My Project 84 Mayfair - GT1752 - now indoors and back underway
Turbo Mini Forums

Thought it was about time i started my own thread!

I am reasonably new to TM but have had my little brown number for 3 years or so, and getting pritty tired of the amazing power of the bog standard 998.

So i thought it was time tho build a nice nippy 1275 maybe aim for 100 bananas or so, then it started getting a bit out of hand.

I headed over to BenRoss's place for the day, and had a blast in his monster! It seams the turbo bug is pritty infectious hu? and hear we are building what's turning out to be a top spec turbo lump. Even though it seams to be taking a while.

So onto the spec so far...

Box.
Mini spares clubman straight cut gear set, Xpin diff, central oil pick up, all new bearings and layshaft and mini spares straight cut roller drops. built by me

Block.
1293cc, 10cc omega cast pistons, piper phase 2 the superior crank (could you remind me of the number steve?), ARP rod bolts, lightened duplex timing gear. build by Benross

Head.
A super doper Benross turbo head, 29-26.5cc chambers, 36mm in 30mm out bronze valve guides sexy looking ports, double valve springs and rece valves.

Clutch.
Ultra light fly,double grey diaphram ap race plate all balanced up nicely.

Spent the day with Steve AKA Benross on sunday, i tuck up my box and drop gears, so we got the lot build up. Big thanks to you Steve, you have being a big big help getting me this far, i would advise any one to go to Steve for a head or a short block as i did top bloke! and if you go on a Sunday you may be in for a beautiful sunday roast!!

Any way enough tallk time for some picks, i will get some shots of my car and some better ones of the head asap.....

http://media.ebaumsworld.com/mediaFiles/pi...6/80824772.jpeg

http://media.ebaumsworld.com/mediaFiles/pi...6/80824773.jpeg

http://media.ebaumsworld.com/mediaFiles/pi...6/80824774.jpeg

http://media.ebaumsworld.com/mediaFiles/pi...6/80824775.jpeg

Not to sure on adding picks yet if this doesn't work any pointers will be appreciated.

This is my first engine build/decent project as i am only 20 any input will be much appreciated, pritty much anything i have not mentioned i have not decided on yet.

Cant wate to get burning some rubber!

Edited by maccamcvey on 10th Apr, 2012.

Sounds mint mate

to post pics type [img ] (but without the space

then paste the link like you have above in right after

the immediately after the link type [/img ]

again without the space, then it should come up like:




to see what i mean, just go to quote my post and the text will show

good luck with the build!

Edited by joeybaby83 on 23rd Nov, 2009.

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

Thanks Joe

I like your sig maccam. Did you pick it up off Steve by any chance?

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.

That's funny. I've heard that once or twice myself rescently! I also can't fault Steve's work. He's a top bloke.

EDIT: Are all those tissues to keep the engine clean or have you being getting excited

Edited by apbellamy on 24th Nov, 2009.

BTW the crank is CAM6581

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.

Yea stole my sig of steve it came out a few times on Sunday and think its an apt motto for this project as its probably going to take a while.

and yea i got home sunday and it all got a bit messy in the garage when it sank in what i had sitting on my bench!

a pleasure james, you just need a few more bits in the near future and your away

the head has 28cc in there

Ok I found this relic on page 7! Time for a wee update.

I haven't done allot of actual work just hoarding parts. I have the next fore days off so work will commence.

My daily is now off the road and a 1275 spi mayfair is on its way to replace it for the meantime, its a tad rough around the edges but £1300 with 12mths MOT cant be to bad?

My first choice bodywork wise is what would you recommend for the best rust proofing paint/underbody sealing? I was thinking a good slap of bog standard Hammerite then a layer of there underbody sealant. should this fend off a good 5 or 10 british winters? Or should i start with a layer of anti rust primer?

Work will commence tomorrow so some more snaps to follow.

Hammerite?! Nooooooo Awful stuff

Sproc I diden't mention this is for the underbody and engine bay only! "Awful stuff" still stand? and why?
Cheers

i have used hamerite all over my floorpan, engine bay boot floor, inside the car, inside the boot, subframes.

i have found the yellow stuff to be crap
but the black smooth to be ok stood the time, a twat to get off though
interested in your thoughts about it sprock

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

My entire car is painted in Hammerite!

