Supercharger Basic Setup - Questions
Turbo Mini Forums

Hi,

I am building a 1310 from a 1275 A+ pulled from a 1989 Mk2 Metro and am contemplating adding a Supercharger.
Current spec:
1310
Hepolite 8cc Dish Pistons
4.5 Deck Height
AC RS Camshaft
AC 1.3 Zero Tolerance Rockers (or at least when I get them)
Metro Electronic Dizzy (Will be re-curved for this cam)
MED ST1 Lightened Flywheel and Clutch Kit
Facet Electronic Fuel Pump
Malpassi Fuel Regulator

The reason for this is that I picked up a Weber DCOE 45 and rather than hide it away in the Bulkhead, having it sticking out of the front of a Supercharger (a) looks a whole lot better and (b) will improve performance © I love challenges and love learning.

Proposed setup:

Weber DCOE 45
SH Eaton M45 or similar (whatever similar is)
DIY Kit https://vmaxscart.com/products/a-new-diy-su...=41285165777056

I believe the Eaton will push out 10PSI and the target CR I have been advised should be 8.5:1

Questions:
1. How do you attached the tensioner pulley? I have seen people modifying Timing Chain Cases?
2. Where / what type of multi Vee belt would I need?
3. DO you need to change the Alternator and Water Pump Pulleys?
3. To monitor the performance of the Supercharger / Fuel Mixture do I need some form of gauge?
4. What PSI setting should the fuel regulator be for this carb on a suck through SC?
5. Do I need 2 x BK450 Head Gaskets with the Compression Plate?

That'll do for now

Speed is just a question of money, so, how fast do ya wanna go?

Hi,

1, tensioner pulley would be better mounted off of a solid surface such as the block or incorporated with something on the front of the block with a substantial fixing. the position of the tensioner will be dictated by pulley sizes and belt length whilst navigating anything else in the vicinity.

2, Vee belt length will be determined by factors mentioned above. ideally the belt needs to be as wide as possible for grip under load.

3, If you are driving the supercharger, alternator and water pump all off of the same belt then yes you need to change the pulleys to Vee type ones.

3, A Wide band lambda gauge is advisable.

4, This I cannot answer as have no experience.

5, A decompression plate is a bit of a bodge, to use one you'd require 2 BK450's. The preferred method to reduce CR is CC's in the pistons and cylinder head, With the block being 1310 you'll need to gain more CC's to overcome the higher swept volume.

Is your deck height in .000"?

As a side note I suggest ditching the dizzy in favour of Mapable ignition such as megajolt as its so much more versatile and easily more tunable.

Shane

Did you check the YT video's as suggested in the VMAX add?

1. For suck through most tensioners are attached to the SC
2. Measure the length with a piece of string and order one at the local car parts store, they can find a suitable one,
3. I think VMAX uses the bottom pulley with multi-V and ordinairy mini V combined in 1.
3. As Shane says; get a Wide band.
4. Not sure either what normal setting would be for Weber.
5. As per Shane's remarks and advice.

Consider Shane's advice regarding mapable ignition.

Han

Dazed and Confused....

Speed is just a question of money, so, how fast do ya wanna go?

Speed is just a question of money, so, how fast do ya wanna go?

Thanks for the response, things are starting to get a little clearer.

I have been communicating with Stuart Garr (Vmaxscart) and Turbo Phil Dawe.

Stuart suggested that an M62 is what I should be looking for, however I believe it will need modifying to accept a Weber DCOE on the end. Can't find any info on this and if the tensioner pulley also needs mounting on it I need some info on that also.

Speed is just a question of money, so, how fast do ya wanna go?

I assume your talking to Phil re a head?
your going to need to have 28cc+in the chambers to get the CR anywhere near sensible to loose the decompression plate.

Shane

If the M62 has a bolt on flange on the inlet end of the blower it shouldn't be too hard to make an adaptor. DCOE flanges are available off of the shelf.

Shane

Speed is just a question of money, so, how fast do ya wanna go?

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Speed is just a question of money, so, how fast do ya wanna go?

you can see on the second picture where the flange has been welded on.

Shane

OK so here's what I have found out so far.

The SC I need is an Eaton M65 not a 62 (pic attached) the one I referred earlier in the thread.
This will need the end chopped off, new bearings and a flange welded on - which come in the DIY kit from Xmaxscart
I believe I will also have to modify the chain case by removing the breather as it will foul the multi vee belt.

Chamber size and decompression plate to to matched to achieve a CR of 8.5:1 allowing me to run 10PSI boost. With a 3cc decompression plate, I need 22.5cc in the head, with a 6cc decompression plate, I need 22.05cc in the head - all very doable. Screenshots attached.

Questions:

1. A guy on TMF suggested that his friend fitted a decompression plate and then found that the head studs weren't long enough and that the bonnet would not close? Any thoughts on this?

2. Hows does not having this breather effect the engine pressure, do you need to fit a breather elsewhere?

3. Someone has also suggested that the Gearbox needs strengthening? Not sure where or what he meant - maybe a Cross Pin Diff? I have rebuilt the gearbox and John Guess did the Diff with a Molybdenum Pin.

