Slo998 build, 7 port turbo 998 now tuned (Very pic heavy)
Turbo Mini Forums

Hi new to posting on this site but have been reading and searching for some time now.

I thought it would be a good time to share the specs for the new 998 I’m building as I’m in the process of getting it machined and it’s not together yet, so things can still be changed.

Bit of background info I’m in Australia and have been using one of Ben Affords (92 on www.ausmini.com) SC12 supercharger kits for about two years on a pretty standard A/A+ mixed engine. In the last stages it has been running a wet manifold injection setup injecting before the blower, with full squeal coil per cylinder Ignition. But as we all chase more and more power I thought it was time to build a properly prepped engine.

The specs so far are:
A+ 12g940 head – With Swiftune 21-4N stainless 36mm in and 30mm EX , Swiftune road springs and standard A+ retainers, Bronze valve guide set on Inlet and K-lined EX guides. And a heap of port and chamber work.
Rockers - I’m still not sure, I’m thinking the pressed steel type with the seams welded and offset bushed?
Camshaft – SW5 at this stage I had a SW10 in the last motor but think the SW5 is better suited. With Swiftune Alloy Duplex vernier timing gear set.
Block – A series (not A+) bored to 100” with centre main strap, pocketed to sued head and 11 stud conversion.
Internals – non A+ crank: Wedged, bladed, nitrated, polished, on 10/10 balanced.
Non A+ Con Rods lighted, polished, shot penned and balanced.
Pistons - Hypatec and Hastings Ring 100” (flat top will probably need dishing though to get around 8.5 CR)
Flywheel - MED Ultra light steel billet flywheel and back plate, gray dot Clutch covers, AP Bonded clutch plate, bolt set locating washer, and harmonic balancer bolt.
Gearbox – Is what I’m running now, fully rebuilt A+ box with an ATB diff from Swiftune.
Induction – An Eaton M45 off a Bini front mounted blowing through an intercooler then a metro turbo plenum and carbie. Running between 12-14 PSI. I know they are getting past the peak at that but a lot of the Bini boys are running 15PSI and as this will be intercooled, I think it will work nice.
Ignition – What it is already running, a Haltech E8 ECU with full squeal coil per cylinder, with a modified cam angel sensor. (As the last motor was met manifold injected)

Hoping for around 120 ish bananas ATW.
All of this stuff I already have so I don’t want to change much but am willing to hear all your opinions and change things.

The block is a 998 block hot tanked, new cam bearings, pocketed to take a 12g940 head, .100" over size, centre main strap and will be 11 studded. It had No 4 bore sleeved as in a previous life it lunched a piston and surprisingly went unnoticed and still ran fine and even raced several times in improved production as it was.


The crank has been wedged, winged away from the conrods, ground .010".010" and nitrated.


Conrods have been polished, shot peened, big ends resized, new little end bushes, ARP bolts and check for straightness.


Timing gear is from Swiftune and is their Alloy Duplex vernier timing gear set.

Flywheel is an MED ultra-light steel flywheel assembly with a AP Bonded clutch plate and a Grey dot diaphragm.


Just thort i would add some pics, I will try to add some of the M45 blowers mounted to the motor as soon as i can.
Thanks in advance Nathan.

Edited by Slo998 on 22nd May, 2013.

Hi Nathan

I think I've seen you're car on Ausminis.

I'm build an SC12ed 1275 over here in the UK. You're spec sounds good to me (not that I'm an expert)

Here are a couple of crappy phone pics of the Bini blower mounted in the front of my Clubby they will not be the final brackets tho. I’m hoping to get the motor together over the Easter break so ill take some more pics then.





Thanks Nathan.

Looks like a good spec engine wise, very well thought out.

But is the SC12 the limiting factor in your power? I'd hve thought that it might be better suited to your set-up than an M45.

I'd also say that running the M45 at 15psi is a little out of its efficiency range.

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

www.twin-turbo.co.uk

The way I looked at it is that on Binis they run 15PSI some even 16 PSI with the M45 and still copes and that has to flow a lot more air on the bigger motor.

