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Home > 998cc > Do you use harmonic damper on your 998 turbos?

hario

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I have spent the last few weeks worth of lunchtimes trying to fit a universal trigger wheel to a 1275 harmonic damper for MJ on my 998turbo,
However I only noticed the other day that 998s do not infact use any kind of damper, just a pressed steel crank pulley!
So.. What has everyone else done? If it is common practice to just fit the trigger wheel onto the end of the pulley with packing and a lengthened crank bolt, i will follow suit, avoiding dificulties such as attaching trigger wheel to fixed part of damper (not easy to adjust).
Let me know! It would save loads of hassle, I am nmot concerened with impoving fatigue life or smooth running, (std crank, not building a rev-monkey)
*happy* thanks in advance, hario.
PS. appologies for the rantage..


Vegard

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I use the 1275 damper, and throw the steel pulleys in the bin.

Edited by Vegard on 27th Dec, 2008.

On 13th Jul, 2012 Ben H said:
Mine gets in the way a bit, but only when it is up. If it is down it does not cause a problem.



Paul S

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Formerly Axel

Podland

Some Metro 998s have a damper pulley.

I'm using a Metro pulley machined for MJ/MS.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


GaryOS

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Formally spanner181187

Dublin, Ireland

I am using a Minispares Cooper S pulley modified to fit a trigger wheel on the inside. Then I just bolted a Cooper S damper to the pulley

On 12th Nov, 2009 Paul S said:

I think Gary OS has taken over my role as the forum smart arse *happy*


On 30th Apr, 2010 Rod S said:
Gary's description is best


Rod S

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I think the "late" 998s Metros only used the "damper" pulley to use up old stock of 1275 "A+" series parts.

ie, the damper part of it isn't needed at 998 - Vizard seems to suggest so.

Having said that, it's a much better pulley (if the rubber insert is OK), so I would use it, especially if you want to machine a trigger wheel into it's wide face or even just to fit a trigger wheel to it.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Tom Fenton
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On 27th Dec, 2008 Rod S said:
I think the "late" 998s Metros only used the "damper" pulley to use up old stock of 1275 "A+" series parts.



Not quite right, the 998 damper pulley is dimensionally different to the 1275 damper pulley.


On 29th Nov, 2016 madmk1 said:


On 28th Nov, 2016 Rob Gavin said:
I refuse to pay for anything else


Like fuel 😂😂


slater

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i dont think ive ever had a 998 without one!


Vegard

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On 27th Dec, 2008 Tom Fenton said:



On 27th Dec, 2008 Rod S said:
I think the "late" 998s Metros only used the "damper" pulley to use up old stock of 1275 "A+" series parts.



Not quite right, the 998 damper pulley is dimensionally different to the 1275 damper pulley.


You mean the diameter?

On 13th Jul, 2012 Ben H said:
Mine gets in the way a bit, but only when it is up. If it is down it does not cause a problem.



Rod S

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I have two different "sizes" of dampers, but the only dimension that is different is the "thickness" (hence weight).

Early 1275 ones were thicker than the "A+" ones.

But my own experience of late "A+" ones was that I found exactly the same one on the late 998 engines as the 1275.

Who can be sure ???

The way Leyland/Rover used to use up parts is hard to explain.... My '83 1275 MG Metro doner had solid front discs whereas my son's '84 998 City "E" doner had vented !!!!

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


hario

444 Posts
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Hmm..
Well i cant remember Visard's commandments but the book is primarily aimed at building naturally aspirated horsepower though revs. Whereas i plan to build an engine using a turbo to significantly increase the torque lower down and of course torque x revs = bananas.

So assuming the engine will have a limit of say 5-6k rpm's can i live without a crank damper? I rev the shit out of my standard 998 at the mo and its still alive, (35000 miles in 2 years )

I am having trouble affixing the trigger wheel using a method that allows for adjustment once installed to achieve the correct positioning relative to the sensor for accurate 90Degrees. yes i am a boyracer.


joeybaby83

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yes you could, although it will be beneficial to run with one

have you looked at the specialist components site? they do a bolt on kit to save all this pissing about

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"



hario

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Yeah man, i dont think ill use one tbh, as soon as the engines in ill start building the next one anyway!

I definately intend to shy away from spending money on one but maybe if the price is right.
Checking SpecialistComponents as we speak.

