Josh's turbo 1098cc carburetion sucks lets try EFI
Turbo Mini Forums

ive changed my plans a bunch of times and will post a proper speck list when all built up..

hello i don't really know the best way to start off this build log
anyway my name is josh i live in Australia , Brisbane i own two minis a blue/white 63 Morris witch is in a rather bad way and also own a red/white 73 witch is in a decant condition but now has some rust popping out as i had just gotten my lenience and wanted the mini to be finished so i could drive it so some things had got the she will be right attitude applied when something really needed to be done about it.. i have always loved minis i don't really know why i guess they are grate to drive and COOL don't forget haha i dont realy know a lot about them but i am well keen to have a dam good go
:updated:
i know people say decide how much power you want and build to that but the more the better so long as its useable...



what i have in mind is

1098cc +0.060" so 1150cc pre A+ block
arp head studs 9 at present might drill 11 to help the gasket seal
274 cam and good oil pump
MS3X coil on plug mappable ing with HIF44 turbo carb for now (half way house to EFI)
1098cc 12G82 crank dynamically balanced heat treated lighten and knife edge
arp main cap studs and strap
drill tap oil feed to thrusts due to a grey plate
ground out back of block for more coolant flow around pump
rods lightened, polished, balanced and arp bolts
pistons undecided might be MAHLE and Hastings Ring set 0.060" 6-7cc dish hopping they are good enough i know ben broke a land after 20k but that was at 160 ish hp id be happy at 130 for now or might go to a better set






































202 head modified for N/A as per the yellow book but had not been skimmed so will now make a turbo head as its at 27cc i think bad memory need a bit of work still





box
straight cut clubman gear set + semi-helical 3.7 dif on 13" probably to much for a turbo but at the time it was for a N/A car + cross pin diff the offset one + MED straight cut drop gears with the floating/bushed primary gear bush and roller idler gear + 5/16 block to box alen head bolts and two studs/nuts for the diff + copper gasket kit + new bearings all round and bulk rings (now wish i went dog) as i didn't have any good old ones they are the minisparires comp ones hopefully good enough + center oil pickup needs a strip clean and re assemble as its been siting a while and gathered some dust =(








clutch
AP disc + gray plate + mini spares ultralight flywheel and back plate + med drive straps and bolts + med main bolt and key + med cooper s dampener, pulley and bolt

carb/plenum
HIF 44 metro turbo needs a kit but all there

turbo
GT1752 or GT1548 or GT2052(3)

nice front mount charge cooler along with a rad undecided on placement and specifics but will be front mounted for both

few other bits and bobs cant thing of then now ohh KAD quick shifter.. lol umm yeah have a look now and then its been solw and shall be slow as cash is tight i know a turbo build is always more than pictured ehh just takes longer that's all.. im young no kids all i want is to go fast then again its more about getting there and back in a time frame for me than top speed

some pics of the 1098 after 3 years spent over reeving it till it screamed change gear.. o well


also built my self a decent work bench resonantly with some lights and power outlets the bench is on caster wheels and has a 15A plug in lead so its mobile i was a tat disappointed when the new parts washer did not fit under the bench tho.. lol old dishwasher.. if i get time ill try shoe horn it in cut some not so necessary bit off


:updated:

Edited by Turbo This.. on 14th Apr, 2017.

Sorry mate, this maybe a dumb question, and maybe I did not read the thread properly.

Are your pistons forged? As I am looking to do a similar set-up but with a NA 1330cc engine with +60 pistons with a turbo head.

My question is will this work?

Cheers

Bobby

The MAHLE pistons are cast, perfectly good for the proposed spec.

Looks good. The only things I'd change is not fitting the oil cooling jets as the conrods already do a good enough job of squirting the underside of the pistons.

Also, I'd seriously consider changing the FD. a 3.7 will result in lots of wheel spin. A 3.44 minimum, but better still a 3.1.

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

www.twin-turbo.co.uk

hi mate i plan to use the mini sport ones http://www.minisport.com.au/prod26.htm i be leave they are cast and should do me up to about 100hp but only for a short time if more power is made i cant say if the 1275 alt is any good or not as ive never used them mate maby someone else can help?

thanks wil bet me to it and with a better answer haha = )

so you think i can do with out the cooling jets using the proposed pistons and a windage tray? i didnt mention the tray ops.. oh yeah and if i can id like to use a 123 dissy as i have one and realy just want to get it going for now as i plan to pull it after 6-12 months for upgrades so if the 123 will do till then thats grate

I've never used jets on my 998s, the holes in the conrods do a perfect job.

As for the Dizzy. Aldon automotive are just about to launch a mappable dizzy, which may be more suitable. i plan to put one on my next project. http://www.aldonauto.co.uk/shop/default.asp? they're still not on his site, but I spoke to them a month ago and he said end of October.

Does the 123 have turbo maps?

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

www.twin-turbo.co.uk

Save money on the jets and get the crank lightened and heat-treated.

PH2 is a bit radical for a small bore. Try the 274 instead. It's just that little less on duration but good lift and high LCA.