I’m planning on water injection pointing into the inlet of the blower then it all go throw the intercooler.

I would think that the M45 can produce heaps more power then I’m after and should be more efficient then SC12?

Nathan.

If you look at the M45 map 15psi is barely on it, and at best you'll be running 55% efficiency. Now if I had a turbo that was 55% efficient it'd be straight in the bin. even at a modest 10 psi it's only 60% efficient.

Unfortunately I can find no maps of the SC12 to compare.

Edit: look at the new R410 TVS from eaton, at 10psi it upto 72% efficient. Now this might get you to 120 ATW!http://www.eaton.com/ecm/groups/public/@pub/@eaton/@per/documents/content/ct_127896.gif

Edited by wil_h on 6th Apr, 2009.

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

www.twin-turbo.co.uk

I do hear what you are saying, and I have looked at them as well. At least with the water going in there it helps them seal a bit better (as I’m sure you know) so will help a bit. On the Binis running around where I live they are still making more power by upping there boost to 16Psi from say 12 or so, after that it seems to be a dead end.

Nathan.

I think the water injected and evaporated in the supercharger would condense in the intercooler and fill it up.
Same for the carb needs to be blow through.

im with hario on this one, short trials on a mates, came to this conclusion. so we didnt go to far into it!

For the time being I will keep the M45 I do hear what you are all saying and yes I know there are more efficient chargers out that would probly make more power at the same boost. But there has not been too many blow throw setup I’ve found so I think it would be good to see what happens if nothing else, and at the end of the day it can always be changed later on.

And no the motor is far from slapped this together

Re the water injected I know of a couple of guys doing this, some road some race, turbo and blowers and none of them seem to have an issue with it. a few things to remember with it is that it’s not like having a hose or jet of water, it is a very fine mist like fog and only about 70-100ml per min. I think a lot of problems come with how it is controlled, mine will be throw the Haltech E8 ECU that is doing my squeal coil per cylinder and was running injection. So it only sprays when: the air temp, boost and rpm is at or above a set point so there will always be air flow to push it throw.

Nathan.

To show some of the back gourd to this new build I thort id show some pics of the old SC12 set up. Here is a link to it on http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=40966 if you want to look as it progressed.


"Here are some photos of bits and pieces for the build.

Engine bay with throttle body, injection manifold, supercharger, cam angle sensor and coils fitted (coil per cylinder). A+ 998 head with mild porting.




The 12G940 head, with the new valves, two (double) valve springs, retainer and collet. Bronze guides like the one shown have been installed for the inlet valves, while the exhaust guides were k-lined. The head has since been worked a lot more.


Comparison of new and old valves. 21-4N stainless steel from Swiftune. Note the narrowed stem near the head of the intake valve.


Throttle body from 2.0L JE camira, with TPS and IAC.


"

Some hose tail 515CC injectors



I made the fuel rail just needed the presure regulator boss welded on and mounted back to the manifold and it can be plumbed in





After i did get it welded like it sat in the secon pic it leaked from the weld, we tried rewelding it but since it was cheap cast ally so the porosity of it ment that we had to chase the leak.

So a new one was made from extruded alloy and billet ally ends. I was more then happy with the result but as always its the little unforseen thing that take the most time.




A few things got changed around the place, a 4 core radiator went in and the mechanical fan got taken off, the super charger pulley was changed for its little brother to limit the boost to around 7pis (for the first lot of turning to make it a it a bit safer as it was making 5psi free revving in neutral and 10 psi by 1500-1800rpm and 12psi beyond that :lol: ), heat rapped the LCBs and a lot of tiding up of the whole car. Still a LONG way off tidy but better. :oops: Got some yummy new shoes for her as well.




The injection worked but was a bit shit down low, but very good and responsive when it was revving. We ended up putting this down to the injector manifold was just too big and not having the air speed. If left idling to long it would start to fill up that manifold with fuel but still have an AFR of 13 ish until it overflowed. So it wasn’t atomising and getting in to the air flow well enough. As a result of that when you put your foot down after it would suck it all in and flood.