Must admit, not using one would make life loads easyer.
PS. anyone know how to get siezed lower arm pins out of lower arms? im thinking some kind of balljoint splitter shaped thin? Its really annoying being my daily, if ig et stuck i have to put it all back together again and think about the problem then have another go next weekend, anyone been there? lol


GaryOS

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Hario, it seems that you are planning on adjusting your ignition setup by moving the trigger wheel. Is the sensor fixed on your setup? Fine adjustment of the trigger wheel generally isn't an issue as the sensor mount is used for fine adjustment

On 12th Nov, 2009 Paul S said:

I think Gary OS has taken over my role as the forum smart arse *happy*


On 30th Apr, 2010 Rod S said:
Gary's description is best


hario

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I made a bracket attaching to the timing cover like normal but i thought i have to attach the wheel and sensor in place then move the wheel so that the missing tooth is exactly 90 degrees away from the sensor, the fenton brackets dont seem to be adjustable..
I am a nocturnal recluse as well man, need to get laid! shit.


GaryOS

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Formally spanner181187

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Ah, I forgot about Fenton's brackets. There must be an easy solution that to it. By knocking a tooth off you could get it to + or - 5 degrees of the required 90 degrees. So do you just compensate for this in the map?

P.S. only laying I do now is on a fucking creeper board :$

On 12th Nov, 2009 Paul S said:

I think Gary OS has taken over my role as the forum smart arse *happy*


On 30th Apr, 2010 Rod S said:
Gary's description is best


hario

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hahahahaa.

Yeah but im thinking if i download other peoples 998 turbo maps it would be beneficial if i can just run them straight away rather than having to input the degree error into each point on each map everytime i use another one?
Havent bought the ecu or looked at the software yet so flying blind at this point..


hario

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So if i just use a pulley and trigger wheel bolted to the crank i can rotate the wheel to exactly the right point then tighten the bolt+locktite+possibly dowel them together?


miniboo

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with the new software you can input the degree of error offset into a seperate table and it adds it to all cells automatically


joeybaby83

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as above, you can use the maps straight off, simply 'trim' the advance values

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"



Joe C

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on the megasquirt there is a "trim" so you can set the advance to a fixed 10deg whack a strobe on, and adjust it so the spark is in the right place.

I would have thought ists on the jolt too?

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/



metroturbo

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All October 84 onwards metros were fitted with vented discs. Prior to that, it was only the turbo that had them.


On 27th Dec, 2008 Rod S said:

The way Leyland/Rover used to use up parts is hard to explain.... My '83 1275 MG Metro doner had solid front discs whereas my son's '84 998 City "E" doner had vented !!!!


hario

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Senior Member




On 3rd Jan, 2009 metroturbo said:
All October 84 onwards metros were fitted with vented discs. Prior to that, it was only the turbo that had them.


On 27th Dec, 2008 Rod S said:

The way Leyland/Rover used to use up parts is hard to explain.... My '83 1275 MG Metro doner had solid front discs whereas my son's '84 998 City "E" doner had vented !!!!


998's where never fitted with vented type.
I had drums and converted to vented all by my self, but none of this is hardly relevent here is it..?
No.


joeybaby83

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yes they did, the last 998 metro i broke had vented

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"



joeybaby83

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no metro ever had drums, not on the front anyhow??

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"



Rod S

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On 6th Jan, 2009 hario said:

998's where never fitted with vented type.
I had drums and converted to vented all by my self, but none of this is hardly relevent here is it..?
No.


Agreed - I was only making the point that I thought the only reason the late 998s had the harmonic damper was that Leyland were using up parts (like the use of vented disks on the last of the low spec models). The early 998s certainly did not have damper pulleys - none of the ones I've worked on anyway...

Although Vizard is primarily about Normally Aspirated, I don't think it makes any difference - the damper is fitted to the 1275 crank because the first harmonic frequency is well known to be within the normal operating (rev) range of the 1275 engine. From memory I think the first harmonic frequency of the 998 crank is above "normal" RPMs.

Whether the engine is turbocharged or not won't change the first harmonic, it's a physical attribute of the crank/flywheel/clutch/pulley assembly. Changing flywheels (to lightweight etc.) or any other modifications to the whole assembly, however, will change the frequency, but you won't know what to. Provided you operate below the harmonic, increased torque will make no difference to that failure mode but if you operate within the harmonic frequency, increased torque will reduce fatigue life.

So, on balance, if you have one.... I personally would fit it, especially if you use high revs a lot.

And they are very easy to fit a trigger wheel to, or have the teeth machined in direct (the Tom Fenton way) which you can't do with a plain pulley.

Edited by Rod S on 7th Jan, 2009.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

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