k1200rs 1380 engine build
Turbo Mini Forums

managed to have a day in the machince shop and got the gap between the cam buckets sorted,by taking a little off the top of the valve stem, all the inlet are 0.17and all the exhaust are 0.27. Have to say this was very time consuming. Another job done.

Have been able to do a little on the engine bay. covered up the webber box and put a hole a little higher up than normal, so engine bay ready for painting aswell as the cabin. I was thinking of doing it myself, then price up what I needed and the time needed to prep, better if I get someone to do it.

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I know where your coming from; cost of materials to the diy guy can make it extremely tempting to get a pro to do the job.

chiselled and scrapped away at the sound deadening over the weekend, the bulk of it came off easier, it was the scrapping of the residue which was very time consuming but a weight saving gain of around 15kg.

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WWW.TURBO-MINI.COM

Bought a set of arp head studs, wow!!! I was struggling to get the head on without a good hard tap, but with these arp studs the head slides on with ease, these are well worth the purchase. so I can now put the head on.

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Nearly there!

Looking forward to seeing how much power this makes.

little more progress on the engine bay, prepping is hard work, especially when I keep finding bits of surface rust. better to sort it now rather than later

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I was permitted a full day on the car today, so cracked on with finishing and painting the engine bay, cabin and a lick of hammerite on the subframe. Flattening was hard, long and boring, but considering I'm not that good with body work I am happy with the results. I could not get the same colour match but close enough, just need another can to finish cabin off, so all in all a good productive day.

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Some progress is better than no progress and it looks to be coming along quite nicely.

Good luck with the rest of the build.

Life is always a matter of opinion and quite frankly, no ones opinion really matters.

I seem to be getting there slowly but surely

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Nice one, nearly there now!

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www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

Thought I would have an easy straight forward day bolting in the roll cage, hell no, found that the sill is rotten and right in the corner of the wheel arch. what a bummer.

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Could be worse, at least you don't have oversills to deal with.

today I have fitted the fuel lines, both subframes had to be dropped, a bigger hole cut in the boot for the pipes and the fuel line clips fixed to the floor. I also had to cut about an inch from the sub frame to get the pipes into the boot.
The only issue I have today is I have fitted in the mpi fuel tank but the filler neck only just comes out, just enough I think for the petrol cap. not sure if this is the normal or whether taking the sponge from around the neck will make a difference.

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Edited by philc on 2nd Sep, 2013.

My MPi tank was a little short after replacing the sponge seal and outer rubber seal. Just make sure its sitting correctly and the strap is done up nice and tight, mine seams OK now after jiggling it about and tightening the strap (please no one sig that).

Ok so if you managed to get those fuel lines to fit and they will work like that, good, but the fuel lines look to be installed the wrong way round. The front is at the back?...

Also, do you really need he breather line going to the front of the car?

The MPi tank has a shorter filler neck and originally used a different shorter body seal. It was one of those complience things that Rover had to do.

I don't think the tank is in right yet, although the necks stick out les than earlier ones, I'm sure it should protrude more than it is.

To me it looks like the tank flange is sat against the boot lid cable bracket and that you have possibly mistakenly put the strap bolt through the hole in the tank flange too.
If so the tank will move slightly forward and then the top lean over a bit further

Would you be using a force conversion kit?

Instagram: bighill93

Not sure whether today was a good or bad day, the plan was to put new sill on, after a bit of digging around and finding more rust and looking at the floor and wheel arch welded patches. Rather than patching it further so it looks like one of those family quilts, I decided to cut the patches and floor out. The logic is so that firstly it looks better and mostly so I don't have to do it later.





This one shows how many times the floor and wheel arch have been patched, at least three times

URL=http://s201.photobucket.com/user/philc72/media/Twinky/2013-09-19-935_zpsd695de42.jpg.html][/URL]09-19-934_zpse19ccd3b.jpg[/IMG][/URL]


Bought the floor pan from minispares, just had to cut to size and I think it fits well.

Edited by philc on 19th Sep, 2013.

progress remains slow, but is better than nothing at all.

With a little advice from Sprocket I have been able to set the timing and put the cam belt on. there are a couple of bolt head that are rubbing on the belt that need sorting and the tensioner needs to be put back on.

with the timing belt removed position the engine so the pistons are all half way down the bore (be carefull not to let the valves crash with the pistons) set the cams so that the inlet and exhaust cam lobes are pointing towards each other and downwards slightly on number 1 cylinder. Using the DTI on the cam bucket turn the inlet cam so the lobe starts to point downwards until the DTI reads 2.8mm valve lift. Do the same for the Exhaust valve this time the lobe until the DTI reads 2.4mm valve lift. Set engine at Top Dead Center using the DTI to get an acurate setting (procedure for cam timing for 'lift on overlap' can be found on Kent Cams website). Now slacken the cam sprocket adjustment screws and refit the timing belt so that the screws are somewhere in the middle of adjustment. Tension the belt so the belt cannot be turned more than 90 degrees between finger and thumb (does not need much pressure on the tensioner!) Tighten the cam adjustment screws.

As a final check rotate the engine clockwise one full turn and then check the valve lift on each cam at TDC with the belt on. this will require the engine to be turned back and forth a little to allow you to close the valves and set up the DTI. You should still find that the valve lift on overlap is 2.8mm inlet and 2.4mm exhaust. This will get you near the factory timing figure for the BMW RS cams of 102in/106ex

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Phil, the cylinder you are using is cylinder 4. This shouldn't affect the setting of the cam timing though.

Also, those two front bolts of the water pump should be of the counter sunk variety. You should have had those in the parts I gave you. You will need to reduce down the lower most post on the water pump and then counter sink the top. You just need to counter sink the top one.

dropped the engine in today.
purchased a vems ecu, just waiting for that to be delivered, then my favourite thing ever wiring-

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todays update- have put fitted the hardy shafts, and fitted the exhaust manifold, this took a little time as it needed fettling at the end as it was not going into the ports. then noted that the where not cut square.After contacting sc they assured me this would be fine as inside is a copper ring which can adjust and now fitted, but until it started up I have no way of knowing if they are sealed.

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