Everything to know about the 'small' Japanese alternators
Turbo Mini Forums

These alternators are commonly found on small cars like the suzuki swift, Diahatsu Charade, and some 'industrial' equipment like the micro diggers and some site generators. Be wary of the latter two however, as these are usually only a 25 amp output.

All the ones you'll find are vitually all made by Nippon Denso. Seemingly identical ones are available from Demon Tweeks - but at a price!!!

Two pulley types are often found - a plain vee belt, and a four (I think) row multi-vee belt. If yours has the multi-Vee, you can buy new (single) vee pulleys from Demon Tweeks - for around ?20 i recall - so it's worth looking for the right pulley type!

If you do need to change the pulley, you need an air-gun. If you don't have one, speak to a garage... The nut will not come off with a breaker bar - as it's so difficult to hold the pulley itself.

Finally, if you spy a swift in a breakers yard, and fancy the alternator - bank on around 15-20 minutes to remove it!
You also need to have a 12mm spanner and socket with you. A 12mm ratchet spanner will make very quick work of it however!
You need to remove all the air filter assy, throttle cables, brake servo (just loosen the unions, and undo the master cyl from the servo (these are 12mm aswell!) and plastic cover around the alternator. Then get under the alternator and undo the one, or two, bottom nuts (depending on type). If the two bolt type, the bolts are captive, and once the nut is undone, the bolt can be slid out. Single type is usually one long bolt and plain nut - again 12mm heads
Then undo the top bolts, and lift it out!

FYI - if you are thinking about one of these, the body of the swift ones is around 100mm (4") diameter - obviously the lugs stick out further! The industrial ones are approx 80mm dia - and not suitable for a road car, although probably fine in a racer!

Wiring the alternators in is easy - just follow this link!
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/iain/up/alternator.jpg

Edited by TurboDave16V on 31st Jul, 2016.

Just to confirm, the ignition light setup is the same as the mini, its through a switched live?

Be able to get mine on now!!

Also what belt is required? Obviously needs to be shorter but any off the shelf one to make my life easy

The belts are always part-numbered by length so the easiest way to do things like this is to mount the alt up, and then cut up an old (longer) belt to suit and then measure the length of it in mm, then go down you local factors and look in their catalogue for available lengths.

Ahh i see, thanks

do you have pic's of the mountings as the honda powered rover 216 has a small ND altenator with the same wireing as the second pic

Edited by billydude on 15th Nov, 2004.

The alternator you're talking about is around 125mm dia - ie larger than these ones... It is almost as large as a Lucas Alternator; barely worth the hassle of fitting...

Oh I see
just a thought :)

Hi dave, do you have any info on the industrial ones that are 80 mm in dia? I cant seem to find any?

WWW.FORCE-RACING.CO.UK PLEASE CLICK HERE

I have a small bodied one off a 3 cyclinder kubota engine if any one is interested? Its not got a pulley though! didnt like the way it mounted compared to the one off a suzuki swift.

On 15th Nov, 2004 TurboDave said:


Wiring the alternators in is easy - just follow this link!
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/iain/up/alternator.jpg

Edited by Rob H on 5th May, 2008.

nice one!

Daft question but do you need to connect B? as I thought the only outputs on the stock one were to the starter (and then to battery and every thing live on the car) and to the dash light.

yeah it energise the windings

http://www.sbdev.co.uk/Info_sheets/Alterna...nstructions.htm

i am confused, which is the correct diagram, at the moment i have it wired as iain's diagram

Yes it is confusing (see my other post) as mini's had both wires to the alterantor from the same source, ie from the same terminal on the solenoid.

Wire it as per mini13 diagram. Thats how I have mine.

EDIT: My matiz alternator only needed the charge light signal and not the extra 12V switched live to get it running though!

Edited by matty on 27th May, 2008.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fusion-Fabri..._homepage_panel

www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

I still do not have a battery light, i have checked the bulbs, still nothing, any ideas

some more info lads,

Edited by Joe C on 17th Jul, 2008.

Doh!!!!

after spending much time searching the net for the conections for the 3 pin (type 4) denso alternator, i then notice its actually marked on the bloody thing!!

I have had mine on for some time, rather than having it close to the engine and using a smaller fan belt, i am using my original belt.
Where the alternator bolts to the water pump this has snapped right through, so need a new water pump. Has anyone got any pics of ones fitted or any guidance to how to fit these close to the engine and the fan bet used. Thanks

Right oh.

Just fitted one of these to my Metro.

Going by the Brise info it is a type3. Just had to run an extra wire from the fuse box to the "IG" connector and fit a new lug for the main out put.

I had to mill off around 2mm from the alternator body to alight the belt and extend the mini/metro bottom adjusting bracket.

A 825mm fan belt that I had in stock did the job(but cheers Paul S, top bloke)
I now have a heakthy 13.5 volts on tickover and a working ignition/charge light.

Great thread, with all the right info.

950 grams saved!!

Well done TD and TM.

JF.

i had to do the same as jon, about 2mm off the inside of the lug to bring it over toward the engine

http://www.putfile.com/pic/3457577/?action=zoom

however, this lines up the pulleys for standard v belt, ive now gone over to the toothed belt drive, likemini 13, and as you have to mod the alt drive pulley from minispares to get it to fit the nippon, you can just machine the difference into the pulley rather than the mount

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"