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Get Carl to make your rods fully floating and make the PTFE buttons

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.

On 30th Apr, 2010 John said:
Get Carl to make your rods fully floating and make the PTFE buttons

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

Why not? WOuld it not be the same process as making a rod fully floating - i.e. just reaming the hole out a bit and adding circlips and ptfe buttons

Ream out the rods, shorten the gudgeon pin and make the PTFE buttons.

As Alexander would say "Simples"

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

The fully floating pistons would come with circlips and probably a place to fit the circlip.

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.

its decided, carl is getting my rods Monday sometime for some work few bits done today

is going to be fully bolt on with bonnet pins for just that, the bonnet, i think you can see how im going to do it, custom front brace bars made solid as it gets, they are also the mount for the front end
more work to do on it typical though out of gas
as it stands ( less lights, wires and bonnet) its lighter than my current grp front

Edited by Brett on 1st May, 2010.

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

I would leave the pins the correct length and use aluminium instead of PTFE for the buttons

im just going to trust Carl with his work let him asses what need to be done

got abit more prep work to do on the dash then ill stick pictures up :)

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

mmmmmmmmmmmm brace bars any more updates mate? hows that dash??

2012 Avon class c 2nd place 13.8 @98mph

dash is 90% ill update later with pics, going to change the front hi/lo today for some i have modified, i have took half inch of them, that should be enough to get it lower :)

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

well swapped these out this morning, new silver out, old modded purple ones in, no pics of before and after though i can almost set it onto the bump stops so i think its about enough

the 10x6 wellers stick out half inch less that the 13x7 on it so atleast its in the ball park

test fitted by callipers for the first time, discs are rather rusty, it brushes off easy so not worried, the discs on the wrong side though imo, ill sort that

pulled my back out lifting the car off the axle stands though, so i havnt rubbed down the dash ill dig a pic out of roughly where im at

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Edited by Brett on 7th May, 2010.

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

Nice build mate, just one thing, is the end of the clutch release pin going to clear those brace bars?? JUst thought id mention it as mine are in the normal place and its quite close .

Dave

Dave the Cake

On 7th May, 2010 Custard said:
Nice build mate, just one thing, is the end of the clutch release pin going to clear those brace bars?? JUst thought id mention it as mine are in the normal place and its quite close .

Dave

Edited by Brett on 7th May, 2010.

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

dash in stages

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Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

and at present, front needs rubbing down again top right needs glassing again and i can start smoothing it off for paint, im happy with the fit now and concentrating on getting it extremely smooth

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Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

Smooth as a cashmere codpiece?

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.

10's! woo hoo. that dash has turned out really well :) look forward to seeing the car mate

2012 Avon class c 2nd place 13.8 @98mph

i just had to do the same to my trumpets, if you weld a 10mm cap head to the top of the threaded part that runs through the alloy part, you can then chop off everything below the locknut. downside is you need to ajust with a very long 10mm hex bar through the tower bolt. but gains you a much shorter hi-lo :)

this is all cause i raised my top arm 2" in the frame though lol

turbo 16v k-series 11.9@118.9 :)

Denis O'Brien.

cheers rich

On 7th May, 2010 evolotion said:


i just had to do the same to my trumpets, if you weld a 10mm cap head to the top of the threaded part that runs through the alloy part, you can then chop off everything below the locknut. downside is you need to ajust with a very long 10mm hex bar through the tower bolt. but gains you a much shorter hi-lo :)

this is all cause i raised my top arm 2" in the frame though lol

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

Dennis,

Why have you made this interesting pic far too small to be of any use? :$

On 7th May, 2010 evolotion said:


i just had to do the same to my trumpets, if you weld a 10mm cap head to the top of the threaded part that runs through the alloy part, you can then chop off everything below the locknut. downside is you need to ajust with a very long 10mm hex bar through the tower bolt. but gains you a much shorter hi-lo :)

this is all cause i raised my top arm 2" in the frame though lol

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

Brett - get yourself some gelcoat. To get the dash really flat and smooth after you have finished with the fg you can poor and paint it on and it self levels. you should only need a thin coat and its very easy to sand to get it ready for paint / covering.

Edited by MarkGTT on 7th May, 2010.

well after about 10 hours of sanding and filling the dash was looking spot on, but looking very plane, i decided to use some textured paint :) i like it, what do you guys think?

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Edited by Brett on 16th May, 2010.

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I think a picture would help

EDIT: Must have been too quick. Looks Prety good.

Edited by apbellamy on 16th May, 2010.