How about the Calver ST 1098 pistons, no slots?

Gt1752 over the T3 anyday.

Get the rods peened.

No need for dry deck.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."

ok i shall forget the cooling jets..
the 123 has a metro map or two i will look tonight to see what the curve is if its crap ill jump straight to mega squirt i think and plan for future efi aswell as COP =)
paual ill have a look into your suggestions tonight as im suopst to be driving to work right now rather than on TMF lol

the in advance on the 123 I have is 28 deg, you could fudge it a bit by retading it by hand and selecting another curve to advance the midrange a bit, it'll end up pretty retarded at idle though.
would get you up and running...

your build would benefit from mapped ignition.

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!

i like the idea of those programmable dizzys esp for cars that need to keep a more original appearance. I know they have been around for other cars for a while. Ideally with your project programmable ign is the way to go so you can get the best from it. To get you started though you could do various things you can run a locked dizzy so it dosen't advance at all which dose work but not ideal. Personally i would forget the 4bolt main fit a strap if you like and spend the money on the ecu like you say its there for future improvements.

My small bore turbo project http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=473901

IMO, ditch the windage tray, this will help massively to cool the pistons, if not you will be in a world of hurt very quickley! With those pistons

ok so im home thank fook.. real bad day at work should have stayed home kind of thing haha i slipped while climbing in the roof and put a foot throw the plaster board roof so the customer was pisst off of course so then im like well now i have to fix it so im pisst having to pay a plaster and painter to fit it o well..

hmm
ok im going to scrap the cooling jets idea and the 4 bolt main as i have a strap anyway so shall have the fitted ill also go with the 274 cam vs PH2
now i look at the Calver ST 1098 +60 pistons i think i should change to them i have already got the MAHLE ones is it worth swapping?
t3 vs Gt1752 is it worth $1200 ausie bucks what would i gain a larger spread of boost what are we talking boost from 1500 rpm?
i shall have the rods pened rather than polish them all id be there all week doing 4 rods lol a practice rod took about 4 hours easy to mod and polish
how dose the ing curve work with a turbo? i know with n/a you need to advance to counter act the air speed so peak burn is when the valve is closed vs burning in the headers.. im assuming a turbo needs to retard as boost comes in to fight off pre det?
im thinking i should skip all the midle stuff and jump in the deep end go nuts EFI COP mappable ing Gt1752 or a bb hydbrid like ben but the cash is tight witch is not really a problem but i want to drive it again im having withdrawals lol 4-5 months with out the mini is takeing its toll
could i get away with the 123 by doing something like joe said ?

the 123 disy the settings are


500-1000rpm 2000rpm 5000rpm
0 10 14.5 28
1 10 16.7 28
2 10 18.4 28
3 10 20.2 28

4 10 16.3 30
5 10 17.6 30
6 10 19.4 30
7 10 12.1 30

8 10 16.2 32
9 10 18.1 32
A 10 20.3 32
B 10 22.9 32

A T3 will be wank on a small bore engine. Won't make any boost until really high revs.

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=378431

so with the tray i need jets but with out the tray i dont need jets?
how dose it weigh up i think the tray is a good idea to remove extra/un evan oil spray and the jets to replace the not so equal spray ie the piston at one side witch isn't under the gear set not getting much oil and all for pistons shelled from gear set spray with supplementary jets to deliver equal oil id think the tray and jets is the best way to have equal and controlled cooling? but hell this is my first turbo mini and you guys do know your stuff so chances are your right im wrong.. maybe i'm being ridiculous haha

so with a t3 im looking at st least 4k before boost then say 5k @ 1 bar? admittedly i did drive the N/A car at or above 3.5k most of the time on the road lol hmm but yes probably poo under 4k whats the 274 cam like below 4k? anyone have experience?

as for the cam i went on kents web site and found MD274 and MD274SP witch where your referring to Paul

Camshaft / Camshaft / MD274
Part No. Part Type Description
MD274 Camshaft Sports Injection
Applications Sports Injection
Power Band 1000-6000
Cam Lift(mm) 7.23mm Inlet / 7.13mm Exhaust
Valve Lift(mm) 8.85mm Inlet / 8.71mm Exhaust
Duration 284 Deg Inlet/ 274 Deg Exhaust
Timing 12/56 69/25
Full Lift Inlet 112 Deg ATDC
VC (mm) 0.40mm Inlet/Exhaust
LTDC 0.58mm Inlet
Retainer Material Steel
Pulley Material Steel
VSType Double
VSInstalled Height 36.0mm
VSNomSolid Height 19.0mm
VSNominal ID 16.0mm
VSDiameter 29.2mm
BHP Gain N/A
LinkRefAddInfo N/A



Part No. Part Type Description
MD274SP Camshaft High Torque
Applications High Torque
Power Band 1500 - 6500
Cam Lift(mm) 7.23mm Inlet/ 7.13mm Exhaust
Valve Lift(mm) 8.85mm Inlet / 8.71mm Exhaust
Duration 248 Deg Inlet/ 274 Deg Exhaust
Timing 16/52 71/29
Full Lift Inlet 108 Deg ATDC
VC (mm) 0.40mm Inlet/Exhaust
LTDC 0.89mm Inlet
Retainer Material Steel
Pulley Material Steel
VSType Single
VSInstalled Height 36.0mm
VSNomSolid Height 23.0mm
VSNominal ID 21.6mm
VSDiameter 29.0mm
BHP Gain N/A
LinkRefAddInfo N/A

Not the SP. It's cut on a 108/106 LCA whilst the standard 274 is on 112 LCA.