It was very hard to tune one reason being the injectors were so far away and had to find its way throw the blower is was hard to get the accelerator pumps in the ECU to work predicably so there were flat spots some time we just couldn’t tune out of it.

The ignition side of things worked very well with a modified Toyota 3SGE cam angle sensor and to give crank and cam angle so it could fire one coil at a time.

Hope you find some of this stuff useful thanks Nathan.

you're obviously spending the cash for extreme performance and you have the spacious engine bay of a clubby, so i dont understand why you dont go intercooled turbo?

but anyway i wish you all the best with it and i wanna see it in action

Aussie Supercharged 1360 Clubby

Interesting looking dizzy / cam position sensor, what ECU are you running?

I am now going down the turbo path with the new plane is to run a hybrid Garrett dual roller ball bearing turbo.

The core is from GT25R Family (part no.446179-12)
R32 GTR EX housing HPC coated
Comp cover AR.42
Rear housing AR.48
FR wheel 46.48mm
EX wheel 41.7mm
T25 EX flang

Here are some picys to look at.





The ports and chambers in the 12G940 Head what do you think?




Thanks Nathan. :)

ooh nice :)

That mini is determined to Kill me!!!!

That turbo is going to be intresting :-

I think it is time to show what has been happening over the last couple of months. There was a ‘bit’ of a hold up when the engine shop I had doing the work (a supposed good name place in Aus) had a “laps in concentration” while enlarging the pockets in the block for the 1275 head. The block already had pockets in it, and this was their way of trying to get my CR down, as they “took the chambers as big as you could safely go”, 22.8cc what a joke So they took the pockets all the way to the 1275 head gasket line



When I saw it I wasn’t overly happy and had said to them at the start that if they didn’t think they could get them to 27-28cc I could sent it away to be done, but they said no probs we have done lots of mini stuff in the past. I then proposed a few problems I could see to them;

How do you get the rings in as they will pop out in to the pocket as soon as you tap the piston down? The next was the square edge of the piston would now be in the combustion chamber and would create a hot spot and or melt.

The solution they had for the first problem was to make a steeped, tapered ring compressor so it locates in to the block and is all smooth down the bore. So that was fine (which they did make one and it did work). The next was the sharp edge of the piston they suggested to lath to a gentle radios, again a fine solution to a problem that shouldn’t have been done in the first place.

I still wasn’t convinced or overly happy and thought I would ask a few people what they thought of the idea, pretty much all pointed to it being bad. After a miscommunication from me saying stop all work until further notice to the front desk and the front desk not telling the work shop, they had make the tool to get the rings in and had lathed my pistons.



So to cut an even longer story short I asked for them to redo a new block as that was not what I wanted, asked for or thought would be acceptable on a motor like this and a new set of pistons as that seemed silly having them like that. They said it would be fine and were/still more than happy with it but as it’s going to be very stressed to say the least, they came to the party pretty much. And did a new block up that I supplied, so they had to rehot tank it, bore it, redo the centre main strap, extra head studs, cam bearings, re blue print it all plus all the normal rebuild things.

All this takes time and they did not rush it at all, so 4 weeks later I got a redone block back. When we were putting it together (an extremely big thanks to the member that helped me out with it all in AUS) he found a few problems; one of the cam bearings was in backwards, the rear 11th stud that the engine shop had drilled and taped was not square to the block deck so much so the headgasket would not fit on with the stud in and really countless other little things down to tapping the temp sender in to the head as the late injected A+ head don’t have it drilled, they put the tapper tap in too deep so the sender doesn’t pull up and seal...

We finally got it all finished and the new motor is now together, in the car and running.

Sneky peaky tho





Sorry about the long post Nathan.

Edited by Slo998 on 6th Aug, 2009.

Now thats a tale of woe dedication and Perseverance

Own the day

In case anyone wants to know about the specs of my turbo motor are as there seems to be lots wanting ideas of what to do

The specs in the end are:

Head – A+ 12g940 with Swiftune 21-4N stainless 36mm in and 30mm EX , Swiftune road springs and standard A+ retainers, Bronze valve guide set on Inlet and K-lined EX guides, a heap of port work (127.8 CFM on the inlets and 91 CFM on the EX at 0.400” lift) and a little chamber work and its all held on with the ARP 11 stud kit.

