when the time comes.

So some pictures of how it currently stands:
Engine bay; Lots of space in the front for an intercooler


The mess of wiring for the megajolt, will be tidied up when I have it in pieces to put the turbo in


And it's still running the same pump and reg i was intending to use with the turbo, just no boost feed on the reg and the pressure wound down

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...tid=469104&fr=0

Need some help/advice on the wheel bearing change, i've (finally) got the hub off, drifted the outer races in, but I went to fit roller bearings and inner races and in the haynes is says fit the spacer in between the two bearings, but the spacer is to small to be held in place by anything, and will be loose in between the two bearings.

Have I ordered the wrong bearing kit? or am i just not doing it right..

Some pictures to help:
One with the bearing behind it


one of just the spacer in the hub

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...tid=469104&fr=0

Well, another dose of bad luck, managed to hit some ice on a roundabout today and curb the rear wheel. Now sitting with a couple of degrees of positive camber.

Been thinking there's a couple of things that could be causing this, probably from best case to worst case: Wheel studs bent, Hub bent, Pin on radius arm bent, Subframe bent.

I'm not sure what's the most likely though, what do you think would break/deform first?

Took the wheel off today and the drum is sitting at the same angle as the wheel, further out the back plate at the top than the bottom. Makes me think it' the pin on the end of the radius arm that's bent?

Just wondering if anyone has any better informed opinions.

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...tid=469104&fr=0

Bent/twisted radius arm is my guess.

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.a...0&t=737279&nmt=

I was hoping it was just the bearing shaft, I never expected it to be the radius arm itself though, but after reading that i'm not too sure.

That the brake drum is also angled the same as the wheel though could mean it's the shaft? the backplate doesn't look too out of line, i'll have to take the other side off to compare though

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...tid=469104&fr=0

well that's my bit of knowledge for the day!

I'm going to try and take everything apart today, although because I'm not too familiar with the rear suspension I'm not sure i'll be able to spot anything.

Does anyone have any rear hubs/radius arms they could take some measurements off? just something I could use to tell what's bent.

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...tid=469104&fr=0

Got the backplate off, looks like it's the spindle that's bent. Is part of the radius arm or is it replaceable?







Edit,
Infact, looking at the pictures it doesn't look like it is the shaft, but it does look bent on the car.

Edited by Mike-998 on 20th Jan, 2013.

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...tid=469104&fr=0

I think you might be better off fitting a new arm there.

If you are need of some arms mate, I have a set sat here. As your not far away let me know.

Simon.

I have started posting on Instagram also my name on there is turbomk1golf

Nothing is impossible it just costs more and takes longer.

That's true, I'll have to dig out the haynes to see what's required to change them. Not touched the rear suspension so I haven't got a clue, hopefully I can leave the subframe on?

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...tid=469104&fr=0

I have started posting on Instagram also my name on there is turbomk1golf

Nothing is impossible it just costs more and takes longer.

Some progress on this finally. I decided to completely refurbish the rear subframe while it's apart, so got some good radius arms at bingley, and spent a hell of a lot at minispares.


Initialy started stripping the subframe with a wire wheel with the intension of spraying it, but quickly gave up on that and sent it to be powder coated.

Subframe part way through being wire brushed


Powder coated and assembled front subframe:



No pictures of it on the car but it's all back together and working, tracking needs tweaking slightly but nothing major.

Plan next is to take it to slarks at the begining of aprin (unfortunately not in time for minis vs beetles) and swap the 3.44 for a 3.1 fit the metro turbo brakes, bolt the turbo on and get fueling and ignition set up.

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...tid=469104&fr=0

Yet another problem, I'm not sure what the cause of it is though.

The new engine is burning a lot of oil, and there's a hell of a lot of blue smoke coming out the back. I couldn't really tell if there was a specific thing that caused the smoke, but it did seem to do it worse when under hard acceleration or in going from engine braking to accelerating.

After the rehone new rings were fitted and the engine put together by a professional. The cylinder head has had new guides (and I assume seals??) and was done my smart performance.

It's going to be one of those two that is the problem, either the oil is getting past the rings or it is getting past the guides but how do I tell which?

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...tid=469104&fr=0

have you done a compression or leak down test?

did you gap the rings when you built the engine?

Speeding is like masturbating, everyone does it, but not all of us film it and put it on the internet

[quote=fab,8th Oct, 2010]fuck off

I haven't, I'll check that tomorrow.

And I didn't personally build the engine, but I would assume so.

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...tid=469104&fr=0

could only do cylinders 3 & 4 because those were the only ones I could reach from the side of my car as I don't have a screw in comp. tester, just a push in one. The values I got were both around 190psi, which is 40psi more than it was when the engine was first built. Seems a little high?

The bigger issue I found was the plugs look like this:


So it looks like it's been running really rich. Could this be the cause of the smoke? the rich mixture causing bore glazing?

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...tid=469104&fr=0