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Speed is just a question of money, so, how fast do ya wanna go?

Came on here to ask another question, but thought I’d update this.
So I have got a VMaxscart DIY manifold (someone was selling one they had already made up, but unused). I have. Trigger wheel and sensor. I also picked up an AEM AFR second hand.
I have a coil pack and HT leads.
After taking advice the Diff has been swapped for a 3.1 Cross Pin and the Drop Gear ratio is now 1:1.
What I need now is a twin belt crank pulley. VMaxscart does them, but at £144 I am trying to source a second hand one or cheaper option. I also need to modify the trigger wheel to fit on the inside of the crank pulley and a bracket to hold it in place.

Speed is just a question of money, so, how fast do ya wanna go?

So,

I have now managed to find a Twin Belt Pulley.

https://i.imgur.com/1DR0cwF.jpg

So what I need to do now (well when it turns up) is mount the trigger wheel on it.

Here is the Trigger Wheel, its a Trigger Wheels A Series Wheel, but I need to modify it to fit on the inside of the Crank Pulley otherwise it will foul on the Radiator mount.

https://i.imgur.com/1vrYm2a.jpg

Here is a pic from a guy that advised this.

https://i.imgur.com/l9cejhB.jpg

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Edited by JonnyAlpha on 30th Apr, 2022.

Speed is just a question of money, so, how fast do ya wanna go?

Long time since I've updated on here, lots of posts on FB and in The Mini Forums though.
So after spending a great deal pf time sorting out and fitting the trigger wheel to the Twin Belt pulley I acquired, it turned out its was faulty.
I now have a replacement, however this one is a little different, as instead of fitting a Trigger Wheel to it, it comes with 36 drilled and tapped 5mm holes in the back side around its circumference. When 35 5mm x 5mm grub screws are inserted this makes up the trigger wheel.

https://i.imgur.com/G9dLVDc.jpg

The pulley is made by Stuart Gurr of Vmaxscart and is designed to use the stock MPI Crank Sensor, however instead of mounting to read the flywheel, it is mounted on the timing case and sits behind the Crank Pulley.

https://i.imgur.com/Myl97kB.jpg

Iv'e also now received my ECU, it's a Speeduino.

https://i.imgur.com/QvD9gsj.jpg

Edited by JonnyAlpha on 30th Dec, 2022.

Speed is just a question of money, so, how fast do ya wanna go?

Interesting pulley, never seen one like that before

Dazed and Confused....

Does this pulley have a damper?
Shane

I'll be amazed if that gives the ECU a square wave.

Edited by stevieturbo on 26th Dec, 2022.

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will

Speed is just a question of money, so, how fast do ya wanna go?

Edited by JonnyAlpha on 30th Dec, 2022.

Speed is just a question of money, so, how fast do ya wanna go?

Getting close to finishing the engine install. Next job is modifying and re-wrapping the wiring loom, however before doing so I need to identify additional wiring requirement for running an ECU and Smart Ignition Coils.

I made a rough sketch and notes this morning to try and remind myself of what I need to do.

Before being in a position to strip / modify and re-wrap the existing Loom, I need to work out the following:

1. Power for the ECU and Raspberry Pi - used for entertainment and ECU Dashboard output.
2. Power for AFR Gauge.
3. Wiring up the AFR Sensor to the ECU.
4. Wiring the existing 3rd party Tachometer to the new ignition system (was connected to the Ignition coil)
5. Solenoid Modification (moving from Inertia to Pre Engaged Starter i.e. wing mounted solenoid to solenoid on starter. (I have seen various mods for this on The Mini Forums), I probably keep the existing solenoid as a terminal point.

The changes to the loom need to factor in:

1. Moving the Fuse Box (old style 4 x 4) down and to the left, all new connections and extending the wire (already got everything to do this).
2. Extending the connections to the rear loom as they will now be out of reach due to moving the fuse box.
3. Possibly adding in (or wrapping separately) wiring for:
a. Crank Position Sensor (ECU)
Also need to consider if switching to full sequential ignition and poss Fuel Injection:
c. Inlet Air Temp Sensor wiring (ECU)
e. Three Wire Coolant Temp Sensor (ECU)
f. Throttle Position Sensor (ECU)

For Wasted Spark Ignition (which I will be using from the outset), I only need the following senosr connected to the ECU:
1. Manifold Absolute Pressure
2. Crank Position Sensor

I'll be starting out with a HIF44 modified for a newly built engine (Yellow Spring and BDL Needle IIRC), I'll then (once its been setup with the correct jetting), be switching to a Weber DCOE 45 (why - because I want to).
For both these I need to take a tube from the manifold to the ECU MAP sensor. rather than drilling into the manifold, tapping and screwing in a pipe outlet, for the HIF at least, I wondered if I could just add a Vac Take Off Spacer, like one of these:

http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/MFA446.aspx

For the Weber, I'm not so sure, looks like my 6" manifold had a take off but someone has filled it with body filler.

Speed is just a question of money, so, how fast do ya wanna go?

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will