Decent bit of work done today sorry about the poor picture quality! Any more advise on underbody/engine bay paint? Thanks











also, the front end is in pretty good nic do you think i should chop it out for a flip front? it is reasonably old (1984) so i feel i should keep the body original within reason.

Cheers

projects looking ace mate,

we used rustoleum on the underneath and arches when rebuilding my friends mini .. that was a year ago and hasn't budged yet.

my vote is keep the steel front if its in good condition

2012 Avon class c 2nd place 13.8 @98mph

Shell fully stripped today, only bad bits are drivers A panel area, it has had a couple of repairs in the past but obvious not good enough. Also some rust in the boot, but only the grand scale off things it is in very good nic. More digging tomorrow so I may find some more yet...









Cheers

Engine's looking tidy and sounds like a nice spec. Yeah, in my experience the more you look for rust the more you'll find.

1275 N/A Sprite, 998 T2 Turbo Mayfair
1275 EFi Turbo

Chopped out pretty much all off the rust from the front end today, and went to buy some new panels,

New wing
scuttle repair
gusset
A panel
Bulkhead/A Post Repair Panel
Door Step repair
outer sill
floor pan

long list for a relatively small amount off rust

It is so demoralizing chopping out rust, sweeping it up then spending a shit load of money time and effort replacing it. Will be well worth it in the long run though. I counted at least 8 different patches on the drivers foot well area! just wish somebody did it properly in the past!

spent the rest off the day trying to teach myself how to weld, I have used up the dregs of a disposable bottle. I rang my local BOC dealer and was quoted £113 all in for a 10L full bottle, inc £40 deposit, then £25 a refill. Or £73 for a 5L, £15 per refill. how long do you think 5L would last? (5% CO2 1% O2 and the rest argon)

Any one fancy teaching me to weld? body work is my main weakness (along with spelling) and i am worried i am getting in a bit over my head

If you want to travel to Rotherham Saturday morning I will show you how to do some welding.

Thanks for the offer Tom very much appreciated but i work shifts and i am working all weekend not off until mid next week now.
Thanks again.

I always wanted a brown Mini, but my mate refused to paint it for me so it ended up blue!

I wasn't so keen on the brown when a got it but it has grown on me big time, and very tempted to keep it the same color ether that or a greyie blue i want to keep a retro/sleeper look.

Picked up my new daily today 1996 mayfair SPI reasnably tidy bit of rust hear and there worst it the passengers door, also an unusual patch under the rear light, I have never come across it bad there before.

The main concern is on 'emergency starts' (yes stolen from you ap') it will crunch into second and down shifting/engine braking from 3rd to 2nd it will crunch unless you are very gentle. The other think i hope is the cause (but i am doubtful) when you depress the clutch it makes a defiant rumble/worn bearing noise. Witch i assume is the release bearing.

Second concern is the flue pump makes a bit off a racket, this is the first time i have driven an SPI so not sure if this is normal or not?

Third one is the driving position the seat and the pedals feel correct but the wheel seams off to the left, i have had a good look underneath the bracket and some on had tried to drop the wheel a bit with some thick washers but looks like it is using the original holes, any thoughts?

Also a quick pic of how the other one is looking.

Cheers

I should really get my real camera out and stop using my phone but cba!

bit of an update....













Please don't mock my shit welding i am getting better.

its not an over sill btw and i will drill big drainage holes soon.

i mainly need some advice on the boot. both corners of the floor are fucked, the valance seems ok, but the offside closing panel is fucked, near-side is sound.

So when repairing the floor should i peal the seam apart and slot the repair between the 2 seams?
Or just make a bit of a lip around the edge and just fold it down and weld to the valance.
Or new valance and boot floor?
What would you do...?

wile i am at it should i tub the arches or not? it is a road car so cant have it too slammed.

also i have a beam axle with the offset gaz shocks, what strengthening do i need if any? i have had a quick search but may just be blind. Has this being covered?