Rockers – Minisport UK 1.3 roller tip on GR’s recommendation.

Camshaft – ATM SW10 for the run-in but will be a RE13T ground from a brand new blank cam, that is cross drilled. With Swiftune Alloy Duplex vernier timing gear set.

Block – Bored to 80” oversize with centre main strap, pocketed to sued head and 11 stud conversion. The Capacity now is 1061.8cc.

Crank – Wedged, bladed, nitrated, and polished, on 10/10 balanced.

Con Rod – Polished, shot penned and balanced with ARP bolts.

Pistons – 80” Over Hypatec with GR’s ring set, Teflon buttons to replace cir-clips and a 4.08cc dish in the top to get the CR down.

Flywheel, clutch - MED Ultra light steel billet flywheel and back plate, gray dot Clutch covers, AP Bonded clutch plate, bolt set locating washer, Timken 3W 5/8 thrust bearing, new Genuine clutch lever arm and new bearing plunger.

Harmonic balancer – Romac Gold Series Steel inner and alloy outer with a Swiftune longer bolt.

Gearbox – A rebuilt A+ box with an ATB diff from Swiftune.

Drop gears – From Swiftune Straight cut with roller bearing idler, primary gear featuring bronze top hat bush and unique floating inner primary gear bush with retaining clip.

Ignition – A Haltech E8 ECU with full squeal coil per cylinder, with a modified cam angel sensor. (As the last motor was met manifold injected)

Induction – ATM a 40mm webber but will be a custom hybrid Garrett dual roller ball bearing turbo blowing through an intercooler then a metro turbo plenum and carbie. Running between 5-14 PSI depending what gear you are in. Gota love the Haltech, the boost per gear will be finetuned to eliminate as much wheel spin as we can.

Exhaust – ATM LCB extractors with 1.75” hotdog and twin DTM muffler at the back. With the turbo it has a custom turbo manifold and dump pipe by a member on here, and will be a 2” system with the DTM muffler modified to take a 2” pipe.

There are more little things here and there but I think that most of it.












Hope it helps Nathan.

Well I guess it's time for a update, it's been a long time coming! After having all sorts of problems with the Teflon buttons for the pistons melting and blocking the oil pick up and having the motor in and out the car more time then i care to think I had lost the love for it once I had fixed it all.. Knowing I would find the love I kept the mini but didn't touch it for a long time, even bought a new turn key toy in the mean time. A blue Evo X MR but as nice and stupidly fast it is it's no mini, wether that's a good or a bad thing I'm not sure lol

But anyway I stated playing with the mini again, it had been running well but had very bad clutch shudder, and I had decided that 5 port injection wouldn't give me the out come I was after. I had made a new injection set up and we had played with it on the Dyno but couldn't get the power and drivableity as good as the weber we pulled off.. So I decided a new head I would fix this and at the same time take my dished pistons out and put flat tops in the get the piston crown thickness and comp up.

The gear box has been something that has been in the back of my mind sine the start, so I decided to do it onece and hopefully not have to worry about it again!


Swiftune dog box and Swiftune flywheel to fix the clutch sudder :)



New pistons and bearing went in, piston size changed and comp increase and the new head rocked up!




It is all together and in the car, I started it for the first time on Sunday at an event in south Australia called minis at the mill, there was just over 100 minis there and seemed a fitting place to turn the key for the first time With the 7 port :)











It is running on E85, 85% ethonal and 15% unleaded fuel. It is really good stuff and is used in most motor sport down under now.

Still got lots of things to do and it will still be a while befor it's tuned and driving but it's getting there, and I'm sure it's going to be worth the wait.

This is the condensed version, ausmini has a bit more detail of things or I can put it on here if people want :) http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=40966

Thanks Nathan.

Very nice, good job mate :)

Great stuff. =)

Some of you Aussies have too much money! lol

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.