I've ran the 274 in my 998 turbo. Good off boost torque, although that may be due to the induction system.

Can you get a GT1548 any cheaper? That would be a better proposition for 1150cc.

You've specced up a engine that will breathe and rev well. You don't want to strangle it with a turbo that will give boost from low rpm, do you?

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."

Josh, cams are cams i wont have a huge discussion over them, just as a reference Benjamin (in Sydney, yes he is on here) made 160hp, similar specs with a modded t25(ithink?) and using a Graham Russell turbo specific cam (RE83T)
The GT17 isnt hard to come across, and neither are the rebuild kits, i got mine for 150, should be fine, i bought a rebuild kit for $80 anyways...

What manifold do you plan on using? were you going for the T3 cause you had one lying around or....?

What compression ratio do you calculate by the way?

“A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.” - Jeremy Clarkson

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."

Poor choice of words on my behalf, was just not wanting to start another which cam is better debate... but yes as Paul mentioned, buying a turbo specific cam is money very well spent... have you had a chat to Matt Reed yet Josh?
He's not far from you :)

“A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.” - Jeremy Clarkson

matt no mate not yet i be leave he is near the gateway? im way out bush so im not often out that way that said i dont need to stand next to him to talk.. so is he on this forum?

paul i shall use the 274 as you sagest

also i think for now i will use the t3 and 123 to get me going so i can see what all this turbo talk is about that said im not expecting my right foot to make the world spin faster lol


i had a look see today quickly on egay and found i can get a Chinese gt1548 for about 600-700 think ill save my cash and find a second hand one like matt said

do do list:

buy hif44 and t3 kits i have cleaned both so ready for the kits
going to dump the tray and jets as recommended not necessary for my app
by a 90 degree drill for thrusts
pick up oil gally grub screw plugs and thrust brass fixings
drill 11 studs

things for the shop to do:

rods: check them over for straightness, stroke length, size, cranks, anything else they should check?
turn big ends down, radius smalls, balance end to end and pen them

crank: check it over for straightness, stroke length, size, cranks, anything else they should check?
balanced, toughened nitro-ed?, don't think i should bother to counter weight it or knife edge? is it worth cross drilling promote oil flow?

block: check for cracks, pressure test, check main line, surface it, fit strap by the way the bolts with 6 lines good or bad? shall have a look see but im sure someone knows straight up

other: balance rotating parts

Edited by Turbo This.. on 4th Nov, 2012.

ok so this morning i made a trip into the shop on my way back home i got thinking on what ive got planed and think its best to find some better pistons rather than put some "ok ish" ones in and change them later ill get some Calver ST 1098 0.060" pistons that way when i want more power all i do is get a
GT1548 or Gt1752 a good inter-cooler and mega jolt or what ever any way point is i think its best to do the internal stuff to work for today and also tomorrow with out having to pull it down well if all goes to plan

hey guys just an updated

i have decided to dump the T3 and go for a modern turbo (1752 or 1548) and go for mappable ignition i will wait till February when i can legally drive the turbo mini.. so i can have an inter cooler and much better set up all round so i need to pull my finger out and drop some cash

the shop called with bad news this arvo they said my crank has a huge crack in it buga.. i asked him show me it when i drop the replacement one off he said no prob

good news is i have a 1098 crank down at mums place so ill have it sent up but the only problem is the key way is fooked so do i need the key way there at all? is the bolt good enough to hold the pulley and dampener on? maby lock tight? or should i have the key fixed up?

anyway the shop is flat stick at present so things are moving slow.. so ill get a move on the peeping the shell/body while i wait

i was looking at MS and stuff.. im after some help regarding selecting parts and so on.. maby paul can help? id like to plan for future use like staged efi but for not i will use the hif44 (as i don't have the tooling to make injector bosses and rails)

hear is what im thinking
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/megasqu...bled-p-435.html
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/ign1fd-...coil-p-428.html
Innovate Standalone Gauge Kit w LC-1 & G5 Analog Gauge - 3822

i think the first qustion in can i get a build it your self kit for the ecu? other wise im up for $645 AUD just on the ecu
second what sensors will be best for the crank angle and cam sensor im thinking of using this one for both
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/hall-ef...nsor-p-489.html

i shall get two wide bands for proper readings inner and outer i cant rember who it was that made a manifold with thos sampling chambers but im looking at doing that

also as im in Queensland im looking at doing a nice front mount radiator and charge cooler ether side by side or one top one bottom ether way it should fit in the clubby

thanks guys appreciate the input good bad or